rod bearing replacement
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Colorado
rod bearing replacement
Here is my problem(s). 390 4bbl with low oilpressure, needs new oil pump. Rear main seal leaking fairly bad. Also knocking in lower motor. Here is my question: when I drop the pan to replace the pump and rear main seal, can I also change the rod bearings? I will only have the weekend to get this done, and I am starting to work on another motor, so I really dont have time to do a complete rebuild on what is alreay in the truck.
Thanks
SFC Chris Warth
Thanks
SFC Chris Warth
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Yes, you can replace them. It isn't hard to do, and it is only a little harder since you are working upside down.
Use the same procedures as if the engine were on an engine stand. Make sure the upper half is firmly snapped in place. Be sure to lube them properly too.
Double check EACH SET as you go along to ensure you have the correct size. If the motor is is original to the truck, standard size bearings will be the norm.
It would be better to show up late for PT Monday morning by borrowing a ride than throw a rod on the way there because you used the wrong size bearings!
I have done this procedure on the 352 that used to be in my '66 F-100, and it took about 2 hours from start to finish.
You'll need to jack up the engine a bit, chock it between the engine mounts and the frame with short pieces of 2x4, and you will be fine.
Be sure to disconnect the accelerator linkge to prevent bending or binding it.
Watch the stretch on the lower radiator hose ( you can most likely keep it connected and not have to drain the coolant), and watch the interference of the fan to the fan shroud when jacking the engine up.
Good luck!
Use the same procedures as if the engine were on an engine stand. Make sure the upper half is firmly snapped in place. Be sure to lube them properly too.
Double check EACH SET as you go along to ensure you have the correct size. If the motor is is original to the truck, standard size bearings will be the norm.
It would be better to show up late for PT Monday morning by borrowing a ride than throw a rod on the way there because you used the wrong size bearings!
I have done this procedure on the 352 that used to be in my '66 F-100, and it took about 2 hours from start to finish.
You'll need to jack up the engine a bit, chock it between the engine mounts and the frame with short pieces of 2x4, and you will be fine.
Be sure to disconnect the accelerator linkge to prevent bending or binding it.
Watch the stretch on the lower radiator hose ( you can most likely keep it connected and not have to drain the coolant), and watch the interference of the fan to the fan shroud when jacking the engine up.
Good luck!
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