My rig is 02 F250 with V10, 3.73, SC/SB/4x4 Auto. I intend to tow my Jeep on a car hauler trailer using frame hitch, at most 8-10 times a year, distances usually don't exceed 300 miles round trip, most of the time I go about 200 round trip. The Jeep weighs approximately 4900 lbs. as equipped, including tools, gear, camping stuff, etc. I haven't had the F250 to the scales yet, but I estimate from posts of others it should weigh about 7000-7200 lbs wet with driver etc.

I am new to towing so I have a couple of questions:

1. I assume a 10,000 lb. trailer is needed, a standard car hauler trailer is only rated 7,000 lbs. and I want/need some margin of safety? But I see lots of other folks towing their similar off-road rigs but I know most or none of them get a 10,000 lb. trailer, doesn't mean I want to be like them if they are unsafe or illegal.

2. If my total towed weight is at most 8,000 lbs, tongue weight should be 1000-1200lbs, so I should be fine on GVWR. But I have the factory hitch which is only rated 6000lbs without weight distribution. Which is better - Replacing hitch to avoid weight distribution, or just add weight distribution to the trailer?

3. Will I find 3.73 gears inadequate? According to my owner's manual it is. I can regear if needed, but I priced up the parts and they are like $800 for both axles with full install kits, that's a lot for something that "might" be necessary. The only mountains I will see will be the small ones in eastern U.S.

4. With this kind of weight, do I need to worry about trans temps? Install a real gage, and maybe auxiliary cooler? Seems like the factory trans cooler is pretty huge compared to most I've seen on other trucks.

I know most discussions on here are about bigger trailers, but I would appreciate any feedback on my setup.

 

#2 - go with the WD hitch. Even if you just made 6000 I would still recommend the WD. It makes a world of difference on handling, trailer control, and ride quality. We were towing a race car, comparable load, lighter car but more stuff. Without the WD the trip was "uncomfortable" and slow. With the WD we tracked well, steered well and could keep up with reasonable traffic without the pucker factor.

 

#1: Not sure why you'd need a 10,000# trailer for your 4900# Jeep? I'd say that the 2,000# of "safety margin" offered by the 7,000# trailer is plenty. Save your $ and get the weight-distribution system.

#2: Depending on where (on the trailer) you park the Jeep, you might be over-estimating the weights. For a tag-along trailer, tongue weight should be around 10% of the total weight. I'd guess you're max tongue weight to be around 700#. Still, you're going to need & want the weight-distribution system.

#3: I pull a 10,000# RV with my '02 SC,SB, 4x4 w/3.73 gears. The wind resistance of the 12'x8' RV makes towing MUCH more difficult than if it were just a 10,000# load on a flatbed trailer. Your truck will handle the Jeep just fine.

#4: Unless you do a lot of slow-speed driving (like towing off-road) or a lot of backing up-hill in HOT weather, the factory cooler should be just fine. Just be sure to keep the transmission serviced at the proper intervals!

 

I agree with all but #4 ....A bigger trans cooler is cheap insurance along with a temp gauge .

 

Trailers are rated gross not net, so a 7000# trailer has a usable payload of 7000# minus the weight of the trailer, which is probably about 2000#. So my margin is maybe 100lbs. with a 7000# trailer.

 

I think 2000 lbs. empty weight is kinda heavy for a car trailer , I have a tandum axle 22' equipment trailer that has a 3/16" diamond plate steel floor and 1/4" steel fenders that tips the scales at 1600 lbs. , so I would guess a car trailer closer to 900 or a 1000 lbs. empty weight .

 

I rented a tandem-axle car hauler from U-haul. Empty weight they told me was 2300 lbs. It was a pretty stout trailer.

Jason

 

Yeah the U-Hauls are way over built , but then they have too be ! 2300 lbs. sound a little heavy to me though . I worked for an RV dealer who rented U-Hauls , we would move the trailers around the yard with an electric golf cart . I tried to buy a car trailer U-Haul was "retirering" but was told they are distroyed for liability reasons . Most car trailers sold to the general public are nowhere near as well built ( read heavy ) as the U-Haul trailers . We also sold new and used utility and car trailers and none were built as well as the U-Hauls .

 

my 16ft car trailer, and my truck average weight is around 8800 pounds. my truck is a 1991 F-250 351, 5 speed 4X4. the truck weighs around 6300 i think with me in it. a 7000lbs trailer would be pletty for your jeep. though to be sure test how your jeep sits on the trailer and how it tows behind your truck. you dont buy a car without testdriving first, so whay should this be any different

 

I tow a 33' TT with my F250 PSD. Went to Mass this summer and returned. The TT was pushing about 8500# or more and stands almost 12' tall. No temperature problems at all with stock coolers, think you may be overestimating the trailer weight and the truck weight. I think you may be around 6600# in your truck my PSD CC is only 7150# wet, so a trip to the scales would be good. It sounds like the trailer you are looking at has a 7000# GVWR and that would mean the pay load is that figure less the trailer weight as you mentioned. May need to borrow on and get it weighed or find out if they have the specifications on the trailer weight not the GVWR. In TT it is called the dry or unloaded weight specification.

 

Hi All:

I have a 99 F-250 4x4 V-10. I now tow a 26 ft, 7k lb boat. I'm looking at going to a bigger boat. 30 to 32 ft, around 12K lbs to 13K lbs. Do you use a weight distributing hitch? Or, is there a hitch I should switch out to. I have never seen anyone use a weight distributing hitch with a boat like they do with a TT.

It will mostly be for a 5 mile round trip to the boat ramp. However I do plan a yearly 250 mile trip to the FL Keys.

What's the safest way to pull this monster.

Thanks for your help, Bob

 

Man that's one heavy boat ! My neighbor has a 30' Pantera ( spelling ? ) that he pulls with his Hummer , he doesn't use a WD hitch and says it pull fine .

 

He said what I would have said... I have a trans temp gauge and so far no overheat issues towing a 8K high profile 5th wheel. Additional cooling can't hurt, but the factory cooler has been plenty for me so far.

 

Is it imperative to tow the jeep on a trailer???? If not, install a frame mounted tow bar, put the transfer case in neutral, and wire the jeeps lights to plug in to the F-250 trailer plug.

Get a trans temp gage. Aux cooling is already on the Ford and really stout.

Larry

 

Yes it is imperative, I wheel pretty hard and trail damage is always a possibility, so one cannot assume that my jeep will be safe to tow on the road. Other reasons not to flat tow for me:

- No way I am going to tow a 5000 lb. load without braking of some sort, I don't think its legal and even if others do it I don't like the idea. Adding a brake buddy would take care of this, but the cost gets me well on the way to the cost of a trailer.

- I already have an aftermarket front bumper and winch on the jeep that does not have a front hitch or provisions for a tow bar. It was expensive and a pain to install because of its weight, no reason to change it now.

- On a rainy weekend, I can put my tent on the trailer, and I will also have a non-muddy place to work under the jeep if needed.