Installation of front inner fenders.
#1
#2
You should be able to install the inner fenders without removing the outer fenders. We replaced a set on my friends 53 Truck. He made his own out of sheet metal but I would think it's the same procedure. It's basically a bolt in operation from underneath and on top. Where did you get your stainless one from? I've been planning to replace my inner fenders with the stainless ones.
#3
Delzell -
If your new inner fenders have slots (or large holes) where they attach to the outer fender, you can mock everything up without the outer fenders. Your hood should also be part of the mock up so you know you have a good fit at the cowl.
The CRITICAL part is that everything is square to the cab, beginning with the radiator support. It must be parallel to the firewall and centered on the cab. The whole front sheet metal is supported by and attaches to it.
Personally, having had the front of mine apart a few times, I would hang everything together and jockey all for the perfect fit and gaps, especially between the hood/fenders and the hood/cab. You'll be surprised how long that can take. Then drill some 1/8 dia holes between mating parts (inner/outer fenders; inner fender/cab angle; inner fender/air dams; air dams/radiator support) so that after you disassemble and reassemble, everything comes back exactly to that perfect fit. I learned that little trick here, and it will be especially valuable after all the parts are painted and you want to avoid scratches.
If your new inner fenders have slots (or large holes) where they attach to the outer fender, you can mock everything up without the outer fenders. Your hood should also be part of the mock up so you know you have a good fit at the cowl.
The CRITICAL part is that everything is square to the cab, beginning with the radiator support. It must be parallel to the firewall and centered on the cab. The whole front sheet metal is supported by and attaches to it.
Personally, having had the front of mine apart a few times, I would hang everything together and jockey all for the perfect fit and gaps, especially between the hood/fenders and the hood/cab. You'll be surprised how long that can take. Then drill some 1/8 dia holes between mating parts (inner/outer fenders; inner fender/cab angle; inner fender/air dams; air dams/radiator support) so that after you disassemble and reassemble, everything comes back exactly to that perfect fit. I learned that little trick here, and it will be especially valuable after all the parts are painted and you want to avoid scratches.
#4
Good luck on the install. I put a new set on two years ago from Mid-Fifty. After a week of measuring and trial fitting, I did have to trim about 3/4" off end of each inner fender. I believe that the 56 inner fenders are about that much longer than the 53-55 model. I'll be back in town on Friday if there is anything I can help with. Note: do not remove the plastic coating until the install is done. Jag
#5
#6
I have started the inner fenders. It looks like I may have to trim some of the inner fenders. Does this cause a problem where they mount at the air deflectors up front?
Four freinds started to help me today. None of them them felt you were right. I had the entire front end together and it just wouldn't go in. Had to politely as posseble tell them I have heard I have heard it is easiest to fit the inner fenders not attached to everything else. So I do have the inner fenders on but it does look like I'll have to cut some down tomorrow. Just wondered if that causes a problem?
Four freinds started to help me today. None of them them felt you were right. I had the entire front end together and it just wouldn't go in. Had to politely as posseble tell them I have heard I have heard it is easiest to fit the inner fenders not attached to everything else. So I do have the inner fenders on but it does look like I'll have to cut some down tomorrow. Just wondered if that causes a problem?
#7
Del -
Assuming that your new custom inner fenders bolt up the same way the old ones do, the trimming should happen at the rear of them where most of the joint is covered by the cab attach angle.
The most critical thing about it is that the flange on the front of the inner fender establishes the air dam location. The air dam also has to mate with the radiator mounting frame. If the length of the inner fender pushes the radiator frame too far forward, the outer fender won't go on properly either.
If the radiator frame is where it always was, you cold just put the inner fenders on and use a straightedge accross the face of the inner fender flanges and measure to the radiator frame for how much to remove. If you aren't sure that the radiator frame is where it needs to be, mock ip everything and measure then
The rear attach angle and some oversize holes there will give you enough adjustment even if the inner fender trim isn't perfect, as long as its not too long.
Assuming that your new custom inner fenders bolt up the same way the old ones do, the trimming should happen at the rear of them where most of the joint is covered by the cab attach angle.
The most critical thing about it is that the flange on the front of the inner fender establishes the air dam location. The air dam also has to mate with the radiator mounting frame. If the length of the inner fender pushes the radiator frame too far forward, the outer fender won't go on properly either.
If the radiator frame is where it always was, you cold just put the inner fenders on and use a straightedge accross the face of the inner fender flanges and measure to the radiator frame for how much to remove. If you aren't sure that the radiator frame is where it needs to be, mock ip everything and measure then
The rear attach angle and some oversize holes there will give you enough adjustment even if the inner fender trim isn't perfect, as long as its not too long.
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#8
I'd like to install a set of those Stainless inner panels, however I heard they are very difficult to align and install. I don't want to remove the fenders etc just for the simple fact of scratching, breaking off paint or damaging body parts, just to put new panels on. If I get a set of stock panels off another truck, do you still have to remove sheet metal and measure to replace them?
#9
Ed -
Stock inner fenders are already sized to fit without trimming. I'm not sure why the stainless are oversize.
I think it might be possible to remove and install inners without removing other sheet metal, but the size of them make them hard to wheel around without whacking something else. Chipping the paint on something would still be problematic.
Mine look like they could come out thru the wheelwell (with the wheels off) easier than the engine compartment because of the way they are captured by their cab attach angles.
Obviously, I haven't tried this myself.
Stock inner fenders are already sized to fit without trimming. I'm not sure why the stainless are oversize.
I think it might be possible to remove and install inners without removing other sheet metal, but the size of them make them hard to wheel around without whacking something else. Chipping the paint on something would still be problematic.
Mine look like they could come out thru the wheelwell (with the wheels off) easier than the engine compartment because of the way they are captured by their cab attach angles.
Obviously, I haven't tried this myself.
#10
imlowr2, I'm not sure about stock inner fenders but couldn't you see if you can safely remove one? If you can then that should answer that question. But I can't see any way that I could have fit my stainless inners without taking the fenders and air deflectors off. They weren't so hard to align after cutting them, as mentioned above. R.J.s [How to] suggestions above are right on. Wayne
#11
I may have to try and take my inners out. Either way, I need to replace them. I believe the PO cut them with a torch to fit fender well headers, or cut them because the truck had a one piece front end at one time or the other. I still love the look of the SS one, but I may have to settle for original. Thanks for the advice guys.
#12
#13
I would not attempt to replace the inner fenders with the outer fenders in place. The SS units require a lot of pushing to get them in place and to hold them while somebody else puts in the front bolts to hold them in place. This pushing would all have to be from under the outer fenders! That's right, you've entered the "Outer Fender Zone." Do not attempt to adjust your computer monitor. We control the vertical...We control the horizontal.. So, sit down as we explore the "Outer Fender Zone." (In my best Rod Serling voice.) Jag
#14
#15
Sorry Fergie, this is the best view I have. I didn't think to take a picture before I put the fenders on. But if you moubnt the back flange loosely and then push the front toward the inside until those holes line up with the holes on the horse collar, you'll be in the right position. It's best to have somebody there to install the bolts when you are pushing. Jag