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spooky electrical fluctuation

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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 07:41 PM
  #1  
nastruk95's Avatar
nastruk95
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From: Nanticoke
spooky electrical fluctuation

I've been having problems with the voltmeter in the dash fluctuating every once in a while, sometimes at idle the needle will fall, and the lights dim. Sometimes just driving the lights will get real bright and then real dim with no effect on the voltmeter. Not too sure what the cause is, I've clean up all terminals and checked the grounds, I wasn't thinking the altenator because its so random. Anyone experience this or have any other kind of insight?
Thanks in advance
 
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 08:42 PM
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Tailhunter18
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could be the alternator definetely don't rule it out...how olds the battery....how low do the lights get...my truck does it a just a little bit till you step on the gas
 
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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I would suspect the alternator or battery also. It could also be the voltage Regulator or a loose or coroded battery lead. depending on where you live it may be possible to have your vehicle tested at a parts store for free. In some cases you might have to remove the alternator to bring inside for testing. I would try there first before you start throwing parts and money at it. Any chance the belt is slipping or severly worn?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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broken wire
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I'm with 92supercab on this one, after the alternator is removed, you could unscrew the 4 torx head screws that hold in the regulator and take a peek at the brushes, if they are bouncing off the rotor slip ring, slip rings should be polished copper with glossy black on them, if you see flat black on the rotor slip ring, then the brush is not making contact with the slip ring, it will give you higher voltage then lower voltage if they are bouncing or sticking, could be an intermittent in the regulator also.
Tailhunter, has your alternator been replaced, or is it still the original unit?
Hope this helps, Broken Wire
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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thanks for the replies, the battery is five years old, but has been starting fine, I wouldn't see it as a problem with intermitent voltage problems lasting about a minute.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:13 PM
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You should be able to get the battery and alternator/regulator tested at the same time. I would do this first, maybe call first and see who has the equipment so you don't drive allover. If it is the alternator or regulater and they are the original then I would definately replace them. The alternator should come with a new regulator. They are easy to replace. Also if you replace the Alternator be sure to replace the conector plug, most companies won't warrenty the alternator unless you can prove you replaced the plug. The plugs get old and can cause fires. Good Luck
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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broken wire
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That connector that is asked to be replaced, goes into the rectifier assembly, not the regulator. Broken wire
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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can you buy the voltage regulater seperate? Yeah, no kidding about the connector plug, When the old altenator went up on the highway, and a garaged replaced it, not more than 2 months later the wires were burned and fried that altenator and I couldn't get the warranty. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:47 PM
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I am not sure but I don't see why not. You could ask the parts guy. How old is the aternator any way? Is it still under warranty?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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A few things to check

1. Is the belt driving the alternator nice and tight. This is almost too obvious, but I thought I'd mention it.

2. Does the negative battery cable have a good ground? This is the end of the negative battery cable that is not on the battery.

3. You've definately got your money's worth out of the battery. Have it tested.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:55 PM
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broken wire
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From: York, PA
FYI,(Flaming alternators) the connecting plug for the rectifier is actually not the problem, the problem has been found flaming up the alternators is because the rebuilder did not use a specified tightness on the spade terminals from the stator to the rectifier fit. The connection inside the alternator becomes loose and high resistance takes place which heats up the connection inside the alternator, catches on fire inside the alternator at the rectifier and transfers out the black and orange wiring. burning up the plug. Ford did research on this, not a single unit that had been soldered or use of a new stator with new spade connections at rebuilding was found to be the cause of the fires. And the warranty was do you, the problem was the rebuilders. The voltage regulator can be purchased seperately. Broken Wire
 
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