why won't my truck start?
#1
why won't my truck start?
hi,i'm new to the forum.the other day i was driving my 91 ranger and it cut off and would'nt start.before that happened it was acting as if it wasn't getting fuel.i've changed the fuel filter,found the ignition module,changed it.changed the ignition coil,got a new cap&rotor.it still does'nt start.i've now taken the distributor out and i'll replace it tomorrow.if that does'nt work then what?
#5
#6
#7
BIGDYAM,
Still having problems? The only thing you haven't mentioned changing that's part of the ignition system are the plugs and plug wires. Recently, had a similar problem with my 92 3.0L Aerostar that ended with the plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor all changed.
Are you sure it's an ignition problem? If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you can check both the fuel delivery system and the fuel injector control system.
To test the fuel delivery system, attach the gauge to the fuel rail and turn the key to "Run." Check the pressure, it should be 35-45 psi and hold fairly steady once the pump stops. If it drops to zero after the pump stops, then the fuel pressure regulator is probably bad.
To check the fuel injector control system, attach the gauge to the fuel rail, turn the key to "Run" to charge the rail to 35-45 psi, then disconnect the inertia shut-off switch to kill power to the fuel pump. With the gauge still attached and the inertia switch disconnected, turn the key to "Start" and crank the engine for approximately 5 seconds. If the fuel pressure drops 5 psi or more, then the injectors are opening and your problem lies with the ignition system. (That is unless you're not getting compression.) Remember to reconnect the inertia shut-off switch.
Just my 2cents
Ron
Still having problems? The only thing you haven't mentioned changing that's part of the ignition system are the plugs and plug wires. Recently, had a similar problem with my 92 3.0L Aerostar that ended with the plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor all changed.
Are you sure it's an ignition problem? If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you can check both the fuel delivery system and the fuel injector control system.
To test the fuel delivery system, attach the gauge to the fuel rail and turn the key to "Run." Check the pressure, it should be 35-45 psi and hold fairly steady once the pump stops. If it drops to zero after the pump stops, then the fuel pressure regulator is probably bad.
To check the fuel injector control system, attach the gauge to the fuel rail, turn the key to "Run" to charge the rail to 35-45 psi, then disconnect the inertia shut-off switch to kill power to the fuel pump. With the gauge still attached and the inertia switch disconnected, turn the key to "Start" and crank the engine for approximately 5 seconds. If the fuel pressure drops 5 psi or more, then the injectors are opening and your problem lies with the ignition system. (That is unless you're not getting compression.) Remember to reconnect the inertia shut-off switch.
Just my 2cents
Ron
Last edited by rlmdad; 04-11-2005 at 03:51 AM.
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