any one got any tips on making sure the heads seal good to the block on a 360? I'm using felpro gaskets etc, just looking for tips on where to put the RTV sealer.. Im bolting it all together this weekend, ive had the heads skimed to make sure everything's square etc..

anyone done it before that can stop me falling down the same pitfalls ?

cheers

EDGE

 

You don't need any goop between the heads and the block! Clean the surface thoroughly. I use brake cleaner, then simply install the head over the head gasket and torque to spec using the appropriate sequence for the head bolts.

I'll see if I can make a diagram using text....

top bolts: 9 5 1 3 7
bottom bolts: 10 6 2 4 8


I usually make 3 passes.
1st pass- tighten until it just hits the head
2nd pass- torque to 40-50 ft-lbs
3rd pass torque to spec (not sure waht it is for iron heads, probably near 100 ft-lbs)

 

If that diagram doesn't make sense, yo ucan get a free torque spec guid from fel-Pro at most retailers..It will have the torque specs and sequences..

 

thanks for the quick reply matey.

in the haynes manual it says to put some goop in specific places at the "junctions" of head and block and there's the most obscure little picture that makes no sense. I'll take what you said though i think and just make sure everything torqued correctly..

cheers

EDGE

 

You definitely need to be particular about where to put some RTV when sealing the intake manifold. There are some tricky spots where the head/intake/block meet, that deifinitely need RTV. It's also common to to put some RTV around the water ports on the intake manifold gaskets. But, I can't think of anything between the head and the block...

 

ahhhhhhhhh

right.... maybe thats what the picture is trying to show...

EDGE

 

Yep, no sealer needed on the heads. Sealant on the intake gaskets in the four corners AT the head junction.

--Mike

 

With FE heads you first tq them to 70ftlbs,then 80, then 90.

 

thanks guys, just been to the store to get some sealer and had another look at the heads and block... i think i see where it goes...

EDGE

 

I like to spray my head gaskets lightly with Permatex High Tack Gasket sealant. I use the aerosol spray, they make a version of the same stuff that is paint on. Lightly spraying the gasket will keep it in place while you struggle with that head. Its very sticky!

 

If your head dowels are in, the gasket shouldn't move around.

I know other motors aren't this way though.

 

I thought I was the only one. I spray my head gaskets with Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket. I dont like leaks.

 

I would say to use the spray if you aren't using the dowels. it is almost impossible to hold them in place without the dowels.

I recently picked up a 390 that was said to be blown. turns out it was just missing the dowels and the heads weren't torqued down sufficiently. I came out WAY ahead on this one.

I think that if tthe dowels are removed it provides better flow for the oil return. I may just be looking to far into it though. By all means correct me if I am wrong.

 

I also use the copper spray on the steel shim head gaskets. Be sure to correctly place the gaskets with the water passage to the rear on both sides. G.

 

I use the dowels too... I've never had a head gasket leak using my method, and even though its incredibly hard to get that gasket material off once you torque them down, I still think its worth it.

Do not spray the high tack or copper seal on the block or head itself, and only very lightly on the gasket, if it starts to run, go buy another gasket. Fel Pro perma torque gaskets do not need any sealant, and they only need to be torqued down once.