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You either have a left caliper that doesn't work or a right one that is seizing/sticking. First thing you should do is make sure your caliper sliding/mounting surfaces are cleaned and lubed.
You either have a left caliper that doesn't work or a right one that is seizing/sticking. First thing you should do is make sure your caliper sliding/mounting surfaces are cleaned and lubed.
what if rotors, both calipers and pads are all new? same size tires and air pressure the same.
what if rotors, both calipers and pads are all new? same size tires and air pressure the same.
Are you experiencing the same problem? If all compnenets are new It still could be a caliper mounting problem or even a master cylinder problem. another thing I forgot to mention to the original post is a line that is restricted.
Multiple postings are a bit of a no-no here. Your question will get answered no matter where you post it. Many people read more than one forum.
Like I said, replace the calipers (BOTH), and the hoses as well. Make sure the slides are in good shape and lubed properly, and see if it pulls. If it does, it's probably the tires or alignment.
In this I want to replace bolth capilers right? Should I replace the break pads while I'm at it?
Don't replace anything until you pinpoint the problem, otherwise you could nickel and dime yourself to death. first get those front wheels off and check your
caliper mounting surfaces also check condition of brake pads. If surfaces are dirty(mounting surfaces not friction) clean with wire brush and blow off, lube with light grease (synthetic). if this doesn't solve it raise the front of the vehicle and spin the tires by hand and see if one side has more drag than the other, if nothing is detected after doing this aplly the brakes and relaes and recheck wheel rotating drag (by hand) if one wheel is now notciably tighter than the other you have either a sticking caliper piston or a brake line that in't allowing
pressure to release and to determine which one is at fault loosen bleeder screw on side that is tight (careful not to break it) now if the wheel spins freely it is a line problem if it does not it is a caliper problem. If it passes that test you probably have a master cylinder or brake pad problem.
Don't replace anything until you pinpoint the problem, otherwise you could nickel and dime yourself to death. first get those front wheels off and check your
caliper mounting surfaces also check condition of brake pads. If surfaces are dirty(mounting surfaces not friction) clean with wire brush and blow off, lube with light grease (synthetic). if this doesn't solve it raise the front of the vehicle and spin the tires by hand and see if one side has more drag than the other, if nothing is detected after doing this aplly the brakes and relaes and recheck wheel rotating drag (by hand) if one wheel is now notciably tighter than the other you have either a sticking caliper piston or a brake line that in't allowing
pressure to release and to determine which one is at fault loosen bleeder screw on side that is tight (careful not to break it) now if the wheel spins freely it is a line problem if it does not it is a caliper problem. If it passes that test you probably have a master cylinder or brake pad problem.
Check the e-brake cable at the juntion under the drivers side bed just rear of the cab. its where one cable goes into a bracket and two come out and head to the rear. If one rear brake is stuck on that bracket will not be straight up and down and one rear brake will work a whole lot better than the other causing a pull.
Don't forget to check your radius arm bushings. I had one go bad and when I would brake the truck would pull to that side. Doesn't cost anything to check.