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my 78 300 6 neg. track truck has a wheel hop, if i hammer the gas. woulld stabliziers help solve this problem? if i accelerate slowly there is no hop, only if i punch it
I could get really violent wheel hop, which I believe help contribute to my broken main leaf. I just finished replacing the rear spring packs, new Rancho shocks and L & L ladder bars. It will really bind the travel but should plant the tires well. I would not recommend these for yours but something like a kicker shock. I looked at your gallery and since you have left everything stock so far then just new spring packs may be enough, also check the shocks condition. Good luck.
ladder bars on leaf springs will bind the springs as the bars try to make the rear move in a arc.But on a high horse truck they seem to be the only way.You can wrap the rear up so much that the u joints cant
handle the angle.A regular traction bar like used on cars schould help though.At least on a 300 6.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Mar-02 AT 10:16 PM (EST)]It'll work on a 300 6, but what about a setup for a 351M? I've done quite a bit of damage with uhh..accidentaly pushin the gas to hard and letting the clutch fly..heh yeah thats it. ;-) I get some pretty nasty wheel hop with my 33x12.5's. Do they make the normal old bolt on traction bars for a 79 F-150 4x4? Or am I looking into a little more difficult (expensive) setup?
Thanks, Mike
It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
1979 F-150 4x4 Shortbed 4 spd 351M Mild Cam 33x12.5's and many other neat thingers
1978 F-150 w/250 front end Supercab 4x4 Dana HD44 Towing cam
1977 F-150 Longbed 4x4 4spd Psycho lift cam, Decked & Bored
1996 Ford Explorer
I dont see why they wont work.The snubber needs to hit close to the spring shackle.I made a set once by welding some 2" square tube to the axel and put a rubber bumper on the end of it that would hit on the spring near the shackle.1/2 ton trucks are worse about wheel hop
not as much spring to wrap up.Adding more spring also helps.