After 1972 ford retarded the crank gear by 4-6%. I have been told both numbers and am still not sure which it was. This was done in order to detune the engine to make the pollution controls in line with what was required. Essentially it detuned the motor.
If you go to your Napa or wherever parts source, you can ask for a 1972 or earlier set of timing gears for a 429 passenger car ( I used a Thunderbird or something like that. They did not have the retard built in the gears and were in fact zero advance/retard. On some sheets they are known as Taxi/Police intercptor gear sets, which did not have to follow the requirements of the time.
If you get them in your hand and look at them (even before leaving the store)you will see the difference. The center of the hole in the cam gear, the timing mark on the tooth, will line up in a straight line with the crank gear timing mark and the center of the hole in the crank gear. The allen keyway will also line up in that fashion. I have a spare set used around here and I should be able to get you a pic of the right timing gears up tonight or tomorrow.
I think the set I bought a few weeks agao cost me like 43 bucks for the timing chain and gears and the gaskets needed were around 30 bucks. I will try to get a pic up here to explain the difference.

 

Thanks Ford truck old boy 460. I understand ignition timing reasonably well but confess I know very little (almost nothing?) about valve timing.

 

This is what ya wanta see for timing gears.



If the keyway on the crank gear does not line up like the photo it is not the right one. The stock ones were out by 4-6 degrees and are the single most unproductive parts on a 460.

 

Sorry had the wife take the pic and mail it to me. The dot and the keyway on the crank gear must be aligned to have the right timing gears, like the pic. If the keyway and the timing mark are not aligned then you have the after 72 gears in it. Someone will correct me if I am wrong but that is how I make it work.

 

i guess i dont really see it like that the hydrogen in a fuel and when run into the engine it thinks its running rich so it leans it out now if the generator were to stop working you would have no hydrogen goin into the engine so it would just run as if you didnt have one right or no

 

If you run it without any other modification you will not have enough of an effect on mileage to make it worth the trouble. Most of the companies that sell these tell you that in order to get the desired results you must "trick" your computer into running lean. The HHO keeps your engine safe. Sudden loss of HHO and you computer will not know automatically re-adjust due to the fact that you have tricked it.

 

I would say go to 3.55's instead of 4.11's because you would end up with better mileage. I got 3.55's and my best mileage is at about 75mph with the rpm's around 2200 rpm's which is where the peak torque is. So the motor doesn't work hard at all. I had the a/c on as well.

 

I know it could be costly, but over long term beneficial so I think I may attempt to:

build a 9inch with the 4.11's with my locker and,

build another 9inch with my 3.00 and a new simple limited slip.

The closest city is 5 hours away, plus multiple trips/year to between alberta-b.c. I think it could be worth while to swap the whole diff assembly out for these trips. The truck is mid restomod-restoration and brake lines were going to be replaced and etc etc. I'm running my own brake lines anyways so I was thinking of possible fittings to allow with an easy interchange.
With my setup, 4.11's at 60 mph is 2110 rpm according to a calculator. 3.00 calculates to 1540 rpm.

Seem like a realistic idea, minus the thought of the initial cost?????

****the 9inch i have currently has the 3.00 with a worn out LS. I already have the 4.11 and 9+ locker.

 

displacement4me: 1000 miles round trip to the nearest city! Wow, that's a major commitment in fuel no matter what diff ratio you could use!
What about buying a $1000 Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla/Tercel and using it every other trip? You could change your name to "smalldisplacement sometimes4me" and save a fortune in fuel...
Heck, the Honda would make great ballast in the bed of your Ford...

 

Thanks Ford Truck oldboy460: the picture is quite clear and now I understand.
Cheers!

 

OK, I am looking at two sets at summit racing. One is a standard link with iron sprockets and under maximum advance/retard it lists none. The other is a double roller with steel sprockets and under maximum advance retard it shows 2 degrees at the cam and 4 degrees at the crank. I was going to get the double roller until I saw the timing part of the description. Which one would be the better set.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
COMP Cams 2122 - COMP Cams Magnum Double Roller Timing Sets - summitracing.com

 

For myself though, it is what it is. I don't need a 460 for mudding or towing, I'm swapping it in because thats what I want. In my opinion, the cost is justified for driving my truck - something I love and would never get rid of. I wouldn't be happy driving an itty bitty car even if it kept some extra change in my pocket.

 

OK, point taken - it's wonderful that we have our freedom of choice! I really enjoy our '76 F250 too but only drive it less than 100 miles per year now. Some of the itty bitty cars you refer to are pretty good performers and get close to 50mpg on the highway - easily 3 times what your big Ford gets I bet. At a dollar per liter, you'd possibly save $175 per 1000 mile round trip to the city.
One of the kicks I get by having both the big Ford and much smaller transport as well, is the contrast between the two. Sometimes end up laughing at the different experience... sort of like riding a bicycle after getting off your motorbike!

Cheers

 

While my 85 F150 (the one getting the 460) is torn apart, I am driving a 2.3L 5spd Ranger. I've calculated 31-34 mpg highway, but there is no power on hand. I can only pass if there is two lanes, and sometimes merging is scary since people aren't willing to open a gap and allow me to. Up steep grades I putt up behind semi-trucks casually --- I too laugh at the experience. This adds part of the emphasis why a fueling a 460 would be better for me, and possibly even safer.

 

You could find an older lincoln and ford 4 door car with a big block. That would save you on fuel and you could put the ranger in the trunk. Passin wouldn't be a problem at all.