I would like to reseat/replace my valves,springs,guides, retainers, ect., this winter.I have a 51 V8 239 with only 49000.00 original miles that runs moderatly well. What parts would you order before I even tear it down.
Any suggestions on improvements, modifications, best places to purchase
parts, $ wise. All comments/help appreciated. Thanks Dave

 

David,

You don't want to rebuild that old thing, Find a nice 302 and drop it in there. Since your existing engine will be too heavy for the garbage man to haul away, I'm offering my Flathead Haul-Away Service to you at no charge (it's my introductory offer to you). No need to thank me. I'm just a nice guy who wants to help. Now if you will just leave that engine out in front of your gargae and provide me with an address ......

Seriously, I wish I had your troubles. Sound like a nice engine (only 49K original miles) I'm looking for a rebuildable flathead for my 49 F2. There are a number of folks on the site that can help you out with this. I wanted to post so that I would be alerted to this thread. Hopefully I too will be needing to locate flathead parts and services soon.

 

Is there a reason that you want to change the seats, or do they need replacing.
If not a simple grind, and valve refaceing, and lapping, will do just fine. As far as the guides and springs go, they can also be checked. Its a possibility that the springs could be replaced, if need be.
Check them out first before you make any decisions, just a thought.

 

Don't you dare toss out that flatty! It's worth more than 2 or 3 302's.

With that mileage, you shouldn't need any replacement hard parts, unless it got all corroded or otherwise abused. The springs should be checked but likely need shimming at the most. (Might want to order some) Do you know of any specific problems (stuck valves, burned valves, etc) going in?

I also have a '51 V8, and they have unique valve keepers and retainers. They aren't any worse (or better) than the "normal" 8BA set-up. Just be aware that they are different in case you need to order any of that (not likely). As I recall, the reason they used these in '51 was because they didn't use hardened valve seats in the block. I think they were supposed to act like a rotator.

Take good valve clearance measurements before you disassemble each valve/spring assembly, write them down so you can see where you need to cut.

 

Now I know that, ... and you know that, ... but there's no reason to let him know that, especially when I need a flathead for my 49.

 

I have one cyclinder with what seems to be a sticking valve. Compression goes
from 125 to 0. I didn't know if that spring was weak that I should expect others.
I don't plan on removing the engine for this repair. ALBUQ F-1 I am not familare
with the shimming. Thanks for you comments.

 

David, obviously you know which cylinder the valve is sticking in. This remedie worked for me when I had the same problem, and it was caused from not enough regular use. With 49 K on your engine that is quite evident.
Anyway pull the plugs all of them, and disconnect the coil wire, so you won't have any live wires.
Take a can, of good penetrating oil go to the problem cylinder, and squirt some oil into the valve train. Now there a little hard to see, turn the engine over with the button on the bottom of the solonoid, and see if the problem valve is releasing. If not and you get lucky and see it in the open position. Tap it gently with a wooden dowl, to drive it down.
You may have to repeat this several times, but it make work for you as it did me. If it does, run the engine for 1/2 hour let it get warmed up good. Drop the old oil, or if its a recent oil change leave it.
Then fog the engine with good old transmission oil, down the carb until it quits. You won't need much, this will ;ubricate the whole top end. In the spring when you get the truck out fire it up to get the engine good and warm, change the oil, and hopefully all will be good.

 

If the engine runs then slowly pour some ATF down the carb while keeping the RPM up enough to keep running. DO NOT USE WATER! The ATF is an excellent lubricant and will usually free the valves. Flatties are known for stuck valves from lack of use.
I give my flatties (and stored OHV's) the ATF treatment every spring when they wake up.

If the head is already off then squirt a bit of PB Blaster or Kroil on the stem and gently tap with a brass hammer or use a wooden block. Turn over the engine so it is off the cam lobe.

A 302 makes a nice lawn ornament.