1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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1973 - 1979: Tips And Tricks

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  #391  
Old 10-05-2016, 08:34 AM
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I had no problems installing. fit right in. worked without any issues.
 
  #392  
Old 10-10-2016, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bulrydr_1
not specifficly 73-79, but when replacing a mechanical fuel pump on your engines, be sure you are at TDC. This way the cam eccentric is in the right place for the pump arm to slide right on, and you don't have to fight with it...

NUMBER 1 CYLINDER at TDC on compression stroke?
 
  #393  
Old 09-11-2017, 10:40 AM
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Cab striker pin bushngs

If you having a difficult time with opening and closing your cab doors, and your doors are adjusted correctly, take a look at the latch striker pin. There should be a plastic bushing around the round shaft part of the pin. These bushing become brittle and break off, causing the latch to hang up when operating.
For a cheap repair, use 1/2" white PEX plastic tubing, using a type of razor cutter, cut it shy to the correct length, then cut in down the length of the tubing. Split it open and install it around the pin.
My doors open like new now!
 
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  #394  
Old 09-13-2017, 02:33 AM
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Thanks 77f250weos.
 
  #395  
Old 09-20-2017, 10:10 AM
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One tip my dad showed me was when washing engine bay. To protect the carb, take a clean butter bowl and place over the carb and use a washer that has one side with the rubber on it. Snug up with wing nut.
 
  #396  
Old 09-20-2017, 11:19 AM
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Heard of the bowl, but not the rubber washer part.
Thanks bigfoot22.
 
  #397  
Old 10-18-2017, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 77f250weos
If you having a difficult time with opening and closing your cab doors, and your doors are adjusted correctly, take a look at the latch striker pin. There should be a plastic bushing around the round shaft part of the pin. These bushing become brittle and break off, causing the latch to hang up when operating.
For a cheap repair, use 1/2" white PEX plastic tubing, using a type of razor cutter, cut it shy to the correct length, then cut in down the length of the tubing. Split it open and install it around the pin.
My doors open like new now!
Thanks so much for this. I found heating up the pex with a heat gun made it go on much easier. Now I can shut my doors without waking up the neighbors!
 
  #398  
Old 03-24-2018, 07:34 PM
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Red face 79 f250 AC idler pulley

AC idler pulley had a bad bearing and was only sold as unit with bracket due to fact of them covering bearing with non removable shield.
I tracked down the part, found it to be kind of rare so took my dremel and cut off shielding over bearing and was able to press out bearing
and replace bearing for $6.20 for the 6203 bearing instead of around $160.00 for whole bracket assembly.
please excuse any wrong terminology. I have some mechanical skills but still not a great mechanic.
 

Last edited by tyedye; 03-24-2018 at 08:40 PM. Reason: To clarify
  #399  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tyedye
idler pulley had a bad bearing and was only sold as unit with bracket due to fact of them covering bearing with non removable shield.
I tracked down the part, found it to be kind of rare so took my dremel and cut off shielding over bearing and was able to press out bearing
and replace bearing for $6.20 for the 6203 bearing instead of around $160.00 for whole bracket assembly.
As I would understand, your talking about the A/C idler pulley?
.
 
  #400  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:33 PM
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yes ac idler pulley

That's the one. It was a couple three weeks ago so I do not have part # handy. but it had 3 boltholes in a stepped triangular bracket. It was also used in the mustang and corvette from what I could understand.
 
  #401  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:56 PM
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Good to know.
Is the bearing special, or can you get one anywhere.?
 
  #402  
Old 03-25-2018, 07:49 AM
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Timing. And wire i found

i was,disconnecting black yellow striped,wire under,hood rear ok did,be regulater opposite mount battery,older,fired,and,4 78 and jacked,to,a,4x4 next replace,cap. Laser wires,timing,at,8 before top dead,center,for sec,notch crank and first,fully throttle,befor ten in metal tag,also,inline 6 geardrive there,a,racing type but one barrel does,very,good,no other problem other ,accrued.did,lifter,adjust,smooth tap to,16th the,and,sec,to8th,. point,cap they,use,I,went,hmi diffarance and tuned,carburetor air chock
 

Last edited by Weberda328jw; 03-25-2018 at 08:44 AM. Reason: Mis spelled
  #403  
Old 03-25-2018, 11:51 AM
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thank you. literally just yesterday I tried adjusting my passenger door and could not get it right, looked at drivers and saw that plastic piece and was wondering what I had that would work. I was going to cut a magic marker. Your way sounds better. question though, the plate/nut behind that, will it fall down in the door post? I was going to pull it off to check for something that would fit and was wondering if it would fall, would a magnet keep it from doing so while I replaced plastic bushing.?
 
  #404  
Old 03-25-2018, 12:01 PM
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Very common, I used it a lot in electric motor and pump repair.just make sure it is a sealed bearing.
 
  #405  
Old 03-25-2018, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tyedye
thank you. literally just yesterday I tried adjusting my passenger door and could not get it right, looked at drivers and saw that plastic piece and was wondering what I had that would work. I was going to cut a magic marker. Your way sounds better. question though, the plate/nut behind that, will it fall down in the door post? I was going to pull it off to check for something that would fit and was wondering if it would fall, would a magnet keep it from doing so while I replaced plastic bushing.?

Tyedye: this is a tips & tricks only page.
so you’ll need to remember to post questions in a new post if you can’t find it through a search.
-
But no, the nut won’t normally fall, it’s a caged nut.
_
 


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