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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

How do you know if the radius arm bushings are worn out?

 
  #16  
Old 01-18-2006, 10:48 AM
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You also need lock washers and nuts.
 
  #17  
Old 01-18-2006, 11:22 AM
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Ok, so the bolt goes thru the hole, and the washer/nut on the other/side! ok, now I get it.
 
  #18  
Old 01-18-2006, 11:43 AM
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Before removing any raduis arm bushing, use jack stand on frame to support the truck. Soak nuts and bolts thread with a good quality rust penetrator.

Originally Posted by C. Lee Colbert
At least if they were bolted on, I could do it...but with rivets...so I grind off, (or how about air chisel?) the rivet head, pull down the arm,
I have used a 4 inch grinder with a new grinding wheel or a welding torch to Grind down or burn out the round head of the rivet, then, remove the nuts and bolts holding the raduis arm bracket. Loosen the 1 1/8 inch nut holding the raduis arm and bushing. The remove the raduis arm bracket. Then pop out the rivet.
Originally Posted by C. Lee Colbert
replace the bushings, (with POLY!) and use bolts to re-install the arm brackets?
Use a Grade 8 bolt, flat washer, lock washer with nut. Take the rivet to the part store to match up the bolt.
Originally Posted by C. Lee Colbert
Almost sounds too easy...any drilling a pilot hole for the bolts? and tapping?
No pilot hole or tapping is required.

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  #19  
Old 01-18-2006, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1975Ford
Before removing any raduis arm bushing, use jack stand on frame to support the truck. Soak nuts and bolts thread with a good quality rust penetrator.
Using jackstands is definitely a good safety measure, but since the radius arm doesnt support any weight you dont even need to jack the truck up, unless your going to drop the Ibeam too...i can see how removing some weight off the wheel would be beneficial though, by making the wheel easier to move forward...
Originally Posted by 1975Ford
I have used a 4 inch grinder with a new grinding wheel or a welding torch to Grind down or burn out the round head of the rivet.
When i removed the rivots on the rear spring hangers of my 4x4, i fought with grinders and air ratchets and only got frustraded with it...i ended up calling my friend to bring his torch set...at first we blasted through the rivots but chewed the holes up in the process, we found that the trick is to heat the whole rivot up bright red and knock it out with a punch from behind...the rest of them popped right out and left the holes clean and unscarred....torching the radius arm rivots will be a little trickier to get behind the rivots..plus you have to be aware of the location of the fuel line...
 
  #20  
Old 01-18-2006, 11:47 PM
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And my leaking gas tank!!
 
  #21  
Old 01-19-2006, 09:07 AM
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Be very careful with a gas tank leak, one false move and "KABOOM". If the gas tank is a good shape and has very few leaks. The tank can be fixed with JB Weld. Make sure the area on tank is dry, then sand the area around the leak, clean area again, and then put the JB Weld, Let the JB weld cure for about 15 hours.
 
  #22  
Old 01-20-2006, 05:57 PM
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Take a look at my radius arm bushings in my gallery. From what I have read from all of you, I think my bushings have been replaced once already. There is no rivet that I can see. It looks like all I have to do is remove the nut and replace the bushings. Do the bushings look cracked enough to need replaced?
 

Last edited by BigShelby; 01-20-2006 at 06:19 PM.
  #23  
Old 01-20-2006, 06:20 PM
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the link isnt working....if your talking about the large nut on the end of the arm, you wont be able to get the arm all the way out of the hole when you remove that nut because the Ibeams hit and there isnt enough clearance to do it that way....the rivots we are talking about hold the bracket the arm is attatched to, to the frame...
 
  #24  
Old 01-20-2006, 06:56 PM
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Link to gallery is working now.
 
  #25  
Old 01-20-2006, 09:01 PM
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those bushings are old, but dont really look worn out completely....when mine started clunking they were in ALOT worse shape than that...but its still a good idea to replace them anyways.....have you looked at your shock bushings?? sometimes those wear out and will make similar noises....BTW, in both of those RA pics you can see the factory frame rivots right above the large nut.....
 
  #26  
Old 01-20-2006, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by C. Lee Colbert
I want to make sure I understand this, when removing the rivets, is there a hole to screw the bolts into? And what about threads, or are we to use a self threading bolt?
The hole from where the rivets came from are not threaded. Just get a grade 8 bolt (fine thread) that is long enough to go all the way from the bracket , threw the frame to the inside of the framerail, install a nut and tighten it down. repeat for the other rivet holes.good luck...DAHMER
 
  #27  
Old 01-21-2006, 07:27 AM
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have you looked at your shock bushings?? sometimes those wear out and will make similar noises..
I installed new shocks this summer. The noise I,m hearing was there before and after the shocks were installed. So if my radius arm bushings aren't that bad looking then perhaps that's not what is making the noise? It almost sounds as if something might be binding or metal on metal but everything looks normal and the truck drives good.

Any ideas?
 
  #28  
Old 01-22-2006, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BigShelby
It almost sounds as if something might be binding or metal on metal but everything looks normal and the truck drives good.

Any ideas?
is this only when you turn?? if thats the case then try greasing your kingpins(if they take any grease that is)......if thats not what your talking about, like stated before, the Ibeam bushings could be shot, you should look up under there also....
 
  #29  
Old 01-22-2006, 05:05 PM
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It's not only when I turn but it will occur if you are going 0-5-10-20 mph and you turn the wheel left then right or right then left. If I go straight over terrain, such as through a field, just the unevenness will make the same noise.

I'll bet it's the I-Beam bushing because I can't think of anything else. Kingpins are greased good.

What's involved with replacing the I-Beam bushing? Do you have to dismantle the radius arms?
 
  #30  
Old 09-12-2016, 01:34 PM
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Prblem has occurred!

Originally Posted by oldhalftons View Post
they'll clunk before they are missing
if they are cracked replace them. they wear on the top, if they wear to much the holes in the frame mount will start to oval out.
How do i fix this "ovaled out" condition .you would be rhe first source online that i can find that even mentions this happening
 

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