Hear is my problem.I have a 1989 E-250 3/4 ton van that cuts out while running on a cold start.It will start wright back up,but i have to keep my foot on the gas just a little.If i let off the gas pedal it will cut out a few times then just stall.Even if i keep my foot on the gas i can hear a slight cut out of power.Last time i drove it was Superbowl sunday,and on the way to my dads house it stalled on me.I stoped and put it into park.When i went to restart the motor it just barely started,and the head lights flickerd very lightly.I had to keep my foot down on the gas all the way to my dads house,because it was going to stall.After the superbowl was over i go out to start it and it ran fine all the way home.Then two days later i goto start it and it starts all over again with the motor cutting out then it just stalls.I put my hands up and say thats it i dont have the time and money to mess with it wright now.Its ben sitting since then and has not ben started untill yesterday.It started up fine and no cutting out or stalling.I didnt drive it because id get stuck in my driveway with all the snow.Help!

 

I need to replace the oil pan in this van to.Some one told me i need to drop the motor to replace it.Is this true?

 

Heavy460, to replace your oil pan on a 5.0/5.8L you need to 'lift' the engine 4 inches to drop the pan. I replaced my oil pump with the heads off in my '89 E350 5.8L. It was an exercise in paitenece. I tried to cut corners, don't! Loosen up the transmission support, and make sure the wireing doesn't get bound-up or pinched between the trans and the floor pan. You might have to remove the upper intake to clear the 4 inches. If you can prop up the block with a 4X4 on each side where the motor mounts attach, then you will have to reach into the pan to disconnect the oil pick up tube and screen.. Your next challenge will be to drop the engine back down onto the mounts without tweeking the alinement, kind of fun with only a floor jack. But if I can do it, anyone can. Good luck

 

Thanks,It was all ready replaced about a year ago,and it took the repair shop 4 months to get it started.I just wanted to see if they were BS me.They did some of what you said,but messed up on the wireing.Plus they lost my air box.

 

Heavy460,
The Idle Air Control can cause the problem you describe and is an item that is frequently mentioned as the cause of idle problems. Some people clean the valve portion of it being carefull not to get solvent into the solinoid half. It might be a better idea to replace it on an '89 model.

I had a simalar problem with my '94 with 351 and decided to go ahead and do all of the typical tune up items and also replaced the IAC. It helped but didn't solve the problem. I had a code 273 if I recall correctly which indicates a rich condition which was obvious anyway. I pulled the vacum line off of the fuel pressure regulator and turned the tried to crank it. Fuel shot out of the vacum port on the regulator inicating the diaphram was gone. I replaced the regulator and solved the problem. That would be the first thing I would check if it is running rich. Very easy to do.

Gene

 

i have the same model and year van and it would stumble and stall when changing gears...i changed the iac valve and problem gone

can i ask where your temp gauge hovers when it is up to op temp. mine recently goes past h, but it is not overheating...i changed the temp sensor, the gauge in the instrument panel with the same results...anyone have a clue?

 

Temp gauge stays in the middle.Oil gauge stays in the middle to.So far iam going to replace the cylinoid,battery and alternator then go from there.It has all kinds of hook ups on it.(24amp air compress,air horn,police scanner,cell phone,spot light<--ahh and passanger side power window.All that was installed when i bought it.If the bulb is dead on the spot light i cant tell if its on or off.I thought it might be the catalytic converter at first because of the loss in power.That was the problem with my 1989 F-250 with the 460.This van is a whole differnt story.Thanks for all the info.Iam going to try every thing.Just checked the spot light and the bulb fell out into my hands.I can see the wires are touching metal.wow

 

Sounds like you have a grounding problem. Have you pulled any codes? Fords can have electrical demons due to poor ground connections.

 

Well it was the fuel pressure regulator that was the culprit.I havent had much time to work on my van.So today i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it ran smooth.I also replaced the IACV.The only thing is it idles a little low then stalls.It only stalls in park,but if i put it into drive it idles ok and dose not stall. I smell a little hint off strong EXHAUST.Kind of like rottin eggs,but not that bad.Whats next?Today was a good day thanks.

 

This morning i go to start my van and runs for a 1 min then stalls every time i crank it over.I went back over every thing i did and also blew out all the electrical connections.Started it again and it ran better,but only stalling a few min later.I tryed to remove the oxygen sensor,but had no luck.I tapped the exaust pipe near the oxygen sensor with a half inch wrench not hitting the sensor.Then i went and replaced all the air hoses going to the vapor canaster,because they were toast.The next thing was i cranked it over and started up with a nice idle and now its running like a champ.It dose ping going up hills.When i first took it out for a drive there was no ping,but after it warmed up it started to ping.I cant find the throttle position sensor?I know a lot about dressing electrical connections for protection,but who ever did before me went way over board.I found a lot of info on this site and at the link on the bottom of page.Its good to know what the part dose and what the symptoms are before you replace it.If all goes well i can pay the rent on time,and not have to use the money to pay some one to fix it.

http://www.tomco-inc.com/

 

After Every thing i did it was starting to chug again and run rough.So i replaced the throttle position sensor and the EGR valve with new sensor like some said to.Runs great now.Drove it about 50 miles to get some other parts.No problems.The throttle position sensor was hard to get to ,had to remove the throttle head.Some one before me tryed to remove the throttle position sensor,because the screws were so worn.The old EGR valve just about broke apart in my hand when i removed it to replace it.It still pings a little after it warms up.The only thing i have problems with is the small cap on the purge celinoide keeps falling off.Its a ford only part for about $40.00.Can i just tape the cap on?

 

Sounds as though you may have it fixed finally . I had an older Dodge pickup that kept doing a lot of that too . I installed a new fuel pump and tuned and re-tuned and turned out to be the fuel pick up tube in the tank .

I also have an 89 Dodge van which had a buzzing sound in the tank area ( electric fuel pump ) . Would not start one day and was the electric fuel pump in the tank . The filter looked as though it was stopped up with mud and the pump had been running almost dry and finally burned up .

I have a 1975 Ford 1 ton van ( RV ) which kept stalling . It was the fuel filter in the carb. It had been sitting several years and rust had formed in the fuel tank and kept clogging the filter . I installed an external filter so I can get to it easily .

Jamie

 

I drove it all day today with no problems.Even the ping is less.Most of the parts i replaced looked original with lots of surface rust.

I have replaced:
Altenator
Solenoid
Fuel Pressure Regulater
IACV
Wires
Vapor Lines
Outside Electric Fuel Pump
EGR Valve/Sensor
TPS
Any Ford part only you need to goto ford for it.
Thank you ALL!I learned more here then in my shop class at high school 18 years ago.