Hey guys, would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006. Any help?

 

Here are the documents you can view to learn about the SEIC:
http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q108.pdf
http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/.../2005/pto.html


The following was originally posted by arcturner, I believe. It's the directions to do this setup:

You will need the following:

1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions

Optional:

1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear


Directions:

Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends)

Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:

Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed


Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.

Happy Hi-Idling!
-------


Also, the 2005 are the same as the 2006 models, at least for the SEIC setup. Also, you can use the orange PTO wire, or you can use the purple/light green charge protect circuit wire. That one will vary the idle from 1200-2400 depending on current draw, in order to keep the battery charged properly. Some have noticed that their RPMs will creep up and up all the way to 2400, slowly, even when the current draw is staying steady. The orange wire locks up the torque converter on the tranny, I believe, but stays at 1200. With the orange, you can also wire in a resistor to make the idle stay anywhere from 1200-2400, and it will stay there and not vary, using the resistor. Also, with a manual tranny, the resistor is required.

Using the first link I posted to Q108.pdf, that should give you everything you need to know, and the post I re-posted should sum everything up nicely on how to do it.

 

Thanks! This worked like a charm. I can now high idle till my hearts content. I love this forum!!

 

Glad I could help!

Which wire did you use, orange or purple/green. If the purple/green, if you leave it high-idling for a while, do you notice the RPMs creeping up at all?

**EDIT** I wonder if it's possible for a mod to add this to the FAQ. It's something that a lot of people want to do, and there are quite a few threads (and even more on other sites) where people are trying to figure out how to do it. Seems like it would save some unnecessary posts and be handy for everyone to reference if it was in the FAQ.

 

Reposting the links I posted in my first post... they don't seem to work properly the way I posted them.

http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q108.pdf
http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/.../2005/pto.html

 

My new 2005 F250 CC PSD FX4 Sport 04/2005 build is going in tomorrow for it's first oil change, 2700 miles. I asked about installing upfitter switches or another switch and activating the High Idle... The service guy wanted to know why I wanted High Idle... I told him so I could let it idle (duh) and I thought I needed to raise the RPM's and the temp etc to prevent wet stacking. He went into the speech about how Ford says not to let it idle for extended periods and how the idle controller is mainly used for wreckers and PTO's. I told him I did alot of city and highway driving, he said to turn it off at each stop, when it's idling it runs the dirtiest. He also said that Ford is saying that people are waiting too long for oil changes. I don't mind every 3000 due to my varied driving. Does the Idle controller prevent wet stacking ? Is he just being a "don't mess with it" service rep ?

Any advice ?

 

I used the orange wire. Didn't want to deal with the idle creeping up. I don't see where this simple mod would cause any issues. Sounds like that service rep is just preaching. Yes, I'd post this mod in the FAQ!

 

i used the purple/green on my '05 manual trans. the idle has not crept up at all. steady 1200rpm all the time it is on.

as for the tech mentioned above, print some literature for him to read on wet stacking. why does ford sell the high idle kit obviously no run time is beter than any runtime. but, when it's 105 degrees out and i need to let it idle so i don't melt when i get back in my truck, i will! just buy a toggle switch at wally world, rat shack etc. and hook that thing up yourself. one of the easiest and cheapest mods to do!

 

Just finished doing this. It's quite easy following the directions ryanverk2 posted above. The only variation was the bolts on my truck are 10mm and I didn't get the tatoo. I used the orange wire (white 'wrapper' on the wire bundle notes it as 'PTO') and connected it to the #4 upfitter switch wire. I didn't even finish my Fosters Oil Can before I was done.

When I flip the switch my idle speed goes to 1200 and then quickly settles to about 1150 rpm.

Thanks ryanverk2, I'll give a wave for you when I pass by the James Dean Memorial on Highway 46 next weekend!

Russ

 

Glad you got it all set up.

And thanks for wavin' for me!

 

Has anyone setup the high idle on a 2004? If so, what wires did you use and where did you mount the toggle switch.

 

On a 2004 or earlier, there's no built in SEIC feature like on the 05/06 models. You'd have to make your own AIC using a potentiometer and switch and a relay, and splicing into a few different wires like the Idle Validation switch, parking break switch, etc. Do a search on "AIC" and you should find some past posts on making your own AIC.

You can also buy the APCM from Ford. It's a unit with an LCD readout and buttons for increasing the idle... has some auto settings, etc. Plugs right in under the dash. Bit more costly than making your own, but much easier.

 

If you go to the 6.0 Diesel Forum and check in the "TECH" folder you will find the link. Here it is though.
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/Other/High..._idle_mod.html

I did this to my 04 with a switch that had a built in LED. You basically simply need a 12 volt source and the wire to the PCM for the PTO to make it work; you'll need a ground if you use a switch that illuminates. I did not use any relays etc.

I mounted mine to the left of the steering column; prewired the switch before installing (as could not get to back of switch once mounted).

Good luck,

Bob

 

has any one put this on a v10 ?

 

How do you know if you have the PTO option on your transmission. If you don't have this option can you still do the mod.