I have a 2wd scab and the first time I changed my oil filter the oil came off the front and rear of the plastic deflector that is on the crossmember. I thought that was weird being as it was on a lift and level but I just figured that I would stop the flow on the front in the future with a rag. Well I changed it today after I have had my drop shackles installed and guess what? It drains off completely on the rear. I am guessing that those with leveling kits on the front have had the same results. I appears that Ford installed them at slightly the wrong angle.

On a side note I hear a lot of people talking about taking the plastic deflector off to get a strap style wrench on the filter and that is a crazy thing to do. The oil filter is designed to be removed with a socket style grip and a 1' extension on a ratchet. It is very easy to get to this way and even easier to get the new one on and snugged down. Hope this info helps out someone.

 

I have not changed oil in mine yet.Do you mean a 1 foot extension?Thanks for the info.

 

Yes, a 1 foot extension and standard ratchet with a cup style oil filter socket. I use the socket to loosen the filter and then unscrew it until it is off but holt it to the engine block so the oil doesn't pour out of the block or filter. When the flow of oil slows down I carefully pull the filter forward over the deflector sheild and tilt it upward. If you take an extra 1-2 minutes per oil change you can avoid all the built up dirty oil on the underside of the truck. I even wipe off the drainage sheild to keep it from building up sludge and having oil spill off its front side.

 

cbsaf, Sounds like a good plan/procedure.I will give it a try whenever I am ready for the first oil change.Thank You Very Much for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.

 

What cap filter wrench do you use. I have three of them here and none quite fits the 820 filter on my 4.6?
Thanks
Chris

 

That's a good question. I have never really paid attention. I just go to the cabinet at the hobby shop and get it out. Buy a filter for $2 and head to the auto parts store and test fit them because they are out there.

 

Chris go to Wal-Mart & get the 6 wrenches combination in 1 oil wrench / socket style. Its only a couple bucks & is BRITE ORANGE / round w/ the inside ridges/bumps for the gripping action. & Yes , the 1 foot ratchet extention will work like a charm. It also fits many other filter styles for other vehicles. They just fit inside each other & turn around for perfect fit for ours. Its design is to fit mostly all other filters w/ its tier build grooves inside the circle. I can send a pic of it if you'd like?

 

Bozack, I have that set, ugly orange, from Wally world. Did not fit. thought it did in the store, tried before I bought. But when push came to shove, No go. one size a little to big, another a little too small. Puzzled me at the time. I dug up my Lisle (sp) folding small filter wrench, and with much complaint it took the factory filter of. Had to put the new one on by hand.
Want something better by the next time.
Chris

 

The first time I changed my oil, the factory one was an odd size. None of my filter cups would fit. Same with my wifes 05 Explorer. I have a 04 FX4 scab. Also, the factory filters were very tight.....

 

Well guys they do exist and they do make it easy. Try an autoparts store and not Walmart. Walmart lets us all down sometimes.

 

Yes, they do exist. I bought one at Autozone for about $5.xx. It's made of metal and, according to the sticker/label, is made specifically for the FL820s filter. With this wrench, filter removal is quick and easy.

 

My Wally World orange wrench works, The problem is the angle you have to work with does not allow it to go on evenly. It's a tight fit. You have to work it. I found working it from the top is a lot easier.

 

I can't understand how anyone is having trouble getting to their filter to start w/??? I have the 4.6 & w/ the "ugly?" orange wal mart 6in1 wrench & ratchet + extention its off & back on in less than a minute w/ not problems at all. Just did it yesterday w/out a drop spilled. Are you all talking about the 5.4?

 

Thanks txfx4x4, now that sounds good.

Carguy1959, I found the same thing. Totally diff unit from the 820. I think it's better made too.

KevinM, I think that's about the way mine is. Almost right.

Hi Bozack, I think what KevinM and I are dealing with is probably a different lot number of the socket. These things are made in China, on very cheap injection molding rigs. I suspect that if you bought them at ten different times, at ten different Wallmarts you might find a pretty wide spread on actual size.
When I was in auto parts I used to dread a new run of any cheap part due to the various 'minor' differences in things made in Asia. I toured a couple factories, at corp. expense. They don't do it the way we do.
Some good points for their methods, some bad. But standardization is more an American/European idea.
I exclude GM parts made in the 60's and 70's. You would think making things to match was a Martian concept. See Chevy starter shims. Made so a block could be 60 thousandths of an inch out, as could the starter. The shims were to make up the tenth of an inch slop, if needed. Ouch.

Measure it with a micrometer;
Mark it with chalk;
Cut with axe.

Chris

 

ChrisAdams, you are so right about Chevy starters.I had to change one on a 350 engine outside in a blizzard, a few years ago.That little job took forever.I ran out of shims that came with the starter and ended up cutting up a soda pop can to make shims.That was a miserable job.What a piece of work set-up! Another GM brain storm at work!