Positive air inlet pessure for NA 7.3 IDI
#1
Positive air inlet pessure for NA 7.3 IDI
FYI, I built a ram air scoop on the LH side of the rad, sealed up the gaps around the head light molding, removed the baffle seal in front of the plastic inlet duct along the grill frame (plus cut out some plastic), and used rubber baffleing to create an air box when the hood is closed. The result is positive air pressure at the air duct inlet. I used a manometer to test drive this mod, and went from about 1" of water pressure to 2" + at 50 mph. I haven't had the chance to try it out at highway speed for a long haul, but just driving around town I've noticed more power, quicker up shifts, and town driving in higher gear (automatic) with lower RPMs, so I hope the milage kicks up a notch as well. If any one is interested I have pictures I can e-mail, or let me know how to post them.(Click Here to find out why email addresses are removed from posts.)
Last edited by KJLYPW; 01-14-2006 at 05:25 PM.
#4
The rain is no worst than what normally get sucked up off the road. My inlet deflector behind the grill gets hit by the water which runs down to the bottom with a drain hole, the airmass has to change direction to go up under the hood, change direction again to go into the plastic duct, so this doesnt seem to be a problem. PS I live on the west coast of B.C. Canada, so I drive in lots of rain.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Daves scoop is definitely more positve, but with my 93 the rad support frame is in this position, and airconditioning hoses behind make routing a 4" duct tricky, (but not impossible). I figure my mod is a good compromise without altering anything of structural significance. Plus I opened up the plastic grill opening by about 1" without it affecting the grills appearance too radically.
#9
The scoop is all custom made, I used to do duct fabrication.
No off the shelf duct products fit where it needs to go.
Also I had to work aroud the AC lines and through the radiator support without cutting anything of major structural importance.
Trim the flanges on the radiator, remove the radiator support and fabricate a new one that mounts on the top of the radiator shell.
I also had to clear the power steering pump on the inside with the duct work.
And yes this force feeds my turbo with about 3 PSI pressure at 70 MPH or 2600 RPM.
Got rid of all the smashed down plastic duct work and the obstructions in front of the original intake.
Also went from a vacuum to positive pressure between the air filter and turbo.
Dropped the EGT's about 300 degrees.
No off the shelf duct products fit where it needs to go.
Also I had to work aroud the AC lines and through the radiator support without cutting anything of major structural importance.
Trim the flanges on the radiator, remove the radiator support and fabricate a new one that mounts on the top of the radiator shell.
I also had to clear the power steering pump on the inside with the duct work.
And yes this force feeds my turbo with about 3 PSI pressure at 70 MPH or 2600 RPM.
Got rid of all the smashed down plastic duct work and the obstructions in front of the original intake.
Also went from a vacuum to positive pressure between the air filter and turbo.
Dropped the EGT's about 300 degrees.
#12
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eallanboggs
2004 - 2008 F150
14
12-20-2021 06:09 PM
kr98664
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
06-25-2017 10:32 PM
petepetersen
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
01-29-2016 08:37 PM