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Help! I need advice on rotors!

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  #16  
Old 07-20-2005, 01:47 PM
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what makes me wonder.......If the rotors were warped once, then turning them makes them thinner than before, so the heat of the pads would make them warp again...only quicker...any thermal dynamics book will teach you this. Turning the rotors is only a band-aid, and one that will last less than the last time this was done, or when they were new.......don't put up with this non-sense!
 
  #17  
Old 07-20-2005, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by azfordowner
4.6 ranger - Are you a ford tech? If so can you fill us in on what the rack/pinion has to do with this brake vibration issue? I read in a post a few days ago about a guy who had the rack/pinion adjsuetd and it solved some of the vibration. I'm not a mechanic so I'm lost on this one.

Thanks
Whtevr You are correct the most current tsb is 05-6-21 on trucks built before
11/18/2004 you replace the rotors. On trucks built before 8/20/03 you also replace the steering rack. The new part numbers are as follows.
4x2 6 lugs 5L3Z-1102-AA 4x2 7 lugs 5L3Z-1102-BA 4X4 6 lugs 5L3Z-1125-AA
4x4 7 lugs. 5L3Z-1125-BA. these are the most current rotor numbers as far as
i am aware.

azfordowner. The rack also has been updated. I have heard of techs adjusting them. What they change is the amount of preload on the selector shaft. There is a large nut where the steering shaft attaches to the rack. this is where they adjust them. Not sure what changes have been made to the update rack. I haven't had to do one myself. I think the older ones were adjusted too loose causing a side to side roatational movement of the wheel when braking. Hope this helps. Not sure if i explained it very well
 
  #18  
Old 07-20-2005, 08:21 PM
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If I were to guess what the problem is with the rotors I would say they don't have the proper heat-treat. With the '04 being about 500 lbs. heavier and the brake design probably unchanged for several years, I could see why some of you have warped rotors.

It is my opinion that warping is caused by keeping the brake pedal depressed after a hard stop or several hard stops. I wonder if a driver could release most of the brake pedal pressure after a stop but still have the pedal slightly depressed just enough to keep the truck from moving - would that be enough to eliminate rotor warping? I haven't tried it personally, but let me tell what I do instead. I do one of two things depending on the situation. After a hard stop I either put the truck in neutral and set the parking brake or I stop 20 feet early and crawl to the line. Knock on wood. With 40,000 on the odometer and being one of the hardest "brakers" west of the mississippi - not the slightest vibration while braking.

Just my 2 cents.
 
  #19  
Old 07-20-2005, 11:18 PM
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4.6 ranger - Thanks for the explaintion. Is there any validity to the theory that the virbation issues are primarily on the Lariat Screws? It seems that most of the posts are by people who have lariats
 
  #20  
Old 07-20-2005, 11:51 PM
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Could also be a simple problem of improper and uneven torquing of the lug nuts. Years ago I had one of my other car's rotors warp after some monkeys used an impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts after getting new tires put on. I ultimately had to replace it completely. Since then, I always retorque the nuts myself with a torque wrench immediately after getting home. Never had an issue since.
 
  #21  
Old 07-21-2005, 02:37 AM
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Thanks everyone!

I just got my truck back from the dealer for this issue. They said nothing could be done; it is normal wear and tear. I said that I thought the pads should fail before the rotors (the pads are still stock). Apperantly, according to the mechanic, that is not the case. Should I buy that line?

I have 28,000 miles now. At 10,000 miles I had the same issue and the dealer machined the rotors. If I'm reading this thread correctly, they should have replaced them, right?
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2005, 07:05 AM
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Yes, they should replace them. Go to a different dealer's service dept.
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:28 AM
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Greenroses - The dealer is being dishonest. best bet is to visit another dealer.
 
  #24  
Old 07-21-2005, 07:13 PM
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Brake rotors.

Ok guys before you call the dealer dishonest. You have to look a little deeper
The first Tsb on brake vibration was 4-26-11 this was replaced by 05-05-02
this was replaced by 05-6-21. Tsb 4-26-11 came out on Dec-21-2004.
I check drifters vin number his front rotors were cut on Sep 28 2004 with 6471
miles on it. The tsb wasn't even out then. So the tech was only following standered proceeders. In addition ford just came out with a ssm stating if
the vehicle has brake shudder and the latest rotor per tsb 05-6-21 have been installed to cut the rotors with the on car lathe. This came out on 6-15-2005.

Drifter I ran your vin # Brake rotors are not covered under your esp. So you
may be out of luck. I believe but don't quote me. that rotors are only covered
for 12 months 12k. I dont deal with warrenty so i can't be completely sure.
You can point out to the dealer that the truck was in before at 7000 miles
and they might give you a brake (no pun intended.) Best bet is to buy updated rotors and install yourself or have a friend do it. it really easy two 10 millimeter bolts.

azfordowner Can't say that lariats are worse i have seen a lot of brake vibrations on all the new F150's.

Aquaman. So true it is very important to have proper lug nut torque. The 19 mm lugs are torqued to 100 Ft. lbs and the new trucks with 21 mm lugs are torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
 
  #25  
Old 07-21-2005, 09:39 PM
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Thanks 4.6 Ranger. Bad news, but at least it is honest, and unbiased. Also, you are right about the 12k warranty. I found out the hard way. I do not blame the service tech. I know he was just doing his job, but after shelling out 38k for a truck, I don't think I should be putting money into it in a year. You would think Ford would want to keep me as a customer even if it cost them a few bucks. Thanks again for looking out for me!
 
  #26  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:10 PM
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rotors

Drifter. I hear you. With the price of these new trucks upwards of 40k
you would think that the quality would be better. I deal with this ever day
explain to a customer why his year and a half old truck needs $400 worth of
brake work. You have a right to be upset. I know that it is piece of machinery
and it wears out. But the amount of repairs that are need at 30K miles is insane
I put less money in my 94 F150 with 141K on it. It really comes down to a quality issue with Ford and faulty parts. Thanks for taking it easy on your service department. We need more customers like you. I understand where
your coming from but so many people take out there fustration on the service
department or the tech. Sorry about your bad luck and I hope you can get it
straighted out. Once Ford gets the brake vibrations, Rear end chatter, and
tire vibrations fixed there have a nice truck. Thanks again for trying to understand. If i just paid 40 grand for a "NEW" truck I would be the same way.
 
  #27  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:21 PM
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I wish all service depts. had guys like you working in them 4.6 dude. At least if things are explained this honestly and thoroughly, inlcuding the VIN check on prior work, things would go a lot smoother with regards to the denying of warrantied repairs.

Drifter, I second the motion to get your new rotors, get ceramic pads, and do the work yourself, if you can. Brakes aren't hard to do and this way you'll know exactly what was done to remedy the problem. Good luck!
 
  #28  
Old 07-22-2005, 04:56 PM
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The problem with turning rotors that got warped because of heat is that the exact warp will return in a short time after the cut. I learned about this after having similar problems on a 99 Chevy Suburban. I am having the same problems with my 04 150 as I did with the Sub but haven't brought it in yet. Hopefully, it is not a design problem like there was with the Suburban. On those vehicles, the best solution was going to composite rotors. Hope we don't have to go the same route with these.


I heard the new Nissan Z cars are having similar problems with rotor warpage.
 
  #29  
Old 07-22-2005, 08:44 PM
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4.6 ranger - I just spoke with the service tech today, and was also told that the newest TSb instructed the techs to cut the most updated rotor. pretty suprised as ford was so against touching the rotors in earlier tsb's.

I was also told that I need rear brakes. Is it common for the rear's to go so soon? I only have about 21k on the truck. The costs would be around 400 bucks. I recall my pre 04 screws having the front brakes go at 30k, and rears at about 45k. I'm pretty disspointed as I buy new trucks each year to avoid any type of service work other than gas/oil. The service tech/manager are good guys so i no doubt need the service, I quess I'm just a little shocked.

It seems that ford may have lost focus on the objective here, It is one of the smoothest riding trucks out, but at what costs? I would definately trade some of the smoothness and ridabalility(sp) for a little more durability any day. I mean it is a truck, if I wanted a car I would have bought one.

Will I buy a new ford again, most likely yes. I quess with new technology comes new problems.

Ranger, thanks for the responses. No often do you see a guy take his profession home with him and discuss it on the net. Your a great asset to this board.
 
  #30  
Old 07-23-2005, 12:36 AM
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az, did you ever notice how small the braking surface is on the rear rotor. It's a large diameter rotor but the contact surface for the pads is real shallow. Granted the rears take less stress from braking, this is still a HEAVY beast. Maybe this is also a reason for persistent front brake problems as well.

I agree that ford should have invested more time in durability. Between the brake problems, the early axle problems, the rough idling engines, it seems there is room for improvement. I think they'll work these bugs out over the next few model years, just in time for a redesign.
 


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