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Difficulty; Replacing Power Window Motor Gear

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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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Difficulty; Replacing Power Window Motor Gear

My power window on the driver's side hardly ever comes up on its own. I often times have to "tug" on the window to get it to finally catch, then continue on its way to the top of the door.

After it reaches the top, if I keep the button held it, it "jumps" until you let out. The local parts store told me that it was the power window motor gear, so I bought one. $20 a pop is kinda high for a little 'ol plastic gear if you ask me...

Anyway, I plan on tackling this repair myself. I have had the door panels completely off before to install my new stereo speakers, but nothing further than that. If anyone could guide me through this installation, I would be thankful.

Nightrain
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:16 AM
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What little I know

Since nobody has replied, I will offer what I know about P/W. I worked in salvage yards for years but that ended in 1989 so things probally changed a bit. I would say the clicking sound is the gear, but not nessasaryily a bad tooth on it.
While you have the door panels off, run the window up and down fully and make sure there is no tracking off or loose/ Meaning that the track the window runs on could have worked its way loose from the door or even the motor itself and that may be your only problem. Also, try to lube every thing you can from pivot points to the inside of the window track its self. Use white grease on the pivot parts.
On the older vehicles you had to drill out the rivets and use bolts to reinstall, something you dont find out till you tear into it, and be very carefull when you have your fingers inside that door at all times as it is spring loaded and lot of people have lost or nearly lost a finger due to the spring action of the window mecanisim (SP). If you dont have one, see if you can get access to a manuel for this operation because of the power of the spring alone.
I think when the the window is down is when the spring is loaded. It has been a very long time since I have done one of these, so just keep in mind what I have said and do NOT use this as rule of thumb Good luck and let us know how it turned out please.
 

Last edited by raysvan; Dec 18, 2005 at 08:25 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:19 AM
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Thanks for the reply, raysvan.

I have a Haynes manual for my truck laying around here somewhere. If only I could find it...

Nightrain
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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No problem at all. I waited to post as I am kind of new to the Ford truck scene as I have drove Jeeps and Chevys most of the time. I drive a 18 wheeler for a living and seldom drive any of my personal vehicles.
If you dont mind me asking, what part of Tennessee are you from, I am East of Knoxville in a town called Morristown. I am just curious.
 

Last edited by raysvan; Dec 18, 2005 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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Well, we're glad you finally ended up in a Ford!

Enjoy that rig, and keep the rubber-side down. I'm 10-10 on the side, fellow-Ford buddy.

Nightrain
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 10:05 AM
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What you have to do is drill holes over the bolts that hold the motor to the door panel that will allow you to get a socket wrench on them. There are dimples in the door panel where you drill. The motor is held on by three bolts. When these are removed, the motor and the gear assembly comes out after you unplug the wires. The gears you will replace are under the small plate on the motor/gear assembly. If I remember correctly it is attached by three small screws. Removing the plate will expose the gears you need to replace. Slide the old one off the shaft, clean out all the old grease and broken pieces of plastic, and install the new one. There is a small rubber "O" ring on the shaft that you also replace. Add new grease, which should be included in the gear kit you bought and replace the small plate. Now reconnect the wires, bolt the motor back into place, and your windows should work good as new. Good Luck.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 02:12 PM
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Thanks for your post, GWall.

I got all of what you're saying, except for one thing... When you said to drill out those "dimples" in the door panel, that releases the motor, correct? Then, I just put bolts in those holes where I drilled out when I reinstall the motor? Sorry that I'm so dense... lol.

BTW, does the window need to be up or down, or does it matter?

Thanks again!

Nightrain
 

Last edited by Nightrain; Dec 18, 2005 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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The motor is held to the door panel with bolts already. You will reuse the same ones to reinstall it. The outer wall of the door panel has indentations, dimples that look like they have been made with a sharp punch over the heads of each bolt. Drill them out with a hole large enough for a 5/16 socket to go inside. Then you can remove the three bolts and the motor/gear unit comes right out. There's really not much to it, once you get the hang of it. Good Luck.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 04:50 PM
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BTW...as I recall it doesn't matter if the window is up or down. Just be careful with the glass. If it is up it may come sliding down when you remove the motor.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 07:21 PM
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Dolly Dimples

Originally Posted by Nightrain
Thanks for your post, GWall.

I got all of what you're saying, except for one thing... When you said to drill out those "dimples" in the door panel, that releases the motor, correct? Then, I just put bolts in those holes where I drilled out when I reinstall the motor? Sorry that I'm so dense... lol.

Nightrain
Drilling out the dimples merely gives you access to the machine screws that hold the motor assembly to the window lift. Dittoes on the "be careful with that spring"! The least tension is on the spring when the window is in the "up" position.

Regarding the $20 cost for the rebuild kit: So long as the gear is still good (which it usually is) you can substitute short lengths of polyethylene tubing (available at any hardware or home improvement store). Prior to attempting the fix, disassemble and clean all parts so that you do not leave unwanted chunks inside the gearbox that can undo your handiwork.

You will need 3 pieces each of 3 different sizes (sorry I do not know the exact sizes); but each of the 3 different sizes fit one inside the other to replace each of the 3 nylon "bullets" in the commercially sold kits. One other part is needed to complete this "poor man's" fix: Insert a length of steel rod (cut-off drill bit or nonthreaded stock) into each of the smallest of the poly tubing pieces in order to give the replacement parts the same rigidity as the originals. Remember to also properly relube the gear drive assembly, working it into all gear teeth prior to re-installing the gearbox cover.

I have used this fix several times and found it to be every bit as serviceable as the more expensive alternative; and have not had one fail yet!

dn.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Ahh, okay. I get it now.

Thanks for the post, donnor.

Too bad I've already bought the gear... I would've loved to have tried that.

Nightrain
 

Last edited by Nightrain; Dec 18, 2005 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:27 PM
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The Past is Prologue...

Originally Posted by Nightrain
Ahh, okay. I get it now.

Thanks for the post, donnor.

Too bad I've already bought the gear... I would've loved to have tried that.

Nightrain
That's ok - keep driving Fords & you are sure to have another opportunity to do this repair again sometime!

dn.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:00 AM
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Swah-eet!

Nightrain
 
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