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Need Detailed Instructions for V-10 Spark Plug Change

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  #16  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:28 PM
Schooner 45 Schooner 45 is offline
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JustAnswer.com says 7-14 ft/lbs. also confirmed the ticking or exhaust leak sound is possible warning of blowout coming.
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:46 PM
Antelope V-10 Antelope V-10 is offline
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FWIW, not saying any is right or wrong. My 2003-2004 Ford factory Service Information DVD says 11ft.lbs in the spark plug replacement section. In the engine torque specs section it says 89 in-lbs {7.4 ft-lbs.}. Neither section says anything about to use or not to use anti-seize. If you look up the plugs on the Motorcraft website, they say as a hint to use anti-seize for aluminum heads. I don't think anybody ever produced the TSB for higher torque although it was thought to be for the 3 valve plugs. I went with 150 in-lbs. {12.5 ft-lbs.} and anti-seize when I did mine.

I just found another spec in the cylinder head installation section stating,

"CAUTION: When installing the spark plugs, use care not to exceed the recommended torque.
Install the 10 spark plugs.
Tighten the spark plugs to 18 Nm (13 lb-ft). "

So that is 3 different specs in the Ford Manual alone. No wonder there is so much confusion.
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2009, 01:09 AM
darrowco darrowco is offline
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Afternoon Plug R&R

Just changed the plugs in my 2001 v10. No surprises, just blow all of the mud and gravel off from the plug area and then from the holes after removing the coils but before removing the plugs. I put stock plugs in with anti-seize. After reading all the varying info on torque, finally went one over 13 (14 ft-lbs), allowing for the extension wind up - they sure did not feel any too tight! We will see, if I have any blow outs I will come back and edit this post.

The only irk was that when I removed the injector connectors on the passenger side (to get the socket onto the little coil retention bolt), the plastic lock retainer broke off of each connector As soon as I compressed it with my thumb - snap! Heat and age I guess. Hopefully the FI connectors will stay in place without them.

All in all, not too bad of a task, got the big ol' 1/2" drive torque wrench onto each plug - just had to mix-n-match 3 or 4 different extensions. I would have used a in-lb or n-m wrench but have not got around to getting one yet - hopefully it was close enough.
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  #19  
Old 03-30-2009, 12:45 PM
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Well now I am confused after reading this thread! We did our spark plugs yesterday and torqued them to 14 ft lbs with anti-seize. I might call a friend that I used to work with at Ford and see what they torque them... Here is a picture of the plugs.

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  #20  
Old 05-02-2009, 10:00 AM
dogsofworr dogsofworr is offline
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BlownOutSparkPlug.com

Interesting looking repair...
Blownoutsparkplug.com

Their take on installing plugs (from FAQ)

Q: Do you have special techniques for installing the regular plugs during a tune up type plug change to help stop the dreaded blown out spark plug?
A: Yes, Use an air blast before and after plug removal to clean any debris that may affect the seating of the replacement spark plug. Using a small power wire brush or other device remove all carbon from the plug seating area. Torque the replacement spark plugs to 28 foot lbs. In our opinion these 3 items added to a standard spark plug change will guarantee the best success.
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  #21  
Old 05-02-2009, 10:04 AM
dogsofworr dogsofworr is offline
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Reinstalling the COP boots

Anyone have advice on getting the COP boots to seat. Truck was running great before I put new plugs in. Now it's definitely missing on some cylinders.

Do you put the boot and spring spark plug lead in place first and then seat the coil on top or assemble the coil and boot and just let the coil screw cinch it all down. Or is there some other cool trick to get the coil connected to the spark plug?
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2009, 10:24 AM
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been looking at my new plugs for a couple of weeks. this might be the weekend to do it. nice write up art. thanks.
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2009, 01:21 PM
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Put the boot on the COP and install. There's almost no way to get the COP all the way down without the boot on the plug, and the spring will certainly contact the plug that way. Twist the COP back and forth a little bit as you push it down, that'll help everything settled down.

When you put the COP and boot together, put a little dielectric grease around the COP where it seals to the boot, then around the tip of the boot where it seals against the plug, and around the seal area where the boot seals to the head.

I still think 28ft/lbs is way too much.
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  #24  
Old 05-02-2009, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordTruckGirl77 View Post
Well now I am confused after reading this thread! We did our spark plugs yesterday and torqued them to 14 ft lbs with anti-seize. I might call a friend that I used to work with at Ford and see what they torque them... Here is a picture of the plugs.

Right bank plugs look a little lean,You may want to check the o2 sensor for that bank.
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2009, 07:02 PM
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Just to confuse everyone more, the 08 Ford service manual states 25 ft lbs for the early build with the black coil boot and 9 ft lbs for the late build with the brown coil boot. So, to be sure what your torque value should be you would need to check the Ford manual for your specific year.
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  #26  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:25 PM
amsoilman amsoilman is offline
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I have a 1998 E-450 Class C Motorhome with the V-10 Engine, which I just purchased, and I'm concerned about the "spark plug blowout" that I keep hearing about. One of the reasons I am concerned is that my grandson's F-150 with the Triton 5.4 just had it happen to him.

can someone address this question?

thanks in advance
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  #27  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:24 PM
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I am a new V10 owner and was just wondering at how many miles are you putting new plugs in. And what brand of plugs are you using?

Tim
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  #28  
Old 08-21-2009, 01:56 PM
Schooner 45 Schooner 45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrowco View Post
Just changed the plugs in my 2001 v10. No surprises, just blow all of the mud and gravel off from the plug area and then from the holes after removing the coils but before removing the plugs. I put stock plugs in with anti-seize. After reading all the varying info on torque, finally went one over 13 (14 ft-lbs), allowing for the extension wind up - they sure did not feel any too tight! We will see, if I have any blow outs I will come back and edit this post.

The only irk was that when I removed the injector connectors on the passenger side (to get the socket onto the little coil retention bolt), the plastic lock retainer broke off of each connector As soon as I compressed it with my thumb - snap! Heat and age I guess. Hopefully the FI connectors will stay in place without them.

All in all, not too bad of a task, got the big ol' 1/2" drive torque wrench onto each plug - just had to mix-n-match 3 or 4 different extensions. I would have used a in-lb or n-m wrench but have not got around to getting one yet - hopefully it was close enough.
Hey - did you have any luck getting these to stay in place?
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  #29  
Old 08-21-2009, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebs View Post
Just to confuse everyone more, the 08 Ford service manual states 25 ft lbs for the early build with the black coil boot and 9 ft lbs for the late build with the brown coil boot. So, to be sure what your torque value should be you would need to check the Ford manual for your specific year.
2008 Ford service manual = information for 2008 vehicles. The 08 V10 is a 3v head and uses completely different plugs.
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  #30  
Old 08-24-2009, 03:17 PM
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I had a scan done on my V10 and it said #7 and #9 were misfiring or that the cop's were bad. My father-in-law had to do an emergency spark plug swap for my wife while she was visiting him....man was I nervous because of all that I have read here. He found two plugs that were totally missing the electrodes????? What was that from?

He put 10 new spark plugs in and I've driven it for about 4 - 5K trouble free miles and it's misfiring again. I think I'm going to go ahead an get new coil packs and use the dielectric grease, etc.....should there be anything else that I need to look for?

Where can I go to get the firing order, or a diagram showing the number of each cyclinder?
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