Replacement catalytic converter parts
#1
Replacement catalytic converter parts
Well heck, after 157,000 perfect miles, I have to replace the lower intake manifold gasket, then the next week my passenger's side front cat converter goes to rattling.
I suspect the guts have broken up (much like Travlnman's).
Darned replacements are expen$ive!
Anybody fitted an aftermarket replacement or know of a good source?
The guys at the local independant shop I use are good folks and suggested replacing the down tubes and adding an aftermarket hi-flo cat and just fabricating whatever pipe I needed to get back to my muffler.
I go the impression this would run both downtubes into a single pipe, use a single hi-flo converter and then go into the muffler.
This would require eliminating the second set of O2 sensors, but I believe that can be done fairly easily without casuing problems.
Any experience or advice?
I suspect the guts have broken up (much like Travlnman's).
Darned replacements are expen$ive!
Anybody fitted an aftermarket replacement or know of a good source?
The guys at the local independant shop I use are good folks and suggested replacing the down tubes and adding an aftermarket hi-flo cat and just fabricating whatever pipe I needed to get back to my muffler.
I go the impression this would run both downtubes into a single pipe, use a single hi-flo converter and then go into the muffler.
This would require eliminating the second set of O2 sensors, but I believe that can be done fairly easily without casuing problems.
Any experience or advice?
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A good muffler shop should be able to fab up a set of pipes for 2 high flow cats very easily. I have seen high flow replacements for as cheap as $68 ea. They did not have the boss for the o2 sensor, but that can be added in the pipe, again, by a good shop. The ones with the boss for the sensor were about $150ea. I'll try to find the info again, and post it here.
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#8
Brian, I was thinking, I know it's dangerous. I believe your cats may have been damaged by burning coolant when you had your leak. My wife had an SUV by another manufacturer that blew a head gasket at 26k. Shortly after, the converter went bad, presumably from burning the coolant, as it was leaking internally.
#9
Thomas,
You might be right. The cat converter that went to rattling is on the same side the leak was on.
The rattle is no longer an issue really - at least for the time being. The rattle is so slight I rarely hear it.
Considering the cost to correct, I'm driving it as-is. It hasn't seemed to affect performance in any way. Acceleration is good. MPG is good.
I'll let this sleeping dog go undisturbed.
You might be right. The cat converter that went to rattling is on the same side the leak was on.
The rattle is no longer an issue really - at least for the time being. The rattle is so slight I rarely hear it.
Considering the cost to correct, I'm driving it as-is. It hasn't seemed to affect performance in any way. Acceleration is good. MPG is good.
I'll let this sleeping dog go undisturbed.
#11
I appear to be in the same boat with Brian (except my passenger side rattle is getting much worse each day). I thought it was one of the heat shields, but none of them are loose.
I have an E-Check due up in May, and im damn sure its gonna fail.
Would I still pass if I took Homer's advice? How do you dump the cats, run straights and fool the computer?
Or is SAR Roy's advice good too? Removing one cat will affect the computer as well?
Any and all advice appreciated!!
I have an E-Check due up in May, and im damn sure its gonna fail.
Would I still pass if I took Homer's advice? How do you dump the cats, run straights and fool the computer?
Or is SAR Roy's advice good too? Removing one cat will affect the computer as well?
Any and all advice appreciated!!
#12
Ron,
If you eliminate a cat converter (one or both), you can expect to fail your emissions test.
You can fool the OBD II computer so you don't get a check engine light, but you that won't fool the emissions testing equipment.
It analyzes what comes out the pipe and doesn't care what your computer is thinking.
But, you might not fail as-is. If the guts are still in the converter, just rattling around, it might still function well enough to get the job done.
If you eliminate a cat converter (one or both), you can expect to fail your emissions test.
You can fool the OBD II computer so you don't get a check engine light, but you that won't fool the emissions testing equipment.
It analyzes what comes out the pipe and doesn't care what your computer is thinking.
But, you might not fail as-is. If the guts are still in the converter, just rattling around, it might still function well enough to get the job done.
#14
Originally Posted by homer4.2
Cut those sons of you know what off!!!
What if its the rear passenger cat? I am not sure if its the one or not, but if so, isn't only good until the truck warms up? The front cats are for cold starts, and after its warm, the rear ones do not do much..Or am I inncorrect?