you can't even start to imagine how much of a relief this is yes indeed, this is a great site with great people.


Thanks again!

 

My 2002 Escape XLT just hit 94,000 miles and I brought it in for it's first tune up. I got a quote of $350 from a local (includes plugs, fuel filter, air filter and labor).

Does this sound a bit high or is $350 an average price.

 

not so much considering just to change the spark plugs you have to assume at the very least 1h worth of work (plus the plugs themselves).

If you want to do the plugs yourself, you can probably save 100-150$

 

Did mine on an '01 3.0 a month or so ago, great directions, easy to follow! Only addition is to remove the hard plastic vaccuum line from the intake hose that runs behind the intake ports, it gets in the way of re-assembly of the intake itself. I broke mine and had to field splice it with duct tape and a bic pen shaft...it worked too!

I used generic platinum tipped plugs. Seems to run as well as I remember and got 1-2 mpg back. I took 4 hours including the 45 mins to figure out what I broke and splice it.

 

I used bosch plugs in my '03 3.0 and as mentionned in many threads, I have a rough idle. But anything over 1 krpm is smoother and the mpg is better (plugs where only about 50,000 miles)

 

i did my 01's in 2 hours and used autolite double platinums straight by your directions thank you!

 

You're welcome

 

I replaced the plugs on Gfriend's. Wish i had gone ahead and dug down a little deeper and pulled the lower intake manafold and replaced the PCV at the same time. I didn't and now am looking at going thru the process again, just to get at the PCV.

 

Thanks to racerguy for a great write up. Changed my plugs and intake gaskets in less than 2 hours. Your instructions were right on. Saved me some serious green.

 

You're welcome

 

followed your instructions to the tee. truck ran fine for a day and now will not start. WHAT HAPPENED?

 

I am getting ready to change the plugs in my 05 Escape I4 with 85K miles on it. I had to order the plugs being that nobody had them in stock. I went ahead and spent the extra $$ and got the Bosch IR Fusions being that Bosch has a $2/per plug rebate through the end of the year. The question that I have is... is the torque specs for the plugs 11 ft/lbs for the I4? I know it is for the v6. Also, those of you that place anti-sieze on the threads.... DON'T USE the Graphite or Copper anti-sieze!!!! ONLY USE THE NICKLE ANTI-SIEZE and make sure that you clean the COPs and place DIE-Electric Grease liberaly inside the boot and around the seal to help keep moisture out.

One more question... is the spark plug socket size a 9/16 or what? I have change my plugs on my 04 F150 5.4L 3-valve, 4 times, 160K and still going.

 

The shop manual says 11 ft. lb. for the 2.3L.
Sure you want to use Bosch plugs? I just have never had any luck with them.
I much prefer Motorcraft which your local dealer should keep in stock.
The plugs use a 5/8" socket.

 

you people are crazy. the spark plugs are made so hard to get to, that obviously it isn't meant for the typical home mechanic to work on themselves. you are supposed to let the dealer do everything for you. the prices they charge are justifiable.

my attempt at sarcasm. makes no sense why they design these engine the way they do, other than to scare alot of people away from doing their own maintenance. but it is not just ford.
the new vw bugs. if you disconnect the battery or it goes dead, once you get a new battery you have to take it back to the dealer to get them to set the codes for it to run correctly. to get to the battery, you have to remove a tire, part of the wheelwell, etc. headlight assemblies are the same mess to work on too.

 

What do you do if the engine light comes on after replacing the plugs?