I think there is a torque factor that needs to be applied anytime you offset the torque wrench. But because this is such a low torque anyway I would not worry about it. Your main concern is overtorquing so go to the low or middle setting.

 

If you keep the crowfoot wrench at right-angles to the torque wrench handle, you don't need to use a correction factor - the torque at the crowfoot end is the same as at the end of the torque wrench. If you can't get at the nut with the crowfoot wrench at 90 degrees, most 3/8" drive torque wrenches are about 12" long so the maximum correction for a typical 3/4" long crowfoot would be about 6%. The torque wrenches are typicall only good to about +/- 5% of the setting and you have a range from 15-17 ft-lbs (or about 6%). As strokster said, the correction is small enough that you could shoot for 15 ft-lbs on the torque wrench and probably be close enough even with a crowfoot attachment.

 

Earl you never cease to amaze me with the amount of information you supply. You and Barry both deserve a big pat on the back.

Thanks Rod

 

Rod,

I'd like to claim some magic formula, but the stuff is right out of the shop manual. I guess the scanner must be the magic ingredient, eh? Either that or Barry and I are the only ones that read the manuals. I think that means we can't be guys anymore - my wife will be very disappointed!

 

A few weeks ago you put a bunch of Mc Master Carr part numbers in a post for a guy. I know you had to have spent a lot of time typing all that in. You always seem to take the extra time to add all the extra information.

Rod

 

OK Rod, guilty as charged.

By the way, on the original subject of this thread, my wife just looked over my shoulder and comented "your u-joints have been over-torqued since you were a teenager." I guess having your u-joints over-torqued is a personal fault or something?