I'm ab to go get the diameter. I work at a hotel, but we're not busy right now and it would take only 2 minutes,lol.

 

It is 3" in diameter.

 

okay good just like mine so i pull some parts togther tom and pricings.

 

I would really appreciate it! If there's anything I can do for you, let me know. I have an extra haynes manual for the 93+ Ranger you can have if you like, I would ship it to you for helping me. You prolly already have one tho.

 

haha no thinks i owna 87 2.9 so no use. but i am always grateful to help anyone out. the way i figured is if i can get everyone building there own then companies will have to lower intake prices hahahahah. but i have a picture of your engine spec from off line so i can figure something out

 

Lol, now that wouldn't be any help, would it? Lol, I'm excited ab the CAI. Lower prices would be nicer.

 

okay sry for keeping you waiting here is all you need.
2: 3" 30 gauge 90 degree elbow BOX # 30399 $2.86 per
1 roll: 2.5"x50 yard foil havac tape STORE # 95195 $13.98
(this is the most exspensive item but tis worth it. it has a heat reflective service and will hold tighter and longer then duct tape, just applu with clean hands and avoid touching the glue)
1: 3" x 2' 30 gauge pipe BOX # 36394 $3.34 per
(this will not come in a tube shape you will have to push it and it will lock int the tube shape. though you can use staples to hold it solid but i didn't need it. the good par tis this alows you to easily trim off extra not needed with tin snips or old fashion wire cutters. I am using the left over to make a heat shield)
EXTRA ITEMS
1 package: Pipe Wrap Insulation(Frost King) 2" Wide 1/8 thick 15 feet long
$2.98!!!!!!!!!!!!! STORE # 24437
( this is my wrap and look how cheep it is!!!!! it works like a charm. and use small pieces to rolled up put space between the intake and heater hoses, radiator hoses, ect.)

now i looked at your engine bay and it seems that you will be needing 2 bends and a stright i hope it work out for you!! make sure when using the bends that you use he scrunch side to lip over tb and filter. It will be tight but it will fit and tight means less movement in engine reving and general driving. Good luck and send me a pm or thred some pictures i f you get it to work

 

Good writeup devilsword. I believe I will try that as well. Nate if you're interested in selling that Haynes I'm interested.
I'm going to make a CAI if I can ever figure out whether it will affect inspection or not.

 

Ok, need suggestions.

From the Texas DPS website:
1995 and older vehicles that are equipped with a TAC system are required to have all the components in place in order to pass the visual emissions component inspection, which is part of the annual safety inspection. The TAC system consists of the enclosed air cleaner/filter assembly and a heat shroud at the exhaust manifold and then there is also a heat duct hose that connects from the heat shroud to the air cleaner assembly. Also, some of the TAC systems had a fresh air duct hose that attached from the front or side of the air cleaner assembly to either the front or side of the vehicle. The TAC system is a closed-type air cleaner/filter assembly and it was designed to reduce Hydrocarbon (HC) and Carbon Monoxide (CO) emissions during cold engine operation, so if your vehicle came equipped with a TAC system and if it was removed and replaced with an open-type design air filter/intake assembly, the vehicle will fail the visual emissions component inspection.

So, no CAI, correct?

 

Bump and update!

I installed "fog lights" today. Actually they are more for show and I don't see a lot of fog around here. I put them inside the gap of the bumper just above the license plate, set back around 6 inches. They look really good. Easy install, ran them through the firewall with my amp wire, needed a wire extension for the turn on wire. I installed the switch into my "switch panel" which was a small peice of plastic located in front of the floor vents right in front of my stick shift. I am happy with them, they really light up close where the headlights don't and create an eerie glow if left on alone. I'll get some pics up soon.

 

Sounds nice!!! Pics will great.

What did you use for the power source?

 

It just used the battery. I wanted to run it into the fuse box but haven't ever done that before so wasn't sure how to do it.

Got ya a couple of pics. Gimme five and they'll be in my gallery.

 

Here you guys go.

The light's placement:



And on at night. They are a little brighter when the truck is running.


Tell me what you guys think!

 

Hard to see clearly, but glad you got them in OK. I have six driving lights on my Ranger now (see gallery).
My installation of the '04 Altima leather seats is continuing slowly as I expected. I have built an adapter for the right seat and should have that seat finished in a couple of days. The left seat adapter will be a little more difficult because of the Altima mounting points, but I will get that done next week if it isn't too cold. My major problem right now is figuring out the 7 wires that control the seat power. I went to some Nissan forums looking for an Altima wiring diagram but have gotten no response yet. If anyone has any suggestions re this, let me know. The seats are a good color match to my dash and headliner and will look great when I finally finish. I am having a carpet made and I haven't decided if I will build a center console or put in one from an Explorer.
Dono

 

Okay i don't know what model you are running it on my first atemp i didn't make a CAI but adapted a box upon the factory position to alow me to run a large open front cone filter. I made the box compleatl y from scratch(what can i say i have the mind for putting thing togther cheeply). After removing the compleat old intake box i took a few mesurments to see how wide i could exspand the box i wanted. then i went to lowes and picked up a 24" buy 34" sheet of alumminum(perfect for light weight and heat reflection) then i went to the industrial glue section and got some metal glue with 60 sec play. then doing some ruff messurments and calculations i formed a shape that would fit and made a practice box out of a box. it taped up nice and fit perfectly. I then used a gresse pincial to mark up the sheet metal cut it out with a table recipercating saw then glued it togther. later on with few small door hinges and a slip lock i made the box compleatly closed. point being you can make a box that should pass inspection as long as it looks good (ie paint it to look stock). now the fresh air hose that was on my truck(in VA) was just a coil hose that ran down to uder the car. anything close to something like that would do. the big part of your EM test is what comes out of your tail pipe so that should be you big worry. just make things all flow under the hood and no mater how costom it all is the lazy checkers will glance quickly maybe feel a hose or to and move on. i have some picks of the box i did roughly before the sanding an the lid. all and all it held up amazingly and the glue never melted nor became anyu less of its solid dry state.