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I'm about to change the oil for the first time in my truck. I know Ford recomends 5w-20 semi-synthetic but I'm having trouble finding it, believe it or not. I can easily get 5w-30 (Castrol Syntec Semi-Synth.) and thought this should be fine in weather above 80. My old Ford always said to go up one weight in summer months (ie. 10w-30 to 10w-40) I can't see anywhere in the manual to use anything other than 2w-20. Does anyone out there have any input on this??
I will run an oil analysis on each of these @ work to check the wear properties but just didn't know if there was anything special about the V-10 that would warrant using this light grade in summer months.
I am in very hot Central texas and have no issues against the "light weight 5W20" and heat.
That said... there is no compelling reason NOT to use the locally available 5W20s synth or semi synth but as NoMo says (and your particular problems with THAT truck) be ultra conservative about following Fords recommendations about weight and spec.
You already had enough grief so do not give Ford an excuse to bail on you in the future over something as simple as improper oil weight even though we may well agree that the differences between 5W20 and 5W30 are not critical or have any potential for increased wear or damage.
Your motor runs at the same temperature summer and winter. That is what a thermostat does. The oil is affected by temperature when the motor is shut down and a lower first number ( the "W" stands for winter ) makes the oil flow easier in cold weather so it gets
to the moving parts quicker. The older motors needed heavier oil for proper lubrication and running the lighter oils in the winter months was hard on them . Not so with a modern gas engine. Honda, the largest motor manufacturer in the world has found that 5-20 will give their gas motors good fuel economy and very long life. Ford , the maker of the best gas motors you can buy in a real pickup , has found the same thing to be true. The myth of heavier oils protecting a vehicle more in hot weather is one of the urban legends that is very hard to kill. Trust me on this, Your motor doesn't care if it is 100 degrees hot outside or 40 below zero, your thermostat will determine the temp. your motor runs at. Take care, Wrenchtraveller
I full agree with you wrench except for cold start conditions... on the other hand todays multi viscosity stuff usually has the consistency of water way down to zero degrees so I am just splitting nits (grin).
You are right and I have ruined too many Harley bottom ends by thinking if 30W was good then 60W must be better... cold start no flow ate my lunch and the bottom ends cost me a lot to re-furb before I got edjumakated.
Another thing most of us old school fellers keep forgetting is the very different design of these modular engines... there are NO BABBIT moly, beryllium, steel crush and squish bearings in them! Almost every rotating surface rides in an Aluminum bearing... oil weight, additive packages, and flow is much more critical now then ever before.
Your motor runs at the same temperature summer and winter. That is what a thermostat does. The oil is affected by temperature when the motor is shut down and a lower first number ( the "W" stands for winter ) makes the oil flow easier in cold weather so it gets
to the moving parts quicker. The older motors needed heavier oil for proper lubrication and running the lighter oils in the winter months was hard on them . Not so with a modern gas engine. Honda, the largest motor manufacturer in the world has found that 5-20 will give their gas motors good fuel economy and very long life. Ford , the maker of the best gas motors you can buy in a real pickup , has found the same thing to be true. The myth of heavier oils protecting a vehicle more in hot weather is one of the urban legends that is very hard to kill. Trust me on this, Your motor doesn't care if it is 100 degrees hot outside or 40 below zero, your thermostat will determine the temp. your motor runs at. Take care, Wrenchtraveller
Good one Wrench, the thinner oil actually helps cool the engine better also. As a kid when a car had 100K on it there was not much life left in it. Engine technology and lubricant tech wasn't anywhere near what we have today. Engines are built to much tighter tolerances than before. Metals are high tech, hemi heads, superchargers, turbos, 7 speed automatics, it's crazy, but all that technology demands better lubricants, better coolants and gets us longer maintenance intervals. My 110K mile V-10 runs darn near as well as it did at 10K. I expect 300K out of it, and it lives a hard life at times.
I there are NO BABBIT moly, beryllium, steel crush and squish bearings in them! Almost every rotating surface rides in an Aluminum bearing... oil weight, additive packages, and flow is much more critical now then ever before.
HUH !?!?!?!?!?! No babbitt ? How the heck then,,, I don't get it, now you hasta esplain Lucy, please.
OK, 5w-20 it is! Now one more question while we're in the slick of things. Whats the "S" designation on the oil filters? I've seen some catalogs that list the oil filter without the S and some that do for the same manufacturer.
The "S" stands for silicone check valve that keeps the oil in your filter so every time you start the motor you do not have to fill an empty filter. Out V10s have a vertical filter as all good engine designs do and this allows you to fill the filter with oil before you install it.
I still believe a vertical filter should stay full without a check valve but I remember reading a post on how a vertical filter can be syphoned out but the reasons and science behind this post were over my head. The Motorcraft filter for our trucks is an excellent filter and can be purchased for bargain prices at some auto parts dealers and Wallmart use to sell them for under 3 bucks . I have 6 of them in my garage bought by my Dad in Yuma Arizona for 2.75 . I used to pay 38 bucks for the paper element to fit my state of the art Pop-up filter housing for my 04 sick litre PSD . Man, does Ford ever treat the diesel buyer like a Patsy . Take care, wrench.
The Motorcraft filter for our trucks is an excellent filter and can be purchased for bargain prices at some auto parts dealers and Wallmart use to sell them for under 3 bucks . Man, does Ford ever treat the diesel buyer like a Patsy . Take care, wrench.
Good news, I was standing in the local Wally world last night having my 5th set of tires installed and watching the tire tech work that slowly was actually getting painful, 3.5 hours to change 4 tires. Please, I must move on, let go Ken, let it go. Anyway as I walked by the oil rack for the 14th time I asked the guy who was standing there why WalMart quit carrying Motorcraft. He said it was Ford who pulled the plug, but that Ford was coming back home to roost and he had gotten his first case of Motorcraft oil in that very day. So I asked him to make sure he got plenty of the FL 820S filters in. He said they were very popular and definitely would have them soon, Ken
That's the only reason I would go to Wally World, did happen to find Mobil 7500 (5w-20 semi-synth) there for 2.05/qt. Unfortunately I live in the most densly populated state in the Union and can't find 5w-20 Semi at an Auto store. What's up with that??
doug
thats you and i both and sussex county is ford country. i would need to go to walley world for it. but since what we use at work meets and carry's a ford lable it gets it, with my dealers ok.
So Walmart is getting MC back? I guess that's good, I am down to 60 quarts and 18 filters I didn't know how long the MC would be missing from their shelves, so I stocked up. That's the only thing I ever buy there anyway.
Our local Autozone has MC 5W20 in stock. They used to get $1.79/quart, 27 cents higher than Walmart. Once it disappeared from Walmart's shelves, AZ jacked the price to $2.29...and I think either $2.39 or $2.49 now.
How much do the dealers sell it for? Couldn't be anymore than AZ. Of course I may have too much faith in them, they might get 3 buck a quart for it