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A strange problem has appeared in my 93 Aerostar. Occasionally, when I turn the key to start it, nothing happens for a split second, then it fires right up.
I'm thinking that it's the starter solenoid, but I'd like to hear some other opinions before I do anything.
Well, since the solenoid is on the starter motor, just replace the moter while you are at it. A faulty solenoid often damages the starter motor, and visa versa, so they usually go about the same time anyway. Also, check
You say nothing happens when you first turn the key to the "Start" position. Do you hear the starter relay energizing? Could be a faulty relay or dirty contacts in the ignition switch.
Also, sometime there is corrosion at place other than the battery posts (eg. the starter terminals, starter relay, etc.) The symptoms you describe seem more synonomous with a faulty connection, low battery, or faulty starter motor, and less likely to be the solenoid by itself. But do not assume that the solenoid, or the starter relay is ok, as they are much cheaper to replace on their own. But my advise is, if you replac ethew solenoid, replace the starter too. And don't get a cheaper reman starter, get a high end reman, or a factory new.
Thanks all for the replies so far. I had the ignition switch assembly replaced when I first bought the van because it had a lot of play and the key became jammed once or twice. I will look at the starter solenoid terminals and see how they look. Since I just changed the oil and filter and due to Fords brilliant placement of the starter assembly under the oil filter, there is the distinct possibility of the terminals being the problem.
For more detail, I turn the key to start, there's a "click", nothing happens for a split second, then it starts with no problems. It doesn't always happen, and it happens on either a hot or cold start.
First time poster ... many time user ... this is the best resource for Aerostar issues that I have found. Many thanks to you guys for making it such! Once again (today actually) used the info on this forum to fix my starter issues. I'm just a shade-tree mechanic so forgive my lack of expertise.
Back 5 months ago, van was running fine. Came out from a basketball game and the van wouldn't start. Just clicked when the key was turned. AAA came out and with a jump it started. I replaced the battery and it ran fine for 4 months. Got in the van for work and noticed that I had to hold the key for a couple seconds before the starter engaged ... but it did, and I had no problems for a couple weeks. Then I came out to start it and got nothing but a big click. Tried jumping it ... no luck. Tried charging the battery ... no luck. Returned the almost new battery for another one and still no luck. I then replaced the starter solenoid relay (behind the battery) with one from NAPA ($14). Van started right up. Drove it for two days then the same thing happened ... just a clicking noise. Today, I was ready to replace the starter but I ended up reading a bunch of postings on this site. After all the pearls of wisdom concerning corrosion (which, honestly I didn't think would cause my problem) I decided to pull the wires off the starter (I had already done the battery) and sand down the leads. They didn't look bad, but after some sanding with emory cloth, I could see that they were coated. I reconnected the wires to the starter and, like magic, it's run all day.
So, the advice was great, as always and I thank you guys for your help!
i'll drink to that....best source of Aero info I've found
connections have to be almost perfect for 300+ start amps to make the starter work and kick the engine over
these new electronic ECU/PCM engines need a good strong kick from the starter for the best start....older rigs could grind and eventually start on last gasp
the computer prevents spark for the first second of cranking until fuel/air mix has stabilized...pushing the gas pedal to the floor tells the computer>injectors to shut off fuel into engine
One thing you should look at when checking connections is those threaded posts, like on the starter solonoid, or the starter itself, that all the connector lugs are bolted to. Sometimes they loosen up from the cases that they're pressed into. If you use just the outer nut to try to fasten down the lugs, the stud will move, preventing the nut from really tightening down. Most of these studs have two nuts on them, so yo need to use a thin open end wrench to grab the inner nut, and another wrench on the outer and tighten them against eash other. This assures a solid connection between the lugs and the stud.