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summit has them. I think this is their cheapest one SUM-G1435
I'd think any performance auto parts place would have them. Usually the threaded part is a pretty standard size.
Every time I walk down those aisles, I like to let out a nice big juicy fart for the import boys to walk into. As a matter of fact, I could really go for that right about now.
I was gonna mention that I'd bought them on ebay and then saw you already found them there. I bought several but then decided to go with the Carling Contura switches so they'd match my ARB switches, light up and all bling like. That's good to know that AutoZone carries this kind of stuff, I'll check them out.
EDIT Went to AutoZone to look at the switches but there was a foul smell in there. It was too nausiating to bare so I had to leave.
I bought 2 on ebay last night, $15.46 total after shipping, not bad. They are yellow instead of red, but I can get used to it. When they come in the mail i'll take one of the switches out and go find another one to go with the switch cover I already have.
A 30amp switch is enough to run 2 100watt Daylighters off of, right? I know its enough to run my 55watt Halogen backup lights with.
2 100 watt lights should only be about 15 amps of current at 14 volts, so technically you could run 4 through one 30 amp switch. I prefer to run relays so I don't have massive current running long distances through my dash. If you are interested, I can send you wiring diagrams and stuff showing how to wire a fuse block with relays so there is only a few milliamps of current through the switch. Makes the headlights and aux lights brighter if there is shorter wire runs too.
Or you can just drive over here sometime and I can do all the wiring stuff at once, with soldered joints and waterproof heat shrink tubing protecting everything. I did the lights on my pathy that way and turned out really good. It's nice to have the navy spend thousands of dollars training me how to wire my truck to NASA standards!
on edit: to figure out current, power (watts), or voltage, use the formula P=IE where P=Power, I=current, and E=voltage, rearrange the equation mathmatically to solve for whatever you are looking for. Its as easy as pie!
Last edited by hotrod_ta; Dec 16, 2005 at 03:05 PM.
I second the relays. I've got a ton of them running in my truck because I hate having all that current in the cab. One wire shorts out and you can have the whole mess catch on fire.
Dont forget the fuses either! I like running a seperate fuse box for all teh accessories to make it easier and not have to trace wiring to find the goofy inline ones.
just bought a marine 12 ckt 100A fuse box for about 35 bux, all the power you would ever need and twice the convenience.
I would be happy to make you up a relay and fuse box combo on an aluminum bracket for the cost of the parts, then all you have to do is hook up your tuner switches and one positive wire to the battery and bling bling baby!
I can mock it up on my truck and it should match yours perfectly, just tell me where you want it and wether or not you want aluminum or stainless brackets. I have connections...