That type of stalling sounds more like the IAC or just a vacuum leak.

What year truck is it?

 

A squirt of starting fluid will not cover for bad spark plugs. Sounds to me like you have a fuel or air issue. Just like Krewat said.

 

For all those with an E4OD or later, all you need is a Transgo Tugger shift kit installed, for about $100 and your shifting problems disappear. Plus the kit replaces many factory plastic parts with HD or metal. The plate can be drilled to gentle but firm shift to knock your head off shifting.

 

It's not a hard job to do. Take your time, use the right tools, don't rush any step, and take your time. One last bit of advice: don't rush any step.
I have a 2005 3V and didn't replace mine until about 120,000 miles. The truck was running fine and was getting decent gas mileage. So, I put it off. I bought the OTC plug removal tool 2 or 3 years ago to do the job and finally got around to it a few months ago. It is not the only extraction tool you might need. If you follow the steps and use the tool properly, you'll eliminate or reduce the amount of plugs you have to remove using a different tool (that you can rent).
The one step I would lengthen is the time you soak the plugs. Crack them loose 1/8 turn and then soak them for 24 hours. One hour is not long enough. I can't remember if I used a torque wrench when I cracked them loose but I think I did so I wouldn't over-torque them (while loosening). After they were soaked, I used the OTC and the torque wrench and made sure I didn't over-torque the plugs while loosening them. They'll make a lot of noise (screeching). Do not try to go fast. Consider the plugs like fragile little cry babies who lost an election. You'll need to be consistent and firm, but still gentle.
If it feels like the plugs is binding, gently tighten and then loosen. Work it out of the threads easily. I got 9 out without any issues. The only one I rushed was the last one and was only because I thought I could remove it slightly faster than the rest. It broke and the OTC tool couldn't remove it. But, the ADT Ford Triton Spark Plug Porcelain Extractor worked fine. You can rent it or buy it. It comes with a small amount of a very special glue that is used on industrial projects. It works well - follow the instructions closely. It's not rocket science but I suggest practicing the steps before actually using the glue. The key is to go slow and you won't have to use the porcelain extraction tool.
One other trick: the fuel injector rail on the drivers side might be in the way when removing one of the plugs. It was on my truck and was above the plug that I rushed (and then broke). Don't try to save time by working around it. You'll know if it's in the way and it'll save time to remove the rail.

 

Just completed the plug replacement and coil boots/springs. With a oil change it took 3.5 hrs. with interruptions. I bought my sd 3.5 months ago, so the v-10 is new to me. Just take your time

 

Just did my 2000 F350 V10 106,000 miles. 3.5 hrs is about right. Great forum. Boots looked great but changed them anyway and was surprised how good the plugs looked. Bought my truck in 06 with 50,000 miles used to get 11 to 13 mpg and pulling 10 to 11 now getting about 10 empty. Hopefully the new plugs will help but not sure will post the results after a couple tanks.

 

You might also change out the O2 sensors. Mine had 170k on them, no check engine light for them but gained 1mpg and more power when I changed mine.

 

I wonder how many of the people on here calling for 11 ft lbs had their plugs rocket out of their heads. ford released a tsb that updated the torque specs to the 20 ft lbs range. I forget exactly without access to Mitchel on demand but I remember going though this problem with our city fleet of about 30 ford mod motors. ford updated the head design to get away from having to do a recall and released a tsb.

 

I have seen the light and now torque to 20ft/lbs I have done 5 cylinders with time-sert repair and have not had any more issues with blowing out a plug (knock on wood) since changing my torque wrench. Just rolled to 260k.

 

I hope I'm not stepping on anyone toes. If I am please forgive, if not, someone please point me to the light. 2000 Ford Excursion v10. Blown spark plug... Now striped. Bought a kit. The tap is to short and the hole is too small. The tap calls for 3/4 socket. I guess the true question should be... "What am I missing?"

 

 

What kit did you buy? Were there no instructions with it?

 

Stop and check into a time-sert repair. Go to timesert.com this is a proven method for blown plug repair. The repair tool kit is not cheap but it is about half the cost of having the repair done by most shops. I have done 5 plugs, not all have blown but while I was under the hood I did the 5 and 10 hole just in case. Let me know if you need additional info.

 

maybe it's just the brand name of the socket you are trying. If you're using Craftsman or Snap On then maybe try a generic.

If you line up 5 different brand names of the "same" socket you will be surprised how different they are.

Or maybe find a smaller drive- maybe the one you have is 1/2" drive and you should try 3/8" or 1/4".

 

STOP!!!! If it's one of the Heli coil save a thread (the ones with the sert that look like a spring) you will damage the thread or worst and possibly head removal would be necessary.
This one is the same as Timesert but do eat come with the price tag I have used it in one of the work trucks, it has 30k+ miles on the fix.

Heli-Coil Sav-A Thread Spark Plug Repair Kit | eBay