My project is definetly a ways out. I'm still tweaking my mudd truck with its 400, and then I have a 77 pinto I'm either dropping a 302 clevor in or I'm going to build the 2.3ltr and drop a 200 horse shot of NOS(violates my first rule of car projects though, wich is always having twice as many cylinders than wheels, unless its a turbo diesel that is) Then I'm starting a trike, wich the 2.3 was originaly for. I realy don't know what I'm going to drop the sleeved 400 into, maybe a boat, nothing I have with wheels needs that kinda power, yet. But it's defintly on my to do list and I'm slowly collecting parts and ideas for this project. This way I guese I can wait and see what kind of power you make and then build to beat ya, lol. Best of luck.Thanx.

 

It might take a bit to build to beat me, because I know a fair amount about building these things with mediocre parts, with truly expensive parts, I could build myself a black hoile. I'll worn you ahead of time, mine isn't for all out power, but rather a vacuum rule class(17" Hg@850RPM), so power may seem lackluster for the money I'll have in it, but it'll make an honest 100-125 HP more than the 460 in the current race truck. Anyway, it's a while off yet, so, I'll keep compiling info and drooling, and wishing, and hoping.

 

Maybe I can learn a few tricks from you. Havent built to many engines in my young life but I did build my first 1835VW when I was eleven.( well bolted it together actualy, dad miked everything). Hope to hear more about your build as it progresses. I plan on simple off the shelf parts, for instance, with the slightly higher pin height of the 428 fe piston and the added overbore, the comp should be somewhere in the 10:1 range(guesing) and I will chose the cam based on livable DCR on 92 pump gas, wich inturn will determine my low end and the strength needed for the rpm it wil live with.ect. Then of course manifold, headers and carb to match the combo. I will also send out the heads to be ported to match the power I expect to make from the combo at the valve lift of the cam and the rpm range ect. Hopefully it all falls around the 1.25 hp per cubic inch range wich will get me about 550 hp for a 440ci 400 ford. 4.150bore by 4.07stroke. They offset stroke should help raise comp also, so its all good.Thanx, and good hearing from ya!

 

My build will have around 15.1:1 comp., with absolutely no dome. 445 CID is the target(4.155x4.100) and the CHI 3V Iron heads(identical to the aluminum 218's, just cast in iron), and a matching single plane and custom 1200 cfm 4150 Holley. The headers will be custom, one-off, Burns' Stainless designed, Burden Racing built, Large tube Tri-Y's, costing close to $3,000 for materials, plus my time(around 35 hrs to do it right). With the quench set right, and the timing knocked down, it could theoretically run on 92, but I'm a big fan of Turbo Blue Racing Gasoline. With the money I'll have in this build, I could build one helluva Big Block, but I always thought the Cleveland based motors sounded a little throatier, and I'm the type of guy that likes to prove a point, i.e., if you can do it 521 Cubic Inches, I can do it with 445.

BTW, one of the best things you can spend your money on is a very high quality Ring set, and I truly believe in Total Seal Gapless Rings. Tests show an avg. leakdown of <3%, with most engines showing no leakdown at all. This is shown to help the motor inmany ways, including power (less cylinder pressure loss, less contamination of intake charge) and engine longevity(better seal means less cylinder washdown, leading to better lubrication).

Sorry for the long post, and I know it's kinda pointless to talk about it, but it just makes me want to work even harder to 'Git 'er Done'.

 

I don't think we should have a power build off now! My build will have alot less money into it and it's for more of a torque build for either a boat or maybe, just maybe my mudd truck. Depends on how high strung it ends up. Are builds could serve some greater good though. Mine a low buck off the shelf parts build that makes great torque and hp for a small block weight and big block power. Yours a no holds bared high power build. They can show others what a 400 ford can realy do. All the engine rags tought the SBC and never mention a good word for are beloved 400. Leave it to grass roots motor builders to show them how to get-R-done!

 

Here's an idea. Go with a thicker(3/32") sleeve, and notch the sleeves, similar to a 4.6L. The sleeves now interlock each other into the block, increasing the rigidity of the deck. This would eliminate the worry of the swiss cheese block destroying itself under head bolt torque. It's an idea, just wanted to run this by you smarter folks out there.

Some build changes. Bigger cam, Al heads, bigger carb, and more compression= approx. 875-900 HP

 

So... I was chit chatting with a machinist friend.... and casually mentioned this little project...

He mentioned that the block wouldn't hold together very long, as sleeves were way weaker than having a solid block. I'm not about to sink at least $1500 into a block to see if it comes apart...

 

Sorry about bringing back an old thread. But any of you get one of these built and on a dyno?

 

I have been running an EFI 434 cubic inch 400 block for several years. It uses the 4.25 stroke eagle crank and is only bored to 4.030". It was built by Tim Meyer.

It runs great and has great oil pressure. Contact Tim at TMI for details.