fparisi, there is a top cover but is a seperate part. It will keep some dirt out but I don't know if it is really needed. I did install it on mine. The part # is 4C2Z-10A687-AA

 

Often times you can find great deals on the Xantrex site or ebay. I bought a new Xantrex 1200 on ebay for $75.
Just make sure you go with their wire size recommendations.
I got all the stuff for a 2-battery isolated setup for running stuff out the back, using the trailer charging circuit and a solar panel.
Totally isolated from the batts under the hood.

 

Would anybody have the pics for the original post (back in 2005)? They don't appear to be attached to the post anylonger. It's a longshot, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks. Richard

 

Attachments aren't working correctly since the software upgrade, they are being fixed as we speak.

 

I am the original poster, I will monitor this, if the pics get lost, I will repost them.

 

Thanks.

 

Should the pics be back yet?

Thanks.

 

A few other issues came up that put this on the back-burner. I'll will ask again about the status.

 

Thanks. :-)

 

The length of run dictates the size cable you need. The longer the run the higher the resistance of the cable. 1/0 (Pronounced: 1 aught, 2 aught etc..). Aught size wire is the next size larger than AWG. for example: # 4awg, 2awg, 1/0, 2/0 etc..

4awg or 2awg battery cable is typically used in stock configurations because the battery is in close proximity to the starter. With a remote battery being any considerable distance a larger wire should be used to eliminate heating. This can become a safety issue.

It might be a good idea cover the cable in a loom or sheath to help eliminate corossion or chaffing of the cable over time.

 

3.6 KV starter.

Glow plugs.

Compression ignition that needs a fast "crank".


That is a starter motor nearly 2X the size of a gasser.

 

Corrosion is a serious issue.

A loom that does not trap conductive dirt (road salt) is critical.

See here for a cable / length / size required calculator:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8306144

 

Glow plugs on a diesel cycle first, leading to a large draw, then you crank it, the starter is a high torque unit requiring a lot of amps to turn it, even my 83 Suburban 6.2 non-turbo diesel required 1200 amps to turn it over. Not even a 1000 amp battery used as a jump starter hooked to mine when low, was enough to turn it over.
Now I have a wheelchair lift with a large electric motor hooked to a rear battery, with it tied to the front VIA a 4ga wire through a solenoid, when the engine is running, you can read that more than enough amps flow through that 18' 4ga wire, larger is not required!

 

And another post rises from the gloomy depths of the archives.

 

?Do we leave the switches in the ON position all the time, when starting the truck or only when using phone (etc.) port? First time we've had dual batteries and don't know when and how to use them.
Thanks in advance for any help.
p.s. we bought a used F250 diesel and have never had one before