90 Bronco steering column disassembly help!
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
90 Bronco steering column disassembly help!
I went to start my 90 Bronco 5.0FI with AOD trans. I started to turn the key when it made the bad sound. "Click" (as in breakage) from inside the column and the key turned a lot farther than normal. The ignition lights came on, it didn't start and it would not unlock the gear shift. I knew it would not be much fun to fix. I tore it apart and found the cast aluminum (pot metal) piece that pushes the rod down to the ignition switch and unlocks the gear shift had broken. I've taken apart everything I can and I can not remove the tilt assembly from the steering shaft so I can remove what's left of the broken piece. Is the steering shaft extention just a press fit on the end of the shaft or is it pinned? I can see what appears to be a large pin thru it. It is not a roll pin but solid and I've tried to drive it with a punch but it doesn't move. You can't get a straight shot at it due to the housing around it. If I do get it removed can I buy the cast aluminum piece that's broken? Or should I just try to buy a whole steering column from a salvage yard?
Last edited by gov2mod; Nov 27, 2005 at 10:12 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
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easier way
had the same problem with my 88 f 150 replaced all the stuff from a doner column and it just rebroke (should have just changed the column and been done with it been awhole lot easier) i would say if you can find a good column just change the column out thats what i would go for i think its alot easier to replace the column that to mess around with the internals also if you do decide to do it (replace the internals) check for start and run positions and acc before you button it all up took several times to get it right for me and then still rebroke 4 starts later or you could go with a good ol fashion starter button thats what i did before i got the new column just take out all the lock peices and put it in a safe place out of sight good luck!
Last edited by chevygoneford; Dec 1, 2005 at 08:04 AM.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 355
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From: Oregon
The broken part you're talking about is a "lower actuator". About $12 at a dealer. I just did one on '90 F250. I don't know what "pin" you're talking about. 
You shouldn't need to strip the column all the way down.
This is what I did-- I took the wheel, turn signal switch, shift lever, lock cylinder, upper actuator, upper cast aluminum trim collar, and the unbroken part of the lower acuator off. I'm assuming the part that broke off on yours is stuck inside the channnel in the column. I pulled the tilt pins out by threading machine screws into them (either 8x32 or 10x32, I dont remember) and prying them out. With the stub end of the column dropped out of the way I drilled the broken piece of the acuator and stuck a sheet metal screw into the hole. I used the screw to pry the broken piece out. It was a little tight but it came right out.
You shouldn't need to strip the column all the way down. This is what I did-- I took the wheel, turn signal switch, shift lever, lock cylinder, upper actuator, upper cast aluminum trim collar, and the unbroken part of the lower acuator off. I'm assuming the part that broke off on yours is stuck inside the channnel in the column. I pulled the tilt pins out by threading machine screws into them (either 8x32 or 10x32, I dont remember) and prying them out. With the stub end of the column dropped out of the way I drilled the broken piece of the acuator and stuck a sheet metal screw into the hole. I used the screw to pry the broken piece out. It was a little tight but it came right out.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
Toyscout2 and 1pump, thanks for the help. It's the pivot pins I need to remove. I know exactly how to do it now. I just was afraid to pull them out if I didn't need to. 1pump, the pin I was talking about (that I don't need to remove) is actually in the steering shaft extension.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 121
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From: S.E. Alaska
This is why...
I hate that stupid actuator setup. So much so in fact that when I got my Bronco I pulled the ignition switch wires out of the connector and wired them through a second fuse block and then to a new key switch on the dash.
I'm thinking about going to push start so it's easier to steal. What's nice though is that at least in my setup, the turn signals and horn are run through wiring down the side and not the connector so I saved a bit of wiring there.
I'm thinking about going to push start so it's easier to steal. What's nice though is that at least in my setup, the turn signals and horn are run through wiring down the side and not the connector so I saved a bit of wiring there.
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