For about the last eight months, I've been gathering and rebuilding all the parts to put a Dana 44 from a '78 Bronco into my '88 F-150. Well, last weekend (during the GTG naturally), I started. Here's some prelim pics.


http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0402.JPG

Now, the removal of the old...

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0406.JPG

Grinding off the old coil buckets
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0411.JPG

New coil buckets installed and axle hanging by springs. Those 4" springs sure look long...
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0415.JPG

Truck eats man...film at 11.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0416.JPG

Cooper (the dog) commenting on the radius arm bushings...or where he buried a bone,I'm not sure yet
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0419.JPG

Getting closer. All that's needed is brake lines and steering at this point.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0420.JPG

For reference, my GF is 5'8"
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0427.JPG

Sitting back on her feet again.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/2...e/100_0429.JPG
I've since hooked up the steering and track bar, and just finished the brakes. It drives a lot different than the TTB, but that's a good thing. Now comes the rear...another day.


Sean

 

Looks good.


I would suggest getting some por-15 on that frame to match the black axles, ofcourse when the cash flow permits it ~ por-15 is expensive.

 

What bushings did you use? Urethane?

 

Yeah, that was the plan. I've got something very similar in mind, just haven't done it yet. As for the axle, it's powdercoated.

The bushings are urethane, Daystar I believe.

Sean

 

You can get a master bushing kit from Energy Suspension, but then you'll be all through the truck before it's over...

Better to do one area at a time, else you never get to drive it!

 

You should have ran aftermarket radius arms, you'll find factory ones on a lift will have tire clearance issues, speaking from experience here, back spacing will not correct it.
Looks great though, you have to go high to clear the crossmember if you don't hack it out and fab up engine mounts.
You could go with a shackle flip, but they require new springs to correct where they put the axle forward, or you'll have clearance issues with the tire and forward fender.
Do not use polyurethane bushings, they limit flex, I used to believe they were great, but found them too stiff to give, limiting the trucks abilities on uneven terrain.

 

I just finished the shackle flip tonight. It did move the tire forward a little bit, but I may use an offset 1" block to bring the axle back. Or, I could move the rear back a little, and move the front mount back about two inches. Either way, I'm happy, and it sits level now. As for the radius arms, I'm thinking about Bent & Twisted's radius arm extensions. The only thing I'm not crazy about is they require you to put your RA's in a press and bend them to return the frame ends back to normal.

Sean

 

I'd buy aftermarket replacements, I think they use heim joints or similar, far better flexability. I've been thinking about having a custom 1" tall block machined to set the axle back if I did the shackle flip but the factory location is far more stable. http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-23500_super_flex_extended_radius_arms.htm
Sounds like you got it up there, need to get a photobucket account and upload pictures of it to post on the board.
http://broncograveyard.com/images/ca...879RADARMS.JPG

Sorry, couldn't find the ones with the heimjoints on the ends.

 

Yeah, I've got a Supermotors account that works fine, just too lazy right now to make it work. I'm probably going to make my own shims to reset the wheel back about 1.5". But, there are so many other things I need to do first. The biggest problem with changing so much on the suspension is that now I have to tune everything to get it all feeling right again. Plus, the solid axle feels so much different than the TTB in general, so there is a little bit of a learning curve with that.

I would love to put on some decent RA's (i.e Cage, Superflex), but the money isn't there right now.

Sean

 

I've seen home built ones for the Bronco II's, hadn't seen any for the F-150's, has to be because the factories are iron, they reuse the axle attachment ant weld up a link much like traction bars. The factory radius arms are the biggest limiting factor on flex.
The TTB is much like independent, they give the smoothest ride on the road, and bumpy roads, but are far weaker than the solid axle's.
The panard rod is the most important for travel, if it's not right, the axle won't stay centered.