I need to read the post's better, since I just repeated Ruby's post.
Sigh...

 

Interesting stuff. Where did you come across this information?

The reason I am curious is the 4.0L OHV is also one of the few engines that Ford has hesitated to call for 5W-20 in the crankcase. I'm wondering if the reasons are similar.

 

I cannot remember the link but that information was in one of the ford memos put out to the dealers back in 2001 when they made the switch. I will look through my documents to see if I saved a copy. I do remember memtion of the oil pump on the 4.0v6
Dan

 

if you can tell me how to post a word doc. I found I had saved it to my pc. it .ay also still be posted on this site as I downloaded it from hear. I think it was in the oil forum. the doc is called "fordoilfaq" and was published in 2001.
Dan

 

Thanks Dan, I found the link after some Googling: http://www.dantheoilman.com/fordoilfaq.doc

Here's the relevant portion:
The article doesn't make a any distinctions between the OHV and the SOHC, but I don't think it's unreasonable to assume that in both cases there are oil flow-related issues to contend with.

Like I said, interesting stuff.

 

How odd. One would think that any engine capable of pumping a non-synthetic gob of glue at a -20* cold start would just love a thinner cold-cranking oil. This is also a posting that is six years old. At over 175,000mi, I'm not worried about my warranty. I'm going to 5w20 on my next oil change in my '94 Mazda B-4000.
Winter cometh...
as did a foot of wet snow last Tuesday...

"Q. What durability tests have been done on this new grade of oil in excess of the warranty period?
A: Motorcraft 5W-20 was tested in the Arizona and Nevada desert heat, in Expeditions and Navigators loaded down to the max trailer towing capacity for up to 250,000 miles with extended drain intervals (15,000 miles). It was also tested in a fleet of taxis for stop-and-go testing and in the extreme colds of MinnesotA. In all cases, Motorcraft 5W-20 performed exceptionally with no oil-related failures."
Note, though, that the oil tested was a semi-synthetic.
ymmv

 

After thinking about it, maybe it's more about oil pressure as it relates to oil flow (and such other things as bearing clearances, the size of oil galleries/passages, etc).

 

My old Haynes manual covering a '66 MG Mk2 Midget 1098cc said that low oil pressure at 'tickover' [idleing] was no cause for concern. It was only at higher RPM that there was a reason to worry. I only ran Castrol GTX 20w50. It should be noted that it had an oil pressure relief valve to keep the oil from blowing all the seals out. It seems that the higher the RPM the higher the pressure you need [to pump oil faster] up to a certain point. It is the actual flow of oil, which acts as both a lubricant AND a coolant that counts. It's not 4lb of oil pressure at 600 rpm that worries me as much as the same at 3000rpm. That says that my engine is on its last legs.
In the future, with even slicker oils, even this won't be a rule of thumb anymore, if it still even holds true today.

 

in the case of the 4.0 V6 it must be a serious problem or Ford would have done wwwwwwhat ever needed to run the 5w20 in it.

I am a believer in the 5w20 I run it on our 05 escape 2.3 four and in my 99 ranger's 2.5 four
it really seems to take abuse and the motorcraft syn blend is a great buy.

 

Bazzman if you want a lighter oil you should run a 0W30 not a 5W20. An amusing oil comment I tried Amsoil 5w40 (it was free) was not all that happy so changed back to the recommended weight 10W30 in Castrol Syntec and as my truck needs re-gearing and has 33" tires I noticed a small but measurable increase in power @ full throttle up the same hill as compared to the 5w40.

 

I have a ton of Yamalube 10/50 just wondering if that would not go well with my 3.0 v6 2004 ranger?

 

i would not use it. it is forulated for wet clutches and way too thick.

 

Cool thanks that is what i was thinking to cause it keeps the gearbox lubed on my bike.

 

I have heard the manual says 5w30 but 10w40 if hotter environment. I live in lake Elsinore where it gets up to 100° quite frequently. So which one and what is the best filter to go along with it?

 

jbbgarbe, I would go with the 10W40 in Elsinore. You rarely get cold enough for frost to form, so 99% of the driving is in the temp range where that is proper to use. Back when that engine was put together, 10WXX was 'the' starting point. I don't remember any 0W or 5W oils, but that doesn't mean they didn't exist back then. I use 10W30, 10W40, and 20W40 or 50 in my old Ranger, depending on season and what I have on the shelf. Sometimes I will do a 10W change, and then add some 20W after some oil has been consumed. The specified fill is 6 quarts on the stamped oil pan Limas, but I found that 5 quarts worked well, as the 6th quart would be eaten by the engine real quick. Five got it on the stick in the 'safe' range, and I don't like to overfill, so I do 5.
The local service shop that specializes in Ford products will put 5W20 synthetic blend in because that is what their bulk oil dispenser is filled with. I had no problems when it was put in the sump, but I don't know if it is recommended for the '85 model {or anything that old...}, so at home, I don't use it.
tom