My '97 F150, 4.2L 5-Speed Manual, has about 207,000 miles on it. It still runs well -- 17 MPG Highway new and 17 MPG now. Original clutch, transmission, etc. Only normal wear parts have been replaced.

I have the timing-cover coolant leak. Have since new, but it was so little, I did not even notice it for a couple-three years. The leak has since gotten progressively worse. I tried 2 bottles of BARS which seemed to slow it down, but now it is worse than ever and I want to replace the gasket.

I am considering replacing the timing-chain and gears as well as the water pump while I am at it since it is original. Does anyone have any thoughts about doing these replacements along the way? Also, are there any suggestions as to the best approach to making sure the thing does not leak afterward? I am sure there are a number of posts about this already.

Thanks, Mark

 

Patience! You will need lots of patience! If it were me ide get the new revised gasket kit from Ford.It comes complete with the crank seal too.Also,you might consider changing the oil pump while you're in there.The job can take anywhere from 4 hours up to 6. Good luck!

 

OK. Thanks. I just got done replacing the two IMRC Actuator bushings -- tore up my ribs laying over the front of the truck. 4-6 hours does not sound too bad as long as I don't need to lay on the front edge of the truck

When I was looking at my Haynes manual - for what it is worth, too see about this project, I was kind of wondering about the oil pump.

I do plan to get the gaskets from Ford. Is the kit you mentioned a separate item from just asking for the timing chain cover gasket?

Also, do you think the timing chain and sprockets would be worth replacing? I have heard that they like last forever, but just figured that while I was there.... I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off or major engine trouble whichever comes first.

 

I would do it. I just replaced my clutch at 180,000 mi. , due to the slave cylinder failing. The disc and plate was like new, but I did it anyway, just to save the labor the second time around(my labor). Do it now, and drive with piece of mind, it's worth it's weight in gold.

 

Just ask for the revised timing cover/crank seal kit.
About the timing chain,look at yours to see if the teeth are wore (rounded) and check the chain/tensioner for excessive slack.If all is within spec,leave it alone.If not,change em! Good luck and keep us posted!
BTW,have the lower intake gaskets ever been changed? You might consider changing those if you plan on keeping the truck!

 

Thx for the suggestions. Fortunately, I have another truck to drive so there is no big hurry.

Well, I have all but the timing cover and vibration dampener off. Have it at TDC on #1. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the crank still while removing the center bolt?

BTW, for anyone doing this job, the puller holes are #10 metric.

Mark

 

dont miss the allen bolt at the bottom driver side .and be easy when removing the cover. i would pull the studs out of the block.they get corroded on .have seen times when the bolts wouldnt come out and had to brake the cover off.an Ford did have a recall on resealing the front cover ,but this was a few years back.

 

BlueOval. I have not had the lower intake gaskets changed out. I am aware of the problem with them leaking, but never expected to have this vehicle this long. I keep my eyes peeled for white smoke and the smell of antifreeze when I start.

Does anyone have any idea of how the motor will last? Even at 200,000 the main seals do not seem to be leaking much if at all.

 

Well, I got all the studs loose. The one on the right was touch and go, but came loose. I used some PB on them a few times.

I have all the studs out, nuts off and the allen bolt is removed. The cover is still stuck on there but good. It is loose -- barely. The bottom seems to be hanging in there. I loosened the front bolt on either side of oil pan. I have checked it over and over and do not see anything else holding onto it. Is it normal for it to be such a bear to get off after all the bolts and studs are out? I have pried on it a little to assure myself it is loose, but do not want to break it. Is there a lip on the oil pan that is holding it on or something? The oil-pan bolts I loosened appear to go into the block, not the cover. Ideas?

BTW, a good set of instructions comes with the modified gasket replacement kit. One of the bolts came with thread sealant, but the instructions say two of them need it, so what do you use for this? Nylon thread tape?

Thanks, Mark

 

Go over the bolt removal stage again to make sure "ALL" the bolts are removed! If so,use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the cover to break the seal ! DO NOT PRY ON IT!

 

I did mine 3 weeks ago, good luck.
There is a wide area of silicone gasket that's between the timing cover bottom and oil pan that keeps it "glued" together. Get underneath the truck and a buddy up top to take turns shimmying and malleting. Try not to get the silicone and gasket pieces falling into the oil pan so it doesn't clog the oil pump intake screen.
Vesgra

 

Hi BlueOval, I have it farther off now. I did have to pry on it a little -- not real hard though (I am a former m/c mechanic and know the folly of prying on these covers very much). There is a place near the oil filter assembly that gives something "substantial" that is not part of the mating surface. If I did not pry a little -- there is no way, barring removing the engine, I would get this thing off.

Oh, I did get a heavier rubber mallet than I was using before. Not much room to swing, but this did help kind of break things loose a little.

I believe I know the culprits now -- the gasket position locators. I have the upper half loose and have sprayed some PB into the other hole containing a locator pin. If I had realized these were there, maybe some PB would eliminate or at least the need to pry -- I'll see. Having some fun now!!

Thx again, Mark

 

Vesgra, Sorry, I had not renewed my link. Yeah, it appears to be really stuck down there too. As I told BlueOval, I think my gasket locator pins are a problem too. Was there anything besides the crap in the oil pan to be aware of? How difficult was it to re-install the cam position sensor and where did you get the tool to so it with?

Thanks for any other advice, Mark

 

Vesgra,

Since you just did yours and you didn't say you had any problems, what did you use and how much on the mating surface of the oil pan? Also, did you use anything on your timing-cover/water-pump gaskets? I generally use a tacky spray-on gasket sealer on typical gaskets unless RTV is called for.

Thanks, Mark

 

Well, I took a large Philips screwdriver and stuck it in the lowermost left bolt hole and pried (not very hard) toward the middle of the cover while hitting the loosened upper right part of the cover with a rubber mallet. Came right off -- finally. Maybe this would have helped right from the git-go to get some outward force on it.

Will let you know how I make out putting back together. Mark