...but I would like to get a heads up of problems to look for and things that have apotential to go wrong. The info on the vehicle is as follows. 1991 XLT with a 5.0 motor and automatic transmission. The only problems I know of are that the ignition actuator rod and the transfer case motor not working. The truck already has dual exhaust and larger tires but I will be willing to bet that the gears are still stock.
Being that there is rust around the wheel wells I was contemplating getting into a set Bushwacker cut-out fender flares. Eventually I want to lift it up an put a set of 35's on it. If the 302 craps out I would also like to swap in a '69 351W shortblock I have in a bag, on engine stand.
So any advice, pointers or heads-up is appreciated.

Later,

Paul

 

sounds like a good off road truck, the only things I would look for are general. Check to make sure she sits level for suspension reasons, and make sure you don't have any frame damage from wrecks/rollovers. If you see these things walk away as the truck is probably not worth your time. Other than that good luck and happy wheeling.

 

well first how much they asking? how many miles on it. personally i dont like the electric tcase for that very reason and they always fail period. that right there would make me look somewhere else. also the auto tranny is probably an E4OD which had some issues up till 93 when they upgraded a lot of the internals etc... but if it drives nicely and shifts properly you might be ok. just know that tranny is very expensive to rebuild anywhere from $1800-2500 . look at the front end and make sure its not sagging and all the bushings etc.. look good. unless the price was under a grand i would walk away because the things that need fixed can be a pain and it might sit in your driveway longer then you like.

 

Seller is aking $1,300. I can't remember mileage right now. I always thought the E4OD was a good tranny. I really just wanted it to get 3 kids in child seats, my wife and myself around in the winter. I live far enough out in the country that our roads are plowed next to, if not, dead last. So 4x4 is really desireable. I don't plan on going down the unbeaten path right away but rather just getting it to work reliably. Most I plan on going up against is snow drifted roads for right now. Maybe I should just wait and get visual inspection and not get my hopes up. Any more?

 

For $1300 there's a lot wrong with a 15 year old truck.

If it were me, I'd get one with a 351 in it. I was looking at Broncos a few weeks ago, and test drove a few. Those with 302s seemed to be lacking in power, where the 351 is more of a truck motor and moves 5000lbs around a lot better.

Do find out what tranny it has in it for the reasons Kem states. I have an original 1990 E4OD that still shifts great. Sometimes you never know.

However, I do have $3k set aside to replace that thing when it goes.

 

There's alway room for negotiation. If it meets the critieria you gouys have set forth I might offer him $900 or so. Again, IF. About the repairs, I can do those myself. I have read up on the ign. actuator rod problem here on the board and I am not too worried except about losing my hair from me pulling it out. But I am looking for cheap and reasonably well maintained. I will keep you posted of the results of a test drive and maybe photos if I remember the camera.

Paul

 

Check the red link in my signature for information regarding common problems and concerns about the full-size Bronco.

The E4OD is a good transmission with a lousy service record during the few few years of production. After some of the later improvements, the units were far more reliable and less prone to failure. 1990 would have been year one or two for the E4OD so take that for what its worth. Kem is rigth about the post-1993 improvements. The electronic T-case issues are often just easier to solve by swapping in a manually shifted unit. The Borg-Warner 1356 mounts EXACTLY the same way no matter whether its a manual or electronically shifted unit. Its your prerogative but I'd do some careful inspection into other areas of the truck as well. You have to ask yourself if the two problems you mentioned are the "straws that broke the camel's back" for the current owner.

 

The truck isn't pretty to look at (more rust than expected)(I have pics but have no idea how to post them, help?) but it runs good except for having to work the jury rigged starting system. The frame is solid and the truck sits straight. The majors needs are ignition actuator rod repair, get the 4 wheel drive working, thermostat, and tires. The current set is something like 31x10.5x15 that are on their way out. I would go back to the OEM 235/75/15 until I could afford to lift, tire and gear it properly. I was thinking of offering the seller $700 cash when I get the money up. Does this sound reasonable offer for this truck? BTW, the mileage is 150K+.

Also, can a Bronco fit 3 child seats across the rear bench seat? It looked like it could but I didn't measure to be sure.

Thanks again,

Paul


Grey,

How do I get the manual t-case lever in if there appears to be no hole in the floor for it? How much do electric t-cases go for? manual t-cases?

 

if there are no t-case levers there should be a grommet in the floor for them, pull back the carpet and look around.

With 150K and all the problems that it has I would say that 700 is a good offer. A lot og guys start high and hope that the real offer is a few hundred less than the initial. If you really plan on buyiung it. Bring up the 700 in cash and let him see it. If he wants to bicker about price, tell him that you think it's gonna be a lot of work to fix what's wrong with the 4wd and the ignition actuator rod, and if he won't take 700 then start walking. He might let you leave and then call you later. I wouldn't go much over 850 for this truck. Rust, major repair needed; sounds like you're making a fair offer.