Ok everybody....this has been an ongoing problem and you can follow it in the fuel and the electrical forums though now I'm asking here because I have no clue what the issue is now! Short and to the point: Rebuilt 390, carburator professionally rebuilt, new distributor, coil, wires, plugs, starter, solenoid, and ignition control module. The truck runs great when cold, starts and idles well around 900 rpm. I just tested this tonight so here it goes: Start the truck and it idles for 10 min and temp rises above the C on the gauge. Drive the truck for a min or two dies and will restart in two to three cranks. Then drive the truck to a parking spot, let it idle (around 1100-1200 rpm by now) for another min or two and it quits on its own again. Try to restart it then and it will not restart. Get out, check the carb. choke plate is all the way open. Don't really see any flooding out. Strong spray of fuel when I manually operate the throttle. Starter cranks and motor tries to start every so often between the start and run position on the ignition key. This happened twice while driving a week back and it was while the motor was warm as well. What in the world is happening? I won't drive the truck anywhere now becuase I don't want it to quit again. I'm looking for help from anywhere!

Nate

 

When it does die, and you are trying to restart it, does it try to catch or is there no indication of catching? Can you smell gasoline when attempting to restart? How long between stalling and ability to restart it? If you are just driving it will it die going down the road?

What brand of rebuild is the carburetor? Do you have a fuel pump mounted filter or regular inline version?

 

Thanks Matts72....in response to your questions:

Yes, It feels like its catching but it seems to be when the key moves from start to run in the switch and there only. It will stumble and not start. Yes, it does smell like fuel when I've been trying to restart it. The time period for the restart gets larger. It's maybe 20 seconds after the first tiem it quits then it gets worse and just sometimes wont start until the next day. It will die at any time while driving but it has typically died when I was starting to accelerate in second and when I stopped and put the truck into reverse to back up. But it also quits when idling too. BTW...when it quits, it just DIES no sputtering or anything.

Carburator is the factory 4160 Holley and I have a fuel filter located in-line just before the carb.

If anyone needs to know anything else, just ask. Thank you so much for the help!

Nate

 

It sounds like a ignition problem. Have you checked for a good spark when it is cold compared to when you are having problems?

I had a simular problem once, and it was the ingnition moudle.

Check your coil, their not high.



David

 

David... Last time I checked for spark when it quit on me I didn't see one. Though, I wasn't sure If I was holding the screwdriver close enough to the block. It does seem like a ignition problem your right. What would cause it to fail when its warm though? I just replaced the module today and its doing the same thing. Last week I replaced the coil as well and it quit once before installing the new coil and once after installing the new coil. I'm going to look at my paperwork and see if the shop that worked on my motor replaced the entire distributor or not. If not, I've heard there could be a problem with certain parts when they get warm inside the distributor? Thanks for everyones help so far. I'm also going to try and start it tomorrow morning when I get to work (its stuck in the parking lot) to see if it will start again when cold...I'm sure it will. Anyway...I'll keep reading and posting answers to everyones inquries. I really need this thing fixed. Thanks!

Nate

 

Your pick up in the distributor could be bad, even if it is a new one, like a rebuilt one from Auto you know who or any discount parts store, the great life time warranty means a life time of changing them out.

Stick with your ingnition untill you are sure all is well, including tracing all wires to make sure none have gotten hot and melted the insulation.
I would rather build a hundred engines than mess with a wiring problem on one.



David

 

Could be a problem in the ignition switch or starter solinoid. When it quits and won't start, is there power at the "I" terminal on the starter solinoid with key on? When engine is running, try wiggling the key and the wires on the back of the ignition switch, if it dies you have a bad switch or wiring. Just a thought...

Marty

 

on your truck the starter relay after some age the will get corroded try replacing this part my 77 f100 did the same thing

 

Have you tried holding the pedal all the way to the floor when it does die?

You've replaced everything that is ignition related. I'm thinking its just flooding out. My truck does the same thing every once in a while...

 

Well....I'm at work and the truck will not start at all now. Starter turns the motor over and its doing the surge between start and run AS WELL as between run and the straight up position at times. Its a new soleniod and a new starter....but who knows at this point. I'm gonna have to trace all the wires or something...this is crazy. Teh first day I picked it up from the motor shop, I drove it 25 miles home with no issues. Now, I can't even drive it 2 miles. Thank you everyone for the help!

Nate

P.S. Thanks Matt....I'll try that if I can get it to ever start again!

 

I think Matt wants you to hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank it - now would be a good time, since it just died. If it starts within a few cranks of the engine, you can assume it's flooded.

Marty

 

Thanks Marty....I don't know anything about carbs and this is going to be a dumb question. Wouldn't it just flood more if I press the pedal to the floor while starting it? If the motor is flooded...I thought that would be the last thing you would want to do. Thanks!

Nate

P.S. It hasn't started again since It quit last night.

 

When it wont start try the FTE jumper wire test. run a jumper wire from the hot side of the solenoid or battery to the postive terminal on the coil. If it starts It could be that 4 terminal plug by the fire wall on the driver side. check out this post and my reply there.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=352239

 

You would think so, but flooring it also allows a lot more air to enter the engine, which helps it to start when flooded.

I still am leaning toward an electrical problem. Since it won't start, this is the time to be testing things. Check the "I" terminal on starter solinoid for power with key on. Check the coil terminal for power with key on. Let us know what you find.

Marty

 

I won't be able to reply again until I get home from work. I do want you to hold the pedal all the way to the floor while you crank it.

Normally if it never started you would attempt throwing electrical parts at it, but electrical parts are almost never intermittent.

Its cranking so you can rule out the solenoid on the fender. It tries to catch so you can rule out the module on the other fender. You can smell gas so you can rule out a bad fuel pump or plugged filter.

If you really want too, you can call me, my phone number at work is 1-406-245-7390 I'm Matt. I'll be available from 130pm-700pm Mountain time zone. Make sure to let me know you are from FTE...