Thanks Jim - this thread is current even tho it's several years old.

Your serial number is for a '49 half ton 6 cylinder truck

The firewall stamping says it was: 7 SP 18H 1417854
Meadow Green
Built in St Paul MN
August 18th

1417854 would be unit number but that's a lot more characters than we usually see.

 

mtflat,

I guess I confused you about build date and configuration, let me clear that up.

The notes I got with my truck when I bought it in 2008 are from when the builder bought the truck, some time prior to November of 2005 when he titled it in Florida. So the December 9, 1949 date is a note taken down by the person who bought it out of a field in Georgia. He must of tried decoding the stampings on the firewall and just gotten the month wrong.

It had no engine or trans when he bought it, which was in Georgia some time prior to when he titled it in November of 2005. I am sure it had an engine and trans when Ford built it in September of 1949.

It is clear that the VIN on my title does not belong to my truck. I am just attempting to see if I can somehow find the correct VIN for my truck. Is there any other place on the frame or body where Ford would stamp the VIN? (besides the passenger-side frame rail by the front axle, the firewall plate, and the inside of the glove box plate)

Thanks,

Walt

 

Hi Walt,
That clears things up - I was under the impression the December note was from the original purchaser.

Unfortunately those 3 locations are the only places the serial number is found. Any other numbers you will come across are part or production numbers for that specific piece.

One other possibility but a very slim one is a buck tag under the seat. Ford used paper for the build/buck tags, so they're usually long gone by now IF your plant even used one.
But even if you do locate it, they don't normally have the serial number included.

The two J dates I have for '49 range between 239,000 and 250,000 so that's as close as I can come to backtracking it.
But, it could also be a September '50 truck. In that case I have three other J dates for 50 that range from 461,000 to 479,000

There just weren't any variations from 49-50 that would help you pin it down closer... wish I could help you get closer, but I'm at a dead end.
Tim

 

mtflat,
Tim,

Thanks, I have to agree.

I have contacted the individual that I purchased the truck from back in 2008 to see if they can go back to the individual that built the truck in 2005 to get any additional info that may be available.

If I hit a dead-end, with getting additional information, I am not sure I can go ahead with my plans to register my truck in Nevada. They will want to see the VIN on the frame and they may know that the VIN on my Michigan, and the old Florida title, does not match a F-1 pickup. In fact, the VIN on my title is not correct any 1949 F series as it has 98PTH397604 shown.

This does not leave me with any good options. Maybe just to keep the truck registered in Michigan, and make a plate with the VIN from the title stamped into it and weld that to the frame on the passenger side just to the rear of the GM front clip. At least that way the truck will have numbers that match my title.

Any other ideas anyone?

Walt

 

I would suggest gathering up what info you can, and keep it handy just in case the NV dmv asks. Otherwise I would let sleeping dogs lie. The plus on your end is that it's passed the biggest hurdles in Florida and Michigan, so that should say something. If it received a title in two states already with nobody calling to say it was stolen and put through a chop shop, I would say they shouldn't have an issue in NV. However, you'll likely end up paying certain filing fees to correct the current title to show the proper vin. Here in MN, if the clip was cut, and a different one welded on, it becomes a "reconstructed" vehicle, and a different title may be issued. If you have no intentions of selling anytime soon, it may not be a big problem. But after an amount of time, you'll be considered a NV resident, and so the tabs will have to be renewed in NV, and that may pose a problem, I dunno. The SEMA site has a link to each state's registration process, and maybe that will tell ya more. I don't have the link handy, but a SEMA google search should do it. Good luck!

 

Thanks MT! Cool info. My birthday is Aug. 17 apparently one day before my trucks birthday (although 30 years different). Cool to know, thanks!

 

Forget welding a plate, just stamp the frame
36 Piece 3/8" Steel Letter/Number Stamping Set

 

VIN inspection cops here in Colorado are way too lazy to look down at the frame, they only want to see the firewall tag. But, I would advise you to DEFINITELY not put a plate/tag on the frame, stamp directly on the frame as harleymsn says. A tag/plate welded onto the frame is a sure sign of trying to "pull the wool over". I work in the courts and my family is all law enforcement of one type or another (lawyers, investigators, beat cops, court administrators)... and trust me, the fuzz would look at you a lot with a lot more scrutiny if you weld something onto the frame.

If you really want to make it look as legit as possible, buy a repro firewall tag from lmc/macs, get it stamped with the special characters (stars), and stamp the frame to match (substituting I [eye] for 1 [one]) just like the factory did.

Also, I believe there is a 4th "secret" VIN stamping (listed in kbb guides) - on the frame underneath the cab, those folks here who have removed their cab might attest to the existence, I have not removed my cab.

I've yet to post mine - she's camera shy, but will do that later tonight showing a pretty clear what they look like special characters and all.

 

Bryan V,
Thanks for the advise, I think you make a great point, I will avoid welding a plate onto the frame and stamp it directly into the frame rail. I was not aware that we could buy a new VIN plate for the firewall. Please do post any pics that you think will help me create a good quality VIN plate!

Oh Boy, if there could be a VIN stamped on the frame under the cab, I will lift the cab for sure to check!! (Cab mounts need to be replaced anyway!)

Thanks again!

Walt

 

Harleymsn,

Thanks for the advise and the tip on which stamps to use!

Walt

 

Havi,

Funny you mention the SEMA site and there State Title procedures, as I did that and did not find much good info on Nevada because the rules here are getting tighter over the last 2 years. If I attempt to register my 49 here in Nevada, they will check the VIN for sure (older than 1966, they check 100%). If they can not verify the VIN, they title your car/truck as a 2011 and then depending on your county, you must get an annual smog check for the year of your engine. It is real strick here in the Vegas area because of the history of stolen cars here in Clark County.

I still own a home in Michigan, so until I sell that, I can keep my Michigan drivers license and my Michigan plates!

Walt

 

walt - when you search for a replacement tag, look for "serial number tag" as the whole vin system wasn't invented until years later (that is mentioned earlier in this thread as well) at the time of manufacture, our vehicles weren't titled or vin'd - the gov didn't care.. the title process was made later and a lot of owners mis-titled them as 49 when they were 50, etc... the original point of this whole thread was to figure out the cutoff since they didn't change the first digit like 48 to 49.

Next post is my (way late) introduction

 

Proper introductions folks...
My name is Bryan, several of you have seen me post but I've never really introduced till now - sorry bout that.
My girl is camera shy so I haven't posted a lot of pix, but it's time to lift the veil

She's originally titled as a '48, I (mis)used my court job to verify no stolen, no mish mash of parts... so I guess you could call mine a "number matching" rig....

answering the original questions:
1 - Year truck is registered as (or believed to be)
1948
2 - VIN # (The whole thing including the 98RC, 98RD, etc.)
87HC113998
3 - Bed - Raised Panel or flat panel
stakeside
4 - Is this the original bed
no 7 1/2', but supposedly 6 1/2' stakeside original
5 - Transmission
crashbox 4 speed spur gear
6 - Column shift or floor shift
floor
7 - # stamped into the firewall if you have one.
7 KC 8G 6


Purchased as a "1948 F1" Stakebed , it is a metalic dark green (forensically, I am pretty sure the original color was Meadow Green)
The stakebed has been replaced (now 7 1/2' non-ford script aftermarket), but the PO claims it was originally a stakebed , PO gave me the "original" sides (6 1/2', correct hardware and sculpting on the uprights) and the original ford script rear piece (beat up bad).
Overload secondary coil springs (no clue if that is original though)


Please correct me if I am wrong on any of this, as well as right / wrong on how to decode.

VIN (on title/registration)
87HC113998

VIN (on firewall tag rivetted to cab firewall)
*87HC*113998* KC
(KC sits in a box marked "Branch")

VIN (stamped on Frame)
*87HC<->113998*

glovebox door - no VIN plate

Vin Decode
8 - 1948
7H - 226 Rouge 6
C - F1 (D=F2, Y=F3, T=F7, TH=F6)
113998 - production number
KC - Kansas City
-------
Firewall Stamp ~1 1/2" tall hand stamped directly into firewall
Mine are actually very clear (albiet sharp, looks like he dang near punched clear through)
7 KC 8G 6
7 - Meadow Green (2=Vermillon Red, 3=Black, 4=Birch Gray, 16=Chrome Yellow)
KC - Kansas City
8 - 8th day of
G - July (A=January...M=December)
6 - 6th stakebed of the year?

The seat back had a dog tag in it that had the following:
FSC
7G 8164700

The HEAD part number casting on the engine
7HA6050-C2

I will post the engine casting when I figure out where the heck it is on the 6 cyl (all the guides show the 8 cyl locations, not the 6)

 

walt, as you can see they used a star with a circle in the center on the firewall tag, and a "normal" star and double headed arrow on the frame... take it for what it is worth, another thing to throw out there is cops don't like to see "removable" tags - i.e. RIVET in your firewall tag instead of nuts/bolts/screws, that's the way Henry did it too. Base on all 20 pages here and the pix included therein you can make a really authentic looking tag/stamp. If you get the cab off, and find a stamp might take a pix with today's newspaper or have the fuzz examine it.


Walt, as you can see from mine and 20 other pages of pix, they weren't super perfect, and almost illegible at times. you can make yours as pretty as you want or as rough as you want, but "too" perfect might raise the fuzz's eyebrows... smudge a little grease and paint em half over :P
[edit]
Walt, I just went back and re-read... you say your firewall tag exists but is painted over... mine was painted with UNDERBODY rubberized coating - that nasty black stuff.
I managed to dredge mine out without completely removing the plant box, etc by very carefully using a cotton ball and brake fluid to remove the first 1/8" of paint, then rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball to remove the last 0.02" , if you have patience you might save the whole plate and not remove any of the lowest level (original) paint.. that old paint is TOUGH, and it took my scrubbing decently... if you are very slow and methodical you might get your firewall tag back without removal and reproduction.

 

There is no vin/serial number under the cab on this series trucks.

Early Fords supposedly did (pre-40)

I bought a new data plate (firewall tag) from Sac Vintage and stamped it as bryan suggested. Attached with new push rivets that came with it. All the paint was gone from the original, but the numbers were still legible so I left the old one in place and put the new one right beside it. Ford used 1's on the data tag - see brain75's picture

And YES, use I instead of 1 on the frame stamping.

Bryan, you've got it figured out.
That 7HA 6050 is the pn for the head. V8 heads are 6049 and 6050