I'm looking to join the ranks and buy a classic. It's a 65 or 66 F250 2WD. From the grille, I'd say its a 66, but the guages in the dash don't match other 66 250s in the photo galleries. It has the large round speedometer.

It has a running 352. Runs fairly well, it ran a little rough when I saw it today, but its also sat for a few months. I'm sure she's got a few miles on her. I figure with a little TLC it would make a good daily driver for my 2 mile commute.

It has a utility box and ladder rack on it, which I'd sell off. I'll be in the market for a styleside box for it. I'm not sure if its a long or short box. I haven't meansured the wheel base, yet.

The body is pretty decent shape. Has a few dents and a some rusted spots, most of which have had someone poorly attempt a fix.

Right now I've got about a week to scrounge up the $1000 I offered. Did I offer too much? He was asking $1500. Am I getting my money's worth? I've got a few pics. Just don't want to create a gallery, since it isn't my truck, yet.

 

Welcome to the club, hopefully...

A 1966 will have the two arrows, pointing at each other on the top of the grill. The 352 was the V8 flavor for that year, very good motor and will work like a horse. Since it has the round speedo, that would mean it's not a Custom Cab, they had the sweeping speedo. Check under the truck for rot, especially at the cab mounts. You will probably spend another $500-$1000 for a bed. I would say you are close to being on at $1000, but look underneath first and determine what it's worth to you. I didn't really need an old truck, but saved it from a future as a shooting range for $1 and the cost for me to remove it...

--Mike

 

yea id really check out the cab.the cabs are the first to rust out trust me i dont have alot of floor in mine lol and the front on the hoods are the first to go if the floor is in bad shape id make him come down on the price

 

The utility box really kills it's value, so getting rid of it and putting on a standard box is a good plan. I'd wager it's a longbed, as I can't recall ever seeing a shortbed with a utility box, plus it's a 250 which was (almost?) always a longbed truck.
8' beds are a little easier to find than shortbeds, simply because the shortbed trucks are more popular to restore.
Grilles got swapped around quite a bit. If it's really a '66, the radiator will mount fairly flush to the core support. If it's a '65, the radiator will have brackets that move it towards the engine about 3 inches.
Hoods can be difficult to find. Hopefully yours is repairable.
Check the core support at the bottom for rot, easily done by looking at it from inside the wheel opening. This is a problem area. Repros have just become available, but allow $350-500 to replace.
Cab mounts in the front and the cab crossmember outer ends at the rear rust. Repair panels are available, as are floorpans (but are a lot of work). Ditto the bottom front corners of the door openings...Carolina Classics now makes patch panels for these. Roofs rust around the perimeter and can be hard to fix.
$1000 for a truck you can drive home is reasonable, especially if you can get enough for the utility bed to offset the cost of getting a 'proper' box. Keep us posted!

 

Welcome to the FTE! Sounds like you got a good start on a truck there. if the engine doesn't smoke, then you probably have a good deal there. Its hard to touch a running truck for $1000 around here, no mater what the age or condition.

 

I've posted some pics of it. Unfortuneatly the pics don't show it, but the worst rust I can find is along the roofline on the drip rail, but it doesn't appear that bad. There's some bondo on the front corner of the door opening. I can't tell how bad the cab floor is as someone has pop rivetted some sheets down to it. The doors, as in the pics have some obvious bondo. However, they look solid from the inside. Everything else appears solid. The side emblems don't match? I didn't notice that until yesterday. They both they "Twin I-Beam", but the passenger's side was different. I couldn't get a straight answer from the owner on the year. He said it was a '65, but his partner said it was a '66.

 

I paid a G for mine drove from Costa Mesa CA to Nevada to get it. It's had to have very little done to it really, exhuast manifold gasket was the worst of it. I'd also suggest looking into that as it is a major pain to repair on these..easy100.00 knockoff!!! as well as replacing that glasspipe under your ear "MAN"!! all in all it looks like a decent truck but have a (good) look at it.
electrical, rust, steering mech/kingpins, brakes, tranny (DRIVE THE THING) and always, always haggle..Wish I could have taken my own advice there.>>

 

It doesent look to have alot of the external rust you usually see, but the i wasent able to see the cab corners, also if the fenders havent had rust fixed at the bottom thats a good sign also, it does look liek someone has halfassed a few things on the truck, like the bumper and exhaust, a new bumper will range you from $99 (painted) - $159(chrome) The Exhaust would be nice if kicked out just before the rear wheels or out the back completely to save vibrations and echos in the cab, It looks clean, and if the box is mostly rust free you could clean it up and there will be someone out there looking for one of those. they arent the most common thing.

Good luck, could be a really nice truck

 

Not bad for $1000. It definitely has a 66 grille. I bet that exhaust makes a heck of alot of noise! If it runs and drive ok, I'd say ****** it up, fix the problem areas as you can afford to, and enjoy driving a cool classic.