Time, money, and lift equipment *PLEASE RESPOND*
#1
12-13-2005, 06:50 PM
Time, money, and lift equipment *PLEASE RESPOND*
Ok, folks, I'm attempting to put some REAL information together regarding the time and expense of installing the different types of lift equipment available. We all have opinions on body lifts, suspension lifts and the "how to" portion of these projects. I am going to try to put together some real numbers regarding time and money actually consumed when installing a lift on your own.
I need to know...
1) What type of lift you installed. Suspension or body... if both, separate the following info for each lift type. If it was a suspension lift, what did it include? Blocks, add-a-leafs, full springs? Did you need to add a leveling kit to the front? With either type of lift were additional components needed like longer brake lines or brackets to relocate the radiator?
2) The total number of hours, days, etc. the project required from start to finish. This means from the time the first bolt was loosened to the time when you were satisfied that the lift was complete. If you were caught needing an additional part that you had to wait for include the delay time. If you waited another month to buy the larger size tires after the lift was on because the money wasn't there, please DO NOT include that.
3 A dollar amount that covers the ENTIRE cost of the project up to and including incidental expenses for alignments, lengthening of linkages and driveshafts, additional parts for relocating radiators, cost of shocks, etc. In other words the total amount required to make the truck driveable in your mind again and looking/handling like you set out to make it when the project began.
I need to know...
1) What type of lift you installed. Suspension or body... if both, separate the following info for each lift type. If it was a suspension lift, what did it include? Blocks, add-a-leafs, full springs? Did you need to add a leveling kit to the front? With either type of lift were additional components needed like longer brake lines or brackets to relocate the radiator?
2) The total number of hours, days, etc. the project required from start to finish. This means from the time the first bolt was loosened to the time when you were satisfied that the lift was complete. If you were caught needing an additional part that you had to wait for include the delay time. If you waited another month to buy the larger size tires after the lift was on because the money wasn't there, please DO NOT include that.
3 A dollar amount that covers the ENTIRE cost of the project up to and including incidental expenses for alignments, lengthening of linkages and driveshafts, additional parts for relocating radiators, cost of shocks, etc. In other words the total amount required to make the truck driveable in your mind again and looking/handling like you set out to make it when the project began.
#2
12-13-2005, 11:43 PM
Hello,
I put the Superlift 4" lift kit on mine. I opted for the Superrunner extended radius arms option. and rear lift blocks for now. I ordered the "longer brake lines" as recommended by Superlift, I put that term in quotes 'cause they are the same length as the factory lines. Go figure huh. I put them on anyways because I didn't know how old the other ones were. When I got the kit 4 Superlift shocks were included. It also included drop down brakets for the sway bars.
The install took longer than I expected approx. 1 month. I could have done it quicker but I had another vehicle to drive and I was working 60hrs a week at the time. The rear took two days to do because the locator holes in the blocks were too small. I had a local machine shop bore them to 3/4" to make sure they were properly aligned and I didn't have a bit that large. The front took awhile because I had to move the radius arm brackets back and drill new holes for them and the axle drop down brackets. I also needed some tools I didn't have: an angle drill to drill the holes in the crossmember for the drop down brackets and a large socket ( I forget the size) for the pitman arm. I also needed to fabricate a couple of brake lines because the old ones were so rusted that when I tried to replace the front brake hoses the lines snapped. Those were a pain because of the ABS system they had in '93. The ABS block was metric and hose ends are SAE. Routing the lines was also a major pain in the butt.
The cost of the lift kit, radius arms, and brake lines was $1200. The new tools came to about $270 ( 170 for the drill and 100 for the 3/4" drive socket and sliding "T" bar). The brake lines was about $20 and drilling out the blocks was another $10. So I figure I'm at roughly $1500 total.
I have yet to do an alignment with no ill effects yet. My truck had the dual shocks in front since my old shocks were wasted I didn't buy the extra two shocks ( I figures two new shocks would still be better than four shot ones), the kit only comes with four not six. That is one option I would opt for if I did it again what I didn't put into perspective was that off-road shocks are probally a little more forgiving than street ones and that might be why the truck seems a little more bouncy now. Or it might just be the higher center of gravity I'm experencing.
Well, I think thats all. Hope this helps,
Justin
Btw I have an '93 Bronco 5.8 E4OD XLT if that matters.
I put the Superlift 4" lift kit on mine. I opted for the Superrunner extended radius arms option. and rear lift blocks for now. I ordered the "longer brake lines" as recommended by Superlift, I put that term in quotes 'cause they are the same length as the factory lines. Go figure huh. I put them on anyways because I didn't know how old the other ones were. When I got the kit 4 Superlift shocks were included. It also included drop down brakets for the sway bars.
The install took longer than I expected approx. 1 month. I could have done it quicker but I had another vehicle to drive and I was working 60hrs a week at the time. The rear took two days to do because the locator holes in the blocks were too small. I had a local machine shop bore them to 3/4" to make sure they were properly aligned and I didn't have a bit that large. The front took awhile because I had to move the radius arm brackets back and drill new holes for them and the axle drop down brackets. I also needed some tools I didn't have: an angle drill to drill the holes in the crossmember for the drop down brackets and a large socket ( I forget the size) for the pitman arm. I also needed to fabricate a couple of brake lines because the old ones were so rusted that when I tried to replace the front brake hoses the lines snapped. Those were a pain because of the ABS system they had in '93. The ABS block was metric and hose ends are SAE. Routing the lines was also a major pain in the butt.
The cost of the lift kit, radius arms, and brake lines was $1200. The new tools came to about $270 ( 170 for the drill and 100 for the 3/4" drive socket and sliding "T" bar). The brake lines was about $20 and drilling out the blocks was another $10. So I figure I'm at roughly $1500 total.
I have yet to do an alignment with no ill effects yet. My truck had the dual shocks in front since my old shocks were wasted I didn't buy the extra two shocks ( I figures two new shocks would still be better than four shot ones), the kit only comes with four not six. That is one option I would opt for if I did it again what I didn't put into perspective was that off-road shocks are probally a little more forgiving than street ones and that might be why the truck seems a little more bouncy now. Or it might just be the higher center of gravity I'm experencing.
Well, I think thats all. Hope this helps,
Justin
Btw I have an '93 Bronco 5.8 E4OD XLT if that matters.
#3
12-14-2005, 10:30 AM
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#4
12-15-2005, 09:32 AM
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I put a 3" body lift on my 82 w/ the poly bushings from broncograveyard.
The lift cost about 80 bucks and the poly bushings cost about 130.
I took me about 3 days on and off to finish the work the hardest part was nocking out all the old body mount bushing, you know those press fit sleeves.
I cut and welded an extension for my t-case shifter and the kit came with a piece of metal to extend the tranny but mine had enough adjustment left in it.
The lift cost about 80 bucks and the poly bushings cost about 130.
I took me about 3 days on and off to finish the work the hardest part was nocking out all the old body mount bushing, you know those press fit sleeves.
I cut and welded an extension for my t-case shifter and the kit came with a piece of metal to extend the tranny but mine had enough adjustment left in it.
#5
12-15-2005, 09:35 PM
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In July of 2003, I had installed a Skyjacker 6" Class II suspension kit which came with:
Front- 6" longer/taller coil springs, dropped Pitman arm, axle pivot drop brackets, radius arm drop brackets (not used), tubular extended radius arms, 2 Hydro shocks, added 2 more for quad shock frontend. Used the stock radius arm brackets, relocated 14" aft with supplied Grade 8 bolts. Stock brake lines "relocated" by loosening the mounts in the spring tower to allow movement thru the holes.
Rear- 4.5" lifted leaf spring packs w/ poly bushings, 2 Hydro shocks, longer u-bolts and harware.
List price was $1325.00, plus $50 for 2 extra shocks.
I also purchased 4 35x12.50R15 Mud Kings mounted on 15x9 MT Classic rims. List price was $1150.00 for the set, later purchased a used 35" spare with rim for $20 from a local tire shop.
I had previously installed a master kit of Daystar poly bushings in the suspension and body mounts. Cost of that was $225.00, and took 4 days to install myself. This eased the lift kit install somewhat, as the only stubborn bolts were the radius arm studs on the axle beams and the lower coil spring mounts. These took 2 days to loosen, finally using a loooong cheater bar and 3/4" drive ratchet since no impact gun would budge them. I purchased the lift kit and tires/rims from a local 4WD shop, and had them install the kit with some direction from myself. Labor was $425 and took 5 days. Two weeks went by waiting on the extended radius arms to be delivered was the only delay.
After the kit was installed it was immediately driven to a nearby alignment shop. A new steering shaft was installed ($125) and alignment was $75. Due to the front sitting higher than the back and some tire rub in the rear, a 1" block was put in under the rear leaf packs to level the ride, $40.
Total driveout price from the shop was quoted at $2450.00 by ToughCountry Offroad, El Campo, TX
Front- 6" longer/taller coil springs, dropped Pitman arm, axle pivot drop brackets, radius arm drop brackets (not used), tubular extended radius arms, 2 Hydro shocks, added 2 more for quad shock frontend. Used the stock radius arm brackets, relocated 14" aft with supplied Grade 8 bolts. Stock brake lines "relocated" by loosening the mounts in the spring tower to allow movement thru the holes.
Rear- 4.5" lifted leaf spring packs w/ poly bushings, 2 Hydro shocks, longer u-bolts and harware.
List price was $1325.00, plus $50 for 2 extra shocks.
I also purchased 4 35x12.50R15 Mud Kings mounted on 15x9 MT Classic rims. List price was $1150.00 for the set, later purchased a used 35" spare with rim for $20 from a local tire shop.
I had previously installed a master kit of Daystar poly bushings in the suspension and body mounts. Cost of that was $225.00, and took 4 days to install myself. This eased the lift kit install somewhat, as the only stubborn bolts were the radius arm studs on the axle beams and the lower coil spring mounts. These took 2 days to loosen, finally using a loooong cheater bar and 3/4" drive ratchet since no impact gun would budge them. I purchased the lift kit and tires/rims from a local 4WD shop, and had them install the kit with some direction from myself. Labor was $425 and took 5 days. Two weeks went by waiting on the extended radius arms to be delivered was the only delay.
After the kit was installed it was immediately driven to a nearby alignment shop. A new steering shaft was installed ($125) and alignment was $75. Due to the front sitting higher than the back and some tire rub in the rear, a 1" block was put in under the rear leaf packs to level the ride, $40.
Total driveout price from the shop was quoted at $2450.00 by ToughCountry Offroad, El Campo, TX
Last edited by justshootme84; 12-15-2005 at 09:42 PM.
#6
12-18-2005, 11:10 AM
I installed a 6" Skyjacker system on my '79...no problem. The system came with 2 coil and 2 leaf springs, shocks, U-bolts, drop pitman arm, radius arm drop brackets and bushings. The system did not have the drop sway bar arms but the OEM's were easily lengthened. No driveshaft mods, front brake line is a little tight but certainly not in danger of breaking. The system was less than $700 with tax at the local 4wheelparts(no shipping $) and I did the install myself with hand tools, air tools, floor jacks, beer,etc...Probably took 18-20 hrs over three days to do the job and came with all instructions. I would suggest that you use a local 4x4 shop in case there is any problem with the components you recieve(I had one 4" and one 6" rear spring). Good luck!
#7
12-23-2005, 01:45 PM
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#8
12-24-2005, 05:18 PM
1)
Front suspension: Autofab 16" wheel travel kit. Extended radius arms with heims, stock beams modified for 4" of lift and reinforced, custom coil buckets with ride height adjusters, 4" lift coils self-built shock mounts, 2.5"x14" Fox shocks, Autofab limit straps, stock bump stops.
Rear suspension: (Also 16" of wheel travel) Autofab long travel leaf springs, Autofab 2-link kit, self-built upper shock mounts, Autofab limit straps, 2.5"x12" Sway-A-Way internal bypass shocks, stock bump stops.
2)
Total hours invested: Approximately 40.
3)
Total spent: Just over $9,000, including $3,000 for the Bronco.
Front suspension: Autofab 16" wheel travel kit. Extended radius arms with heims, stock beams modified for 4" of lift and reinforced, custom coil buckets with ride height adjusters, 4" lift coils self-built shock mounts, 2.5"x14" Fox shocks, Autofab limit straps, stock bump stops.
Rear suspension: (Also 16" of wheel travel) Autofab long travel leaf springs, Autofab 2-link kit, self-built upper shock mounts, Autofab limit straps, 2.5"x12" Sway-A-Way internal bypass shocks, stock bump stops.
2)
Total hours invested: Approximately 40.
3)
Total spent: Just over $9,000, including $3,000 for the Bronco.
Last edited by steveg3; 12-24-2005 at 05:20 PM.
#9
01-12-2006, 08:00 AM
Installed a 4 in Dick Cepek Suspension Lift on a 96 FSB.
The kit came with RA drop brackets, axle pivot brackets, springs, shocks and blocks. I realized before I started the lift that it didn't come with a drop pitman arm, that added about $40 to the $500 cost of the lift (not sure exactly how much, purchased for b-day by fiancee) Also need to purchase alignment cams for the upper ball joints, about $20 each.
Issues with the front - removing the rivets was a real PITA - I think I started with a sawzall, tried an angle grinder and a dremel, and a drill. Eventually burnt them out with an O-A torch. Pitman arm was also a trouble spot, broke 2 pullers, eventually got it off using a 3rd heavy duty puller and applying heat from above torch. Also, the shocks they gave me were horrible. They did not have enough absorbing power resulting in the springs bowing out and crushing the shocks, rendering them pretty much useless. I would recommened replacing them with Bilsteins, which I will be doing later this month.
Issues with the rear - centering hole in the blocks too small, had to be drilled out using a press.
IIRC the install took me about a week of working 6 hrs a night, working alone for the most part. Used typical hand tools, good assortment of air tools, multiple jacks and stands, a big breaker bar, BFH, OA torch, drill, drill press, cutting wheel, fire extinguisher, bandaids, and beer.
The kit came with RA drop brackets, axle pivot brackets, springs, shocks and blocks. I realized before I started the lift that it didn't come with a drop pitman arm, that added about $40 to the $500 cost of the lift (not sure exactly how much, purchased for b-day by fiancee) Also need to purchase alignment cams for the upper ball joints, about $20 each.
Issues with the front - removing the rivets was a real PITA - I think I started with a sawzall, tried an angle grinder and a dremel, and a drill. Eventually burnt them out with an O-A torch. Pitman arm was also a trouble spot, broke 2 pullers, eventually got it off using a 3rd heavy duty puller and applying heat from above torch. Also, the shocks they gave me were horrible. They did not have enough absorbing power resulting in the springs bowing out and crushing the shocks, rendering them pretty much useless. I would recommened replacing them with Bilsteins, which I will be doing later this month.
Issues with the rear - centering hole in the blocks too small, had to be drilled out using a press.
IIRC the install took me about a week of working 6 hrs a night, working alone for the most part. Used typical hand tools, good assortment of air tools, multiple jacks and stands, a big breaker bar, BFH, OA torch, drill, drill press, cutting wheel, fire extinguisher, bandaids, and beer.
#10
01-12-2006, 06:13 PM
[B]Hey greysteak92...It's been a month since you asked all your questions and you still haven't said what year Bronco your working with! Doing a little research on line for you, it seems that the straight axle lift (78-79) is cheaper and easier than the later IFF design. Count on spending at least $800 and do it yourself or spend 3 grand and have the shop do it, which ever guarantee you prefer. Either way get off the wallet and git-r-dun!
#11
01-12-2006, 09:38 PM
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This may not apply to GS92's guidelines on the typical lift. I recently purchased two solid axles, a Dana 44 and Dana 60 for $630.00 total cost. Material cost for solid tubing, plates and heim joints for a custom 4-link front and rear was just under $1000. I'll have to calculate labor somehow, but for now I'll cal it $500.00 for the install, including welding, design, fitting, etc. Rough estimate on new driveshafts, shocks, brake lines, limiting straps and other accessories is another $1200.00 including labor. Only working on weekends, so time scheduled for completion is about 60 hours total.
Last edited by justshootme84; 01-12-2006 at 09:40 PM.
#12
01-13-2006, 04:57 PM
#13
01-20-2006, 05:54 PM
Ding, ding, ding... you got it Towmanjbo. A special thanks goes to everyone who has responded. I have been away from the forums for a couple of weeks... LOTS going on in town what with US Figureskating Championships and St. Louis' own version of the "Detroit" Auto show. So I haven't been here to respond but I do appreciate the input. I'll be putting as much of this info into some kind of orgnanized chaos as soon as I can. Don't hesitate to add your own information just because I have posted this. I will continue to check this thread until I have finished compiling and writing.
#14
02-14-2006, 09:41 AM
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1991 5.8 / E4OD
ProComp 6" stage II
Extended radius arms, rear Add-A-Leaf.
extended brake lines front and back.
About $1100 included shipping.
Sway bar drops: $35
Poly bushings: $75-$80
Alignment $65
Time spent: 40 man hrs across two days (20 clock hrs time two people).
Notes:
35" still rub rad arm and sway bar. I need rims with about 1.5" - 2" less back space.
Brake fluid - Have on hand just incase.
ProComp 6" stage II
Extended radius arms, rear Add-A-Leaf.
extended brake lines front and back.
About $1100 included shipping.
Sway bar drops: $35
Poly bushings: $75-$80
Alignment $65
Time spent: 40 man hrs across two days (20 clock hrs time two people).
Notes:
35" still rub rad arm and sway bar. I need rims with about 1.5" - 2" less back space.
Brake fluid - Have on hand just incase.
#15
03-01-2006, 07:33 PM
I installed a 6" lift on my 79 Bronco. I got all my parts seperate from Bronco graveyard, b/c their lift kits weren't exactally what I wanted or it was to much of what I needed. I got some 6" superflex coil springs for the front, radius arm c bushings(7 degree), radius arm drop brackets, 4" drop pitman arm, 7" extended brake lines, adjustable trac bar, rear blocks, u bolts, and add a leafs. Then I got 4 skyjacker Nitro shocks from summit racing. Everything together ended up costing close to $800, and it took me the better part of a week end to it on(weather wasn't the greatest, could of been done quicker). My driveshafts were past the point of repair(wouldn't extend), and I ended up needing some new ones(got 2 for $40 in the classified ads on the forum).
After it is all finished, I'm very satisfied with the parts selectivly got, and when money permits, I'd like to get a pair of superflex leafs as well, but we'll see how that goes, might just do a shackle flip.
After it is all finished, I'm very satisfied with the parts selectivly got, and when money permits, I'd like to get a pair of superflex leafs as well, but we'll see how that goes, might just do a shackle flip.