ive got a 1983 F-150 with a 351 W motor and it wont start. ive put in new plugs, wires, battery and ends, solonoid, starter, key switch. i got it started easter sunday after not running for 6 months+ (kinda fitting). I drove it for about 3-4 weeks and it just died as i was driving it and i havent got it started since. im getting fuel, but no spark. please help

 

If you have 12 volts on the coil + with the key on, I would try the ignition module.

 

Thread moved to "221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W V8" forum. Should find more responses to your question here.

 

i dont think im getting any power to my box. i have no idea when it comes to electrics

 

Bubba, I recently had the same trouble with my 460. I looked all over the Duraspark 2 Ignition. My trouble was with the Stator (Distributor pick-up coil). Autozone.com has some pretty good troubleshooting guide on the Duraspark. Some simple things-With key on you should have 6-8 Volts @ Coil terminal marked "Batt", Unplug distrib connector, Black wire is ground, should read 0-1 ohms, Orange to Purple wire should read 600-700 ohms(this is the stator) Orange-Grd, more than 70k ohms, same with Purple-Grd the same more than 70k. The procedures tell you how to check:harness, Module power and Grds, Good/bad coil. The Duraspark is easy to troubleshoot, you can learn it, I did, just last week. Write back if you need help though. barca

 

my distributor has no stator, no pick-ups. nothin. never has and it ran

 

Then you have a Duraspark III System with a Computer. I would suggest that you convert it over to an Duraspark II System.

 

r u sure its DURASPARK III?

 

If the distributor does not have a vacuum line going to it, it's a duraspark III.

 

k
but still, i have no idea when it comes to wiring

 

how hard would it be to convert to a durasparkII?

 

The following was stolen from horsepuller.
I hope he did not mind.

If the computer (ECA) is under the seat it is most likely to be an EEC-III engine.

A few ways to confirm EEC-III:
1. It will be listed as such on the decal on the upper radiator support bracket.
2. The ignition module has a brown grommet.
3. The distributor rotor is disk shaped and has electrodes on both sides.
4. There is no vacuum or mechanical advance mechanism on the distributor.
5. There is a ring with 4 lobes behind the harmonic balancer.

The ECA control's the ignition timing and advance. It gets a signal from a Crankshaft Position Sensor mounted over the 4 lobed Pulse Ring. The CPS is a simple coil wound magnet. If it fails, the engine won't start. You can easily test it in place with an ohm meter. It should test 100-640 ohms. If it tests open circuit, it's failed and is easy to replace.

If someone unfamiliar with this type of ignition did something as simple as change the plug wires without knowing what they were doing, it could make the engine run rough or not at all.

The firing order is normal 351w:
CCW 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

The the order the wires are arranged on the cap is:
CCW 1-5-7-8-6-3-4-2

This is because the EEC-III distributor has electrodes on both sides of the rotor. So it fires alternately from both sides. So even though it's wired in a different order, if you go back and fourth from one side to the other, the firing order is the same.

EEC-III is often misunderstood because it is overshadowed by the greater number of the more simple Dura Spark II ignition. EEC-III (Dura Spark III) is more complex, but is capable of controlling the ignition advance up to a maximum of 50 degrees advance and control the engine more efficiently. It was used in both carbureted and fuel injected engines.

Oh, and yes, there is a relay on the ECA to protect it from reversed battery polarity.

 

what all would i have to do to convert it to duraspark II?

 

You would have to:
1. Change the Distributor to a Duraspark II Distributor
2. Supply a vacuum source to the Distributor.
3. Change Ignition Module to a Duraspark II Module (use a blue one).
4. Change the Vibration Damper to one with Timing Marks.
5. If you do not have a pointer, put one on.
6. Change Carburetor to a non EEC-III controled Carburetor
7. Wire it all together.
8. Change Vacuum sensors and reroute their vacuum lines to the Thermactor Air Bypass and Diverter Valves also the vacuum lines to the Carburetor and Distributor.

Four & Five above are not 100% necessary but makes it much easier to time.

You can get most of this from a truck in a salvage yard, make notes when you take the stuff off.
Some of this stuff you can be your own judge if you need it or not depending on the State you live in and their Pollution Laws.

If you do this and need a Diagram of the Duraspark II just post your needs over in the Electrical Systems/Wiring Forum.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...play.php?&f=62

Good Luck
Bill

 

Just figured this out about 2 hours ago when I swapped 2 & 8 and 3 & 5 and boom, my Bronco's purring. Thought I messed up my vacuum lines as well... This information is not mentioned anywhere in my Haynes manual, you'd think they'd talk about it for ignition timing and firing order.

Thanks for the great info!

-IanCT