new core in radiator, exhaust recirculating "butterfly" not closed, heater not installed so hose from head to water pump had no restriction but blocked it and still overheating, tends to cool off when coasting down a long hill, "boils out" overflow tube with white foam that doesn't seem hot after I stop and turn it off (know that it is normal to heat up and expand after shutting off), heats up at higher speed.

Not aware of effect that incorrect timing will cause especially at higher revs

Will tighten fan belt. squealed once today and is first time that happened. Did have it "loose" so wouldn't wear out bearings and water pump.

engine was rebuilt & has 3K +/- on it so should have been clean inside

hoses not collapsed

Help ! !

Jim (originally Jim Bob but moved to PA from IL 4 mo ago

 

When you say "blocked it" did you connect the to-heater hose to the from-heater hose? or did you simply put a cork or something in each one?

If you corked them off I think that would be causing problems. Besides, as long as the coolant can flow through the heater (I mean if it's not clogged up) the heater will help cool it down.

 

It sounds ike the only thing that you didn't mention is the thermostat. I was thinking that maybe you were just getting funky gauge readings, but if it's boiling out, then it's too hot. And if everything else is good like you say, then I think the thermostat is the only possibility left. I guess there is a way to check them by putting them in hot water with a thermometer and checking to see if it opens at the temp it's supposed to. Is it possible that the new radiator core isn't providing the required coolant flow rate?

 

I bent it in half and wired it so it has blocked the flow of water from the head back to the water pump. Since there is no heater installed it won't help reduce temp. Thanks for your reply. I didn't mention the thermostat but someone else did and it has been tested. JimBob

 

Sorry, I was doing lots of different things today and forgot that. Have tested the thermostat and it was OK. What option do I have as to core size? I haven't heard anyone mention problems before but then again I just moved to PA and don't have anyone to talk with yet. That's why I re-joined FTE again. Thanks for your comments though. I'll keep thinking and waiting on other responses, especially after guys get off work and maybe have time and have had the same problem. JimBob

 

If coolant coming out of the overflow is the only symptom, that may be normal. What does your temp gauge say? Mine overflows everytime I put new coolant in. It's just overfilled a little. After a few days the level gets to the point it doesn't anymore and I leave it until next time I change the coolant. That's been my experience.

 

Hi Jim. Welcome (back?) to FTE. The fellas have already started answering questions - keep firing away and we'll see if someone can help you get the problem solved. Glad to have you aboard.

 

George, not sure how much you saw but I was "JimBob" before and lost my info when I moved to PA. Good to be back! ! You're a great bunch of guys, or I should say experts and technicians. Keep up the good work. Took me a few tries before I found the right pages but have gotten a few replies.

Keep on Truckin'

JimBob

 

Curious about the "white foam" you see coming out. It sounds like radiator cleaner (usually phosphoric acid or similar). Has it been thoroughly flushed?

 

Thought maybe the fan belt was a little loose so tightened it yest and it still heated up at high (55+) speed. Will re-open the "heater" hose (no heater installed now) that runs from the head to the water pump. Since hot water should run from the head thru the heater if installed then back to the water pump not sure what effect not having a heater has on the physics of that water flow. I assume water would be picked up from the lower radiator hose then pushed thru the block and head and the water from the head goes back to the water pump while the rest goes thru the thermostat up to the top of the radiator. Why would you want "warm or hot" water to go back into the water pump, or do I have it wrong?
Will try tomorrow to see if opening up the "heater" hose has helped.
Jim

 

Jim, what is the rempeature running on your 226. Have you emptyed and refilled the radiator lately, I replaced the thermostat/installed temp gauge on my 226 and totally forgot about how they like to trap air in them. Everytime I run it after that it would shoot the temp up to around 200 degrees. Water would be running out the exhaust and the radiator would blow antifreeze out the overflow. I thought it was SBC time till I opened the radiator cap, watched the water flow and realized it was expelling air, not leaking exhaust. Once I got all the air purged out, the water stopped running out the exhaust. And now it goes to 190 when the thermostat opens, then it drops back down to 170-180. The 226 has its own unique way of tricking you into beiieving it's totally destroyed. You have to be on your toes, and one step ahead when troubleshooting one. I see you are in Williamsport, my dad grew up in Renova.

Hope this helps
Rod

 

You don't necessarily have to hook up the heater. just do the by pass with the heater hoses. The one coming off of the water pump should go to the block. Cutting off the flow could be the problem. Also, try taking the thermostat out completely and see what happens. Run the engine while adding the water/antifreeze to make sure you get all of the air out. One other thing. Do you have anything blocking the radiator like a piece of cardboard or something while painting etc... If you do, remove it and see what happens. The card board trick can be used in the winter while ambient(ooooh big word) temperatures are low, but in the summer, it will run an engine hot in a heart beat.

 

Well, I'm back with the same old problem of H226 overheating. Daughter returned from Iraq in Nov and been busy helping her get life back together. Since the last time (8-'05) that I posted it I found I had a blown head gasket in Mar '07 so had the gasket replaced, timing set, etc. Went on a 100 mile trip on back roads mostly Memorial Day weekend but stays cool at anything less than 45 mph unless going up hills. Heat edged up when around 50 and so stoppped and opened radiator cap. There was small foam bubbles in the radiator and coolant level was down some but still above core. If running hot all I have to do is slow down and the temp will come back down.

Question: On the V8 someone said there were "diffusers" in each bank that I assume spread the water thru the block maybe that made sure the complete block and heads were cooled. The diffusers would sometimes corrode away and maybe cause overheating problems. Does the H226 have diffusers? Boring out .060 make the walls too thin and transfer heat too quickly?

My temp gauge has 3 square blocks and two vertical bars between the blocks. i..e. B V B V B. When driving slower the hand stays just to the left of the vertical bar to the right of center block. Have not replaced the gauge or the sending unit since the engine was bored out .060, cleaned, rebuilt, etc. Sometimes had problems starting so would use a 121v to jump start. Not sure if that would cause the gauge / sending unit to read incorrectly. Nevertheless, it increases when running at higher speeds and is losing water also. Probably 5K since the engine rebuilt and core replaced. Doesn't boil over when the cap removed or when I stop and let it run.

Exhaust butterfly still has no spring so may flap around at higher speeds?? Not sure about air pockets in block since radiator filled completely before starting vs filling while running.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Jim

 

check your radiator cap
my stock truck with a new cap kicked out antifreeze
you only have a 4lb cap
it was loose on the radiator puting less force on system (lower boiling point)
bent the tabs on cap it helped
also using a COOL IT additive helped water temp
Joe

 

Just two thoughts (longshot)

Plug Check - How lean are you running ? If the plugs are way overheated, make the jet changes.

Ignition Timing - The worst overheating problem I ever had was a replaced (incorrect) harmonic balancer (or timing mark indicator). I set the timing and it was too retarded. Ran so-so but got so hot it spewed antifreeze every time. Sometimes the outside ring of old Balancers move and they give bogus indications as to TDC is.

Do a real TDC check and see where your balancer really is.

Not much help I know - Good Luck