Hey Guys,

Its been a while since I have been on here since I just recently completed my last semester of college, and more importantly I didn't have my Bronco at school so I just got back and started driving it. It is a '94 EB 5.0L
Well there have been several small issues that are more annoying that anything else. Then a couple of bigger issues that the shop I had it tuned up at brought to my attention.

The small things are: 1) Gagues, oil gague is reportedly bad(mechanic told me so), Electric gague is bad and has been for a while, The gear indicator doesn't work and hasn't for a long time it is stuck in drive but the gears are fine. And I think the gas gague might be going bad cause it hasn't moved. Pretty much about half of my gagues are or may be shot. Can I just get a new cluseter for the model or should I fix each one? 2) Rear window switch doesn't work right, it will roll the window up but not down. 3) Parking brake broke earlier today, pressed it in to engage but it poped and went all the way to the fire wall. I pulled the release and pulled on the pedal and it came back but the brake isn't working now. I looked and the line was not busted so I think the pedal is but I didn't see any way to remove it. 4) This one doesn't matter but would like to fix it, The overhead console (temp and direction)hasn't worked in a while it will either flicker on and off or just not show up I guess it wiring but I am not sure or I would have fixed it.

Bigger things are exhaust related, I put on Bassani Headers to my exisisting Bassani Y-pipe and I think they work great I can't hear any leaks but the guy at ths shop said pretty much the whole system was leaking. This maybe because I didn't have a torque wrench that could fit in there to retighten after I initially ran the headers, He also said the EGR is leaking where exactly does this originate from before it goes to the Y pipe so I can check it.

I want to get most of this cleaned up and have someother maintance done so I can finish my Virginia Registration requirements becasue my temp tags run out at the end of next month

Sorry for the long one but thanks for any help.

 

If you have multiple gauges out, you may have a ground problem. The parking brake cable is probably broke in the drum. As far as the exhaust goes, You would hear a leak. You should probably grab a Shop manual, either Haynes or Chiltons or boyh.
Al

 

The gear indicator is moved by a small cable that runs from the shifter to the indicator. It is either broke, or disconected. You should be able to get to it by taking off the peice of plastic that covers the fuse panel, it is held in with two torx screws. Take a flashlight a look up in there under the dash. I believe that the cable runs on top of the steering column. I'll try to get a picture.

 

First ground to check is the one need the battery on the fender. Get a toothbrush size wire brush and electrical cleaner and take the ground loose to clean them up. Several of your problems may be dirty connections.

 

If you have exhaust leeking you will see marks ussually black soot stains were it is leaking. If you think they are loose trying tightening them slightly even just 1/4 turn can make a diffrence. second if they are leaking be careful not to drive it without the windows open or the fan on full blast to keep exhaust out of the inside. Gauges are more likely a bad ground or bad sending uint then the gauge itself. Quick easy fix would be some aftermarket gauges plus they are more acurate then the ones ford uses anywyas which are essnetially an idiot light with a flag.

 

If I were to get the Manual gagues for my Voltmeter, Oil Pressure, and Temp where would I install them? I know you can get the A pillar pods but is there anywhere else to do it?

I haven't noticed any sooting from the headers or anywhere but I am going to go through and tighten everything up this weekend just in case. Thanks for the advice so far guys.

 

Others have already given you good suggestions about the gauge and shift indicator issues, so -

2 - The rear window problem is almost assuredly the switch. If you take the switch apart you can fix it by bending the contacts back but it is sort of tricky - if you don't do it just right then it won't go the other way or the key switch in back will be an open circuit and won't work. However, I fixed mine three or four times over four years this way before it finally just wore out and I bought a new one from the dealer. That's probably the best thing for you to do. I paid something like $22 for the switch.

3 - As far as the emergency brake issue - you said that you checked it and that it was not broken, but was it tight and properly routed? What usually happens is that the cable slips out of one of the adjusters or routing points under the truck, and unless you get under the truck and look at it carefully, it will look like it is not broken. It should be taut and properly routed through all of the adjusters and hangers. If that checks out, then it probably broke inside one of the brake drums. You need to check that out, because if there are loose parts rolling around in there then it could cause more problems. And yes, the brake pedal itself could have broken but that is not common. I've never actually seen it happen but anything can break. But it sounds like it is not broken, because it springs back up when you pull the release. However, the part where the cable attaches to the brake lever may have broken off, so the pedal works but does not engage the brake - or the cable may have broken at the end or slipped out of the pedal. In that case, again it would look fine under the truck.

Most e-brake problems occur on automatic tranny equipped trucks where the e-brake is almost never used. It is supposed to adjust itself whenever you back up and hit the brakes, but that only works to a point because most of the time you are not hitting the brakes very hard after reversing. I do two things to keep the e-brake (and rear brakes in general) working properly. Every now and again I back up fast and slam on the brakes, and repeat a couple of times. Sometimes you will actually feel the pedal come up after doing that. And, although not really needed, I put my e-brake on every time that I park in my driveway, which is on a slight incline. So even though my truck has an automatic, the e-brake gets used daily. I also spray some lubricant on the e-brake cable and routing points when I am down there changing the oil.

4 - Your overhead console issue is very likely related to your gauge issue. Nobody can tell you exactly what is wrong because wiring needs to be checked, but staring with the grounds is usually the first step. BTW - I will wager that the problem with the shift indicator is related to someone removing the instrument bezel at one time, when trying to fix the gauges. If you are not careful you can break the cable or have it come out of its groove when you have the bezel off. I've always left the little cable connected when I had reason to remove the whole setup. I currently have problems with my gauges too - my DC voltage gauge stopped working entirely and now the gas gauge did too, although it pops up once in a blue moon. I got some more gauges from the boneyard a few months ago but have not installed them yet. I prefer the look of the factory gauges and would rather repair those then add aftermarket gauges if possible. I know that the factory oil pressure gauge is a joke but it lets me know that there -is- oil pressure and that's good enough for me.

 

There was a recall on some for the parking brake pedal. You may want to do a search or check your dealer. A light oil on the pedal mechanism may help also. I remember something about the pawl being out of alingment and not catching. Mine is fine but I never use it and was shocked when someone pressed it and it went to the floor. He kept moving it up and down until the rear brakes adjusted. Now it works fine and I have 4 wheel brakes again.