Gasket quality difference?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 278
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From: Lewisville, NC
Gasket quality difference?
I'll be putting NOS 8RT heads back on Elvis and thinking about pulling the intake to check the valves while I'm there.
1. How much difference is there in the quality of head gaskets by manufacturer? I know I don't want old stock brittle gaskets, but are pricier sets like Felpro worth the price difference?
2. How much trouble (assuming I can weld up a valve spring compressor) is it to pull the valves? I've heard everything from push fit to slide hammer time. I've had some experience in the old "while I'm in there..." boondoggle, but as long as I've got the heads off... How much trouble can I get into?
-Scott
1. How much difference is there in the quality of head gaskets by manufacturer? I know I don't want old stock brittle gaskets, but are pricier sets like Felpro worth the price difference?
2. How much trouble (assuming I can weld up a valve spring compressor) is it to pull the valves? I've heard everything from push fit to slide hammer time. I've had some experience in the old "while I'm in there..." boondoggle, but as long as I've got the heads off... How much trouble can I get into?
-Scott
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,772
Likes: 550
From: Kalispell, MT
The valves are easy - toughest part is finding room to use a std valve spring compressor. First set I did I used a carpenter's pry bar, but I don't recommend it.
Just don't lose the keepers - plug the oil drain holes in the valve chest before you start and remember to remove the plugging material before you close it back up.
The Felpro gaskets are what you want to use. About $25-28 each at NAPA or check into a rebuild kit from Red's Headers or Patrick's Antique Auto parts (both are online).
Use aluminum spray paint on both sides of the head gasket when you put it together. I don't use anything on the intake gasket - keep it dry and you can use it over.
Just don't lose the keepers - plug the oil drain holes in the valve chest before you start and remember to remove the plugging material before you close it back up.
The Felpro gaskets are what you want to use. About $25-28 each at NAPA or check into a rebuild kit from Red's Headers or Patrick's Antique Auto parts (both are online).
Use aluminum spray paint on both sides of the head gasket when you put it together. I don't use anything on the intake gasket - keep it dry and you can use it over.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Felpro and Victor Reinz gasket sets use the exact same head gaskets these days; they share the manufacture of them because of the low volume. I'm using the VR set, no problems.
Usually the tough valves to get out are the intakes, which have the sealing rings on the guides. Of course, the exhausts have crud burned onto them, so they aren't any treat either. If you are patient and soak everything with a REAL PENETRATING OIL not WD-40, it helps a lot.
Not sure what you mean about welding up a valve compressor. A bar is what's needed, sort of a pickle fork. You remove the valves, guides, springs, keepers, etc all as a unit after pulling the guide retainer out, by pulling the guide down against spring pressure with the pry bar. I used a big screwdriver, a long screwdriver-like pry bar I got at Harbor Freight for $5, and a tire iron at various points. If I were to do it again, I'd just buy the "official" Ford tool. They are on eBay, at various flathead vendors, etc. for about $25 as I recall. The HF screwdriver/pry bar was the next best thing. Once you understand the process, you can do all of them in an hour. (Honest!)
"While you're in there" --- clean, clean, clean! And if it's real cruddy, consider pulling the engine to clean it all. Measure your bores, check the condition of the valve seats, and most importantly, check for the dreaded "fatal cracks".
Usually the tough valves to get out are the intakes, which have the sealing rings on the guides. Of course, the exhausts have crud burned onto them, so they aren't any treat either. If you are patient and soak everything with a REAL PENETRATING OIL not WD-40, it helps a lot.
Not sure what you mean about welding up a valve compressor. A bar is what's needed, sort of a pickle fork. You remove the valves, guides, springs, keepers, etc all as a unit after pulling the guide retainer out, by pulling the guide down against spring pressure with the pry bar. I used a big screwdriver, a long screwdriver-like pry bar I got at Harbor Freight for $5, and a tire iron at various points. If I were to do it again, I'd just buy the "official" Ford tool. They are on eBay, at various flathead vendors, etc. for about $25 as I recall. The HF screwdriver/pry bar was the next best thing. Once you understand the process, you can do all of them in an hour. (Honest!)
"While you're in there" --- clean, clean, clean! And if it's real cruddy, consider pulling the engine to clean it all. Measure your bores, check the condition of the valve seats, and most importantly, check for the dreaded "fatal cracks".
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Jan 5, 2006 at 10:35 PM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 890
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From: New York
I can't speak on the subject of flathead head gaskets specifically, but I've gone through 3 intake manifold gaskets on my 223 I6, and the Fel-Pro gasket for that application was of significantly better quality.
