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Come on guys, theres got to be a good way yo remove frame rivets!! I'm tired of beating and beating and beating and well you get the idea. I've been knocking the heads off with air chisel then grinding flush. Then (you probably know whats next) beat and beat and beat until they pop out. Only 20 to go.
I remember doing that once upon a time, and I ground them flush, then drilled them out pretty far, and then beat them out. Once the center of the rivet is drilled out, it collapses and goes through the hole easier.
I always like to drill them first because sometimes they like to spin before you get all the way through if you take the head of first. Then it becomes loads of fun!!!
Come on guys, theres got to be a good way yo remove frame rivets!! I'm tired of beating and beating and beating and well you get the idea. I've been knocking the heads off with air chisel then grinding flush. Then (you probably know whats next) beat and beat and beat until they pop out. Only 20 to go.
Plow dude,
Why not try heating them up then use the air chisel to cut the heads off. Then use the air chisel with a point bit to push them through the hole.
I have never tried this on rivets, but when you heat up the metal it would be softer to chisel.. I have done this to bolts on a plow frame that were rusted.. I just cut the end off then air chiselled them out. Took maybe 5 minutes a bolt.
I always like to drill them first because sometimes they like to spin before you get all the way through if you take the head of first. Then it becomes loads of fun!!!
Good point! And, "a little bit off the top" should give a good spot to center-punch it.
Why not try heating them up then use the air chisel to cut the heads off. Then use the air chisel with a point bit to push them through the hole.
I have never tried this on rivets, but when you heat up the metal it would be softer to chisel.. I have done this to bolts on a plow frame that were rusted.. I just cut the end off then air chiselled them out. Took maybe 5 minutes a bolt.
Im afraid to heat anything up and weaken the frame or brackets.
Some good discussion on frame metal, heating, welding etc. I think we concluded that these trucks do not have heat-treated frames but it's best to be carefull when using the torch.
Frank
i just have to ask, why do all you guys go through all the trouble to get rid of the rivets in your frame??? unless they have become lose(which under most circumstances isn't the case) leave them alone, and just tack weld them on each side, incase they may become loose in the furture. hell there are still rivets holding up the golden gate bridge which has seen more stress put on them than the ones in the frames of our trucks ever will. why make it harder than it has to be
One reason I took some of my rivets out was so I could remove the crossmembers or overload hangers to clean and paint. Once I ground off the head it was relatively easy to knock it out with a bfh and punch. One change I would do next time is to drill the rivet hole out a little larger to put in a slightly bigger bolt, so it'd good and snug.
In the past when I had to remove them I would grind about half of the
head off, leaving a flat head to drill on and I would drill starting with a small
bit first and then step up in size slowly and they have always been a
( Breeze )!
Here is how I got my big frame rivets out-took 5 minutes each. Go to Harbor freight and get their big grinder with 10 inch wheel. Fire it up and lock the trigger. Bring the big wheel in parallel to the frame and grind down head flush with the frame. If you do it carefully you wont even nick the frame but will shine it a little, then take a punch and knock the tail back through and out. You'll be glad you got that grinder.
That's basically what I did, only I used a 5". Still went quick. I only did a few of the crossmembers and such in the back, like the one in back of the rear gas tank. Sure made getting the tank in and out a breeze. Personally I'm too nervous to remove them all, I think the rivets are just tighter.