i started the volare ( mines a 5th ave) swap over the weekend . i got the frame notched and the subframe roughed in for the graft . the frame is level ( within reason)across and down the sides . and the crossmember is level across from side to side . i have 25 mm on each side between the arms and the effies frame. everything looks good but heres the problem the a arm measurements to the floor of the shop are not the same . i checked the floor and thats level . any thoughts ? i am about .25 inches different from the drivers side to the passengers side.

 

Sounds like you're getting real close. I wouldn't take any measurements off the floor at all, nor to any part of a control arm. They mount in a rubber bushing. Use the tops of the upright pillars. Make sure the top is sanded clean. A level that is about four foot long or better is really needed. And an angle guage. The ride height will be adjusted later, just get the clip square and level to the top of the frame rails and you'll be good. Don't forget your anti-dive angle. The whole front clip must rotated back. I know people who have put it anywhere from 2-5 degrees and nobody is complaining. Good luck.

 

'55effie,

as for general measurements... measuring from THE SAME known frame points front to back ( i.e. rivet centers ahead of the cab or self inflicted points like a squared line across both frame rails that is checked to known points) and from frame rail (either inside or outside)to top of upper control arm mount... use a square against the frame rail and check from there to the SAME point or edge on the towers.

I was within 1/16" (that's .15747999496064016 cm) in all directions...

follow 'fenders guide on the anti dive angle... I used templates and haven't a clue on the degree...


the closer you get it... the better it will work and the less problems you'll have.


later
john

 

thanks guys, i knew i could depend on you two . i probably will not get back to the truck until this weekend . in the mean time i will be watching the video from no limit again and see if i can get this thing as close as i can . ixoye

 

hi guys, i just spent the better part of the day checking and re checking everything. i still have one question though . i have all the measurements within reason and the anti dive is at 3.5 but when i mount the upper control arms on the passengers side is about 3/16ths lower than the drivers side it clears the frame ok and allows the control arm to move without restrictions can they compensate for this when i get the front aligned? this has me kind of puzzled because all the other measurements seem to be good . any thoughts ? thanks.

 

They can shim if needed. Alignment shop will set ride height, caster, camber and toe. They won't necessarily attempt to correct the measurement you are concerned with.

It almost sounds like your Effie frame is tweaked up or down in one corner. How does the level look when you run it down the frame? Even if it is off just a bit, they can still probably correct it with alignment.

 

thanks for getting back too me so quick. the frame is level down both frame rails and i checked the frame across behind the center line , at the center line and where the front frame horns are . all look good ,however the rear one behind the centerline is within the two lines in the vial but not perfectly centered . now heres the wierd one when i check the front cross member (that has been sand blasted clean ,so was the frame but that was painted ) it is perfect across the a arm mounts. when i measure down using a square from the bottom of the level to the top of the frame i get approx . 1 inch on both sides. it is when i bolt the upper control mounts on is when i can see that there is a difference. this does have me a little concerned any thoughts or am i getting too critical. thanks

 

If you are going to get really picky you need to get something besides a bubble level. They are not very accurate, I use a self leveling laser level. Not that stupid laser that is leveled with a bubble level what is the purpose of that? I have a good 4 foot bubble level (reading bewteen the lines it is a name brand and not cheap) and a laser level. I stopped using the bubble level the day I bought the laser. I was adding on to my house and could not figure out why pieces were not lining up the way I wanted them. The wall was plumb using the bubble level. I even switched sides and ends of the level to see if orientation made a difference. (Read getting really annoyed at this point) I bought a laser level, I used the laser level and found out the top of the wall was out of plumb by 1.5" over 12 feet. Pulled the top of that wall in and adjusted the other walls and everything started to line up. For anyone who is curious a good self leveling laser level is accurate to ± 1/16 over 150'. They are also good to the same tolerance for measuring square mine has 5 laser lines.

 

55,

The same thing happened on my installation. I fretted about it for a few days but no matter what I did I could not seem to get both sides even. I eventually just left it that way and went with it. I also had a problem getting enough anti-dive angle in mine, but eventually got about 3 degrees after a lot of additional trimming and adjusting. I'm not worried about mine because like 'fenders says, the alignment should take care of it. It makes sense that these 50 year old frames are tweeked a little here and there...

Vern

 

"this does have me a little concerned any thoughts or am i getting too critical. thanks"

You sound like me sometimes. I think the diagnosis is "Paralysis by Analysis" It slows you down some but it keeps you from making critical errors.

From your description I am confident you meticulously checked for level and square. If the frame is level, and you install the K-member square and level (minus anti-dive) you'll be fine. The measurement you are concerned with doesn't alarm me. The Upper CA is just along for the ride. The lower mounts the T-bar and determines ride height.

Ask yourself what you would have to do to the K frame to fix the clearance at the control arm. Throw away your level and move the K-member until your tape measures the UCA right. That's a NO-GO.

I just went out to the check my truck which is aligned. The clearance you are concerned with is more at the front of LCA (due to anti-dive clip install) I wanted to count shims to see what they had to do to get mine right. There are zero shims in my truck. The No Limit method works. BTW, what is the exact anti-dive recommendation in the video? Some sorry rodder borrowed mine, then stole it. I'd like to know it because that is what I did, and I'm constantly participating in these Volare threads.

Pretty soon you'll be driving down the road, steering with one finger and a big grin on your face. That's good, because you need your other hand to keep your balance cause you'll probably be sitting on a five gallon buck, or holding the door shut.

I don't think you have enough posts to PM me yet. Let me know if you got other questions and I'll shoot you my phone number offline. I know well the anxiety this clip install causes. I had to wait 2 years to find out if I ruined my truck.

 

The No-Limit video recommends 4-5 degrees of anti-dive angle, but I had a problem getting that much and settled for about 3 degrees.

Vern

 

You'll be fine. I have talked to F1 owners who used a 2 degree anti-dive with good results. Alignment shop is good for a couple degrees anyway. Half of them aren't using laser and get good results. It's always good to shoot for perfection, but laser accuracy isn't needed at all. The first big bump you hit and you'll be lucky if you aren't off a bit anyway. Not to mention your bushings will settle in after only a few miles. A good bubble level has been the tool of choice since long before I was born.