Another day another questoin.....
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Another day another questoin.....
Ok, I thought this would be a easy fix but I am getting ticked. My '85 351 4V has a electric choke and it never comes off on its own. I checked for power on the wire going to the choke and it has none. I followed the wire and it goes to a relay on the fire wall next to the brake booster, I replaced the relay and it didn't help, still no power, there is power going to the relay but maybe that is for something else.
I gave up tring to make the electric part work and tried running a metal tube from the choke to the exhaust manifold (like older Fords had), the choke has vacum and is sucking up the hot air but the choke never seems to heat up, so It still doesn't come off.
Any ideas? please help if you can
Mark-
I gave up tring to make the electric part work and tried running a metal tube from the choke to the exhaust manifold (like older Fords had), the choke has vacum and is sucking up the hot air but the choke never seems to heat up, so It still doesn't come off.
Any ideas? please help if you can
Mark-
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Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,525
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Another day another questoin.....
The choke wire should be WHT-BLK,and,is tagged on to the "S" stator wire between the alternator and voltage regulator.Being the wire is on the stator side,you will get AC voltage,which will not show up on a digital meter set to the DC range(unless you got a fancy Fluke or somethin'),but it should light up a test light.If you still have no voltage,simply repair the break in the wire or run a new one from the "S" stator terminal.You must also spray the choke linkage on the exterior of the carb to remove sludge.These things have a small weight that cannot overcome the slightest amount of sludge.Also,you should adjust the tension on the choke in the morning,while holding the throttle open,to close the blade and then one more notch.Hope this helps!
Phillip
Phillip
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Another day another questoin.....
my wire is black and greyish, and I follower it to a relay on the fire wall, next to the brake booster, the relay shows up on the meter but not on the wire, anywere, and I replaced the relay!
Also the '85 has rivets holding the choke thingy, should I just drill them out and install screws?
Also the '85 has rivets holding the choke thingy, should I just drill them out and install screws?
New User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 11
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Another day another questoin.....
Hi, Mark, no need to remove the rivets unless you want to replace the choke. If it's the kind I'm thinking it is, it's just a coil that heats up, bends and eventually pulls the choke off. You might have crud on the connections, or the coil piece could be bad enough that maybe it's grounding somewhere? I had a carb rebuilt and the first thing the guy asked about it was with the choke; I kinda mangled it trying to get one rivet out; charged me $50 just for the choke, (be careful!)
New User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 18
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Another day another questoin.....
Mark,
I haven't seen the relay you're talking about. I stick to older Fords. Anyway, If you know a little about electric schemadics, there should be one on the side of the relay. This could tell you if the wire is in the wrong slot on the relay. If you have already done this and still no power to the relay anywere, you can use the wire that is running to the relay. This is provided that it is turned off when you shut the key off and turned on when you turn the key on. How your choke gets hot is by the current from the wire when you turn your key to the "ON" position. Theorrtically, by the time your engine has warmed up, the spring inside your choke will expand thus moving the butterfly flap on your carb or throttle botty whichever you have. I know this isn't the correct way to fix it, but it will definetaly get you through the winter. Most older Fords with electronic chokes work on this principle. I hope this helps.
Dennis
I haven't seen the relay you're talking about. I stick to older Fords. Anyway, If you know a little about electric schemadics, there should be one on the side of the relay. This could tell you if the wire is in the wrong slot on the relay. If you have already done this and still no power to the relay anywere, you can use the wire that is running to the relay. This is provided that it is turned off when you shut the key off and turned on when you turn the key on. How your choke gets hot is by the current from the wire when you turn your key to the "ON" position. Theorrtically, by the time your engine has warmed up, the spring inside your choke will expand thus moving the butterfly flap on your carb or throttle botty whichever you have. I know this isn't the correct way to fix it, but it will definetaly get you through the winter. Most older Fords with electronic chokes work on this principle. I hope this helps.
Dennis
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Another day another questoin.....
I fixed it!!! It was a wire from the relay I mentioned to a temp sender, it had hit the fan on the alternator and cut it in half. I just spliced it back togeather, crossed my fingers and started it up. It worked! Thanks everyone!
Mark-
Mark-
