Need help on this one. This has happened 3 times now in 1 week.

1st time, started up from cold OK, let idle, in about 20 seconds or so it starts to idle rough (for about 10 seconds) and almost dies with just a bit of black smoke out exhaust, then recovers and all was OK, ran great after that and on road with power.

2nd time, started up from cold (after setting for 1 hr), I moved out OK then in about 50 feet it starts running rough (for about 10 seconds) like it's going to die, then finally it's OK and runs fine and with power. It was dark and could not see if smoke or not.

3rd time, started up from cold OK, I moved out of drive about 30 feet and it starts running rough (for about 10 seconds) and finally did die. I waited again and tried to start and would not for 5 seconds or so, I tried again after waiting about 10 secs, and it would not start, then after a few seconds more, I tried and started it. It was dark and could not see if smoke or not.

On both the 2nd and 3rd case, asking for more fuel did nothing.
My fuel filter is about 3 weeks old.

What should I check first??

 

I need to give more info on truck since my sig did not update from changes I put in this am.

2000 F350 XLT 7.3 PSD 6 Speed DRW
Banks Stinger Plus

 

Powerstrokes will run rough if there is a problem with the HUEI system, whether it be a failed ICP (Injection Control Pressure) Module, weak or leaking High Pressure Oil Pump, or an injector which is faulty. The best thing to do would be to get it to a shop where they have the equipment to plug in and test the system and see if the fuel delivery system is functioning correctly. The pump may be delivering the proper pressure at startup and idle, but once the demand is changed the pressure won't rise to suit the demand. If the ICP is bad or the wires are damaged, it won't allow the oil delivered by the pump to rise to a higher pressure. If an injector is bad, the engine will run very rough, and may continue to run on after shutting the engine down, puking out tons of black smoke.

 

Marcus,
Thanks for the input. I may have to take it somewhere depending on what I can determine on my own. I would like to check the basic things myself. I think the alternator and batteries should be good since it starts up initially.

 

Does this problem happen every time you start it, or just after it's been sitting for a while? My first thought is the anti-drainback valve is letting the HPOP reservoir drain.

 

Cookie,

This has happened only 3 times in 8 days and I have started it from cold about 15 times in the 8 days. Would the anti drain back on the HPOP be intermittent like that?

 

No, probably not, but it can't hurt to check it. Remove the plastic "powerstroke" cover from the engine to gaon access to the 1/4" plug in the top of the reservoir..the oil level should be within 1" of the top. Check the dipstick too, low engine oil or a failing low pressure pump can cause hard starts.

Use a length of tubing from the fuel filter drain to a clear container, then open the drain and cycle the key....fuel should run in a steady stream for approximately 20 seconds and should be straw colored with no water, oil, or other contaminants.

Check for a restriction in the air filter and intake tube.

Check the wiring harness connectors at the CMP (camshaft position sensor), the ICP (Injection control pressure) sensor, IPR (injection pressure regulator), and injector harness at the valve covers.

Check to ensure that your chip is still fully seated in the PCM.

Probably a few other things to check, but that's all I can think of just now. Has the SES (service engne soon) light come on at all while it's running rough? There is probably a code stored if it did.

 

Cookie,

Thanks for the info, all good things to check which I will do today and let you know.

Not sure if the check engine light has come on because in the 1st case I was outside the vehicle and in case 2 and 3 I was on the road and looking to see if traffic was coming and by the time I could pay attention to the dash controls it started again.

I may have to have the codes read. I will call around and see who can do this. Other than Ford service, what business is recommended for this?? since I don't have a reader?
Oh, one other thing I noticed yesterday when running it in my drive in neutral. It seems to run really rough as it moves to and thru 1100 to 1200 rpms shaking the entire truck a bit that does not seem normal to me. The shifter **** (6spd) normally does not move much but at these rpms moves around about 3 or 4 inches as it shakes. It just seems as if it should be smoother. Don't know if this is another clue or not..

 

Guys, please read and give feedback with any ideas ....


OK, an update on my rig and what I checked so far:

a) When the engine was cold, I checked the plug on top of the HPOP reservoir (the oil level should be within 1" of the top) to see if it had drained down and the oil was within 1" of the top.

b)I checked the oil level on the dipstick and it was just fine also.

c) I drained the fuel from the fuel filter drain and also cycled the key after the bowl emptied it's initial amount and it drained for about 20 seconds and then stopped. Color was just fine as it was straw colored with no water, oil, or other contaminants. I also went ahead and changed the fuel filter although it had only been 3 or 4 weeks since I changed the other one.

d) I checked for a restriction in the air filter and intake tube and there was none.

e) I checked the wire harness and connector for the injector harness for the driver side valve cover and nothing was wrong. Pins looked good and wires also from the outside.

f) I checked the wires and connectors for the ICP (Injection control pressure) sensor, IPR (injection pressure regulator) and no problem.

g) Also I checked the amount of truck shaking when running in neutral and the shifter was moving only about 1/2 inch or so. Just seemed as if it was much worse before.s

Still to get check are the items below:

h) the wires and connection for the CMP (camshaft position sensor) or the seating of the chip in the PCM.

i) for codes that might be registered

Also, I have a new CPS (cam position sensor) and I wonder if I should go ahead and change it or not??

 

I would have the codes checked first befor putting any parts on. It does not have the
things that a bad crank sensor causes. With the proper scan tool you can look at all the things happening on the engine while it's running bad. So it may have to go some place and they check it cold they may need to keep it overnight or you drop it off so it can be checked in the a.m. eather way it is hard to find a problem like yours if you don't do a proper sacn.

 

Had codes pulled and got a P1139 "Manfacurer Contrl. Fuel Air Metering"
Any ideas on what this means related to my issue??

 

I show P1139 as Water In Fuel Indicator Circuit Malfunction. I don't think it will help, but unplug the sensor on the side of your fuel separator housing and see if anything changes.

Max

 

Random thoughts.....

There is never a bad time to replace the CMP. If it changes nothng, then your original one becomes the spare.....and you do need a spare.

With all the operational problems the OBS truck guys have/had with the fuel heater, it's probably worth your time to investigate that code further. Disconnect the heater as Max1775 suggested, and check fuse #30 in the central junction box (the one in the cab).

I assume whomever checked the codes also cleared them when they were finished, but if not you can disco. the batteries while you are checking this stuff and it should take care of that.

 

Guys, one thing I found in all my checks so far was an extra O-ring laying in the bottom of the fuel filter housing when I changed the fuel filter the other day. I suppose, it must have fallen off the old filter 3 to 4 weeks ago when I changed the filter and when I changed the filter the other day, I found it. The extra O-ring that goes on the bottom of the fuel filter had been laying under the current fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel bowl for the last 3 to 4 weeks since the last filter change.

I don't know exactly how this might affect the water in fuel sensing capability but I wonder if this might have caused a fault and also have caused the engine to run rough as it did??

 

Oh, and one other thing. I had Advance Auto run the codes. I then bought my own reader and read the same code and then erased the code using the reader/scanner and verified it to be erased by reading codes again and it was empty.

Thanks