Possible Neutral Safety Switch?
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Possible Neutral Safety Switch?
Hey guys! First post here! Here's the scoop on my Ford...
86 F150 XLT 5.0L Fuel Injected LWB 2WD auto in the column
Found it in a field and picked it up for $400 and got it running, so it's had its fair share of problems!
Well a couple of weeks ago it began to having some starting problems. I would turn the key to crank and nothing would happen...nothing. Then after a few tries it would crank. Well eventually it stopped cranking altogether and then the actuator rod in the ignition broke. So I replaced that and that night it cranked just fine. Well the next morning it was doing the same thing. So I put it in neutral and it cranked right up. Well, did this for about a week and now it won't even crank in neutral! Perhaps my neutral safety switch burned out? If so, where is it located and how do you bypass it?
86 F150 XLT 5.0L Fuel Injected LWB 2WD auto in the column
Found it in a field and picked it up for $400 and got it running, so it's had its fair share of problems!
Well a couple of weeks ago it began to having some starting problems. I would turn the key to crank and nothing would happen...nothing. Then after a few tries it would crank. Well eventually it stopped cranking altogether and then the actuator rod in the ignition broke. So I replaced that and that night it cranked just fine. Well the next morning it was doing the same thing. So I put it in neutral and it cranked right up. Well, did this for about a week and now it won't even crank in neutral! Perhaps my neutral safety switch burned out? If so, where is it located and how do you bypass it?
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Hmm, no didn't replace the ignition switch. Just went out there to look and jiggled the shifter (in park) while cranking it and it fired up. Could maybe something be loose and telling the truck it's not in park when it actually is? Seems like we jiggled it just right and cranks every time, but still can't be trusted, might come loose again.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pelahatchie, MS
Since you put it that way, it sounds like a neutral safety switch. I'm not sure where it is, but here is something I found at the website of the local parts house for my old truck. This is up for correction by any takers.....
On your 1986 FORD TRUCK F150 1/2 TON P/U 4WD, the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH is:
UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, BEHIND BELLHOUSING, ABOVE FLUID PAN, MOUNTED ON TRANSMISSION HOUSING
They have been known to be wrong, but it's a start. They show the part for about 25 bucks. Ignition Switch was under 10. And if you're lucky, it's something a little loose.....
On your 1986 FORD TRUCK F150 1/2 TON P/U 4WD, the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH is:
UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, BEHIND BELLHOUSING, ABOVE FLUID PAN, MOUNTED ON TRANSMISSION HOUSING
They have been known to be wrong, but it's a start. They show the part for about 25 bucks. Ignition Switch was under 10. And if you're lucky, it's something a little loose.....
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 356
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From: Southwest VA
Jumping the Solenoid just shorts outside the solenoid bypassing the whole ignition sw/neutral safety switch/wiring. that just means the starter is working.
That problem could be the ignition switch itself or the neutral safety switch. you have to drop the steering column to get to it (the ignition switch) s. (not that difficult) (just have to take that small panel in the middle off to get to it. I am not sure where the neutral safety switch is I have a manual tran. I had an issue with the wire for clutch switch (same circuit as far as wiring the wire goes) and it shorted between the switch and ignition wire and it went Poof one day. Had to bypass it for a while to get it working (only 1 vehicle at the time) And finally took dash apart to redo the wiring (had about 3-4 different circuits to repair troubleshoot) bypassing it involves just running a wire from he red/blue spot around the switch. I"m not sure where' its located but look for something on the steering column that is same color as the wire on the starter relay. You can splice the wiring there and that would bypass the switch.
That problem could be the ignition switch itself or the neutral safety switch. you have to drop the steering column to get to it (the ignition switch) s. (not that difficult) (just have to take that small panel in the middle off to get to it. I am not sure where the neutral safety switch is I have a manual tran. I had an issue with the wire for clutch switch (same circuit as far as wiring the wire goes) and it shorted between the switch and ignition wire and it went Poof one day. Had to bypass it for a while to get it working (only 1 vehicle at the time) And finally took dash apart to redo the wiring (had about 3-4 different circuits to repair troubleshoot) bypassing it involves just running a wire from he red/blue spot around the switch. I"m not sure where' its located but look for something on the steering column that is same color as the wire on the starter relay. You can splice the wiring there and that would bypass the switch.
Last edited by Violjohn78; Nov 22, 2005 at 01:01 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
I don't think you want to bypass the n/s switch.
It's there for a reason.
My 81 F150 (T-18) doesn't have a n/s switch.
Maybe the starter sw. is loose.
I'm sure it's an easy fix.
When you get it fixed, let us know what it was.
It's there for a reason.
My 81 F150 (T-18) doesn't have a n/s switch.
Maybe the starter sw. is loose.
I'm sure it's an easy fix.
When you get it fixed, let us know what it was.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 356
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From: Southwest VA
i wasn't necessarily recommending the bypassing just saying how. Your T18 Sierraben (manual tranny) should have a clutch switch instead of the neutral safety switch. My switch is mounted on the clutch pedal. The neutral safety switch is typically mounted on the steering column from what i can find, looking at advance auto there are two types of switches. I think one is for AOD the other is for C6 ect.
Hopefully it wasn' the bear that my problem was. Taking teh dash part isn't fun but i made a couple weekend project out of it. to fix a butt load of stuff
Hopefully it wasn' the bear that my problem was. Taking teh dash part isn't fun but i made a couple weekend project out of it. to fix a butt load of stuff
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
Likes: 3
From: San Francisco, Ca.
Violjohn78, actually my 81 F150 didn't come with a neutral safety or clutch switch switch.
The plug, under the dash, is looped, to complete the circuit to the starter relay.
My starter relay on my truck has only 3 terminals; 2 for the battery and one from the ignition switch.
Makes it interesting when I forget to take it out of gear and start it.
The plug, under the dash, is looped, to complete the circuit to the starter relay.
My starter relay on my truck has only 3 terminals; 2 for the battery and one from the ignition switch.
Makes it interesting when I forget to take it out of gear and start it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
I don't know what auto you have, but on my C6, the N/S switch is on the DS of the tranny where the linkage connects to the body. Mine is a combo switch, it's for the N/S and the reverse lights. I may replace it soon as my B/U lights are working intermittently 
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 52
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From: Green Bay USA
Your symtoms are EXACTLY what my '86 F250 had last year. I'm only handy enough to be dangerous and changing the N/S switch was pretty easy. The part was cheap and along with a Haynes manual it didn't take long. I was suprised that my BU lights worked for the first time in years once I replaced the N/S switch. And I was able to re-align my linkage with my gear indicator. So, for 1 project and a couple hours, I cured 3 problems.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Drove the truck to work and it did the same thing...nothing when I turned the key. So I held the key down and shook my shifter back and forth and once i found a "sweet spot"...it cranked right up. Is there a certain contact inside the column? Or is it traveling all the way down to the switch? I think it's the AOD tranny, so the switch should be the same as the C6 minus the pin.