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cleaning rusted grimey gritty parts /bolts

 
  #1  
Old 01-30-2005, 08:40 AM
sixgunkelly
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cleaning rusted grimey gritty parts /bolts

Hey All,I wanted to fill a horse tub up with something to let parts and reusable nuts/ bolts soak and get cleaned up.Anybody know of a good cheap detergent that'll get the job done???
 
  #2  
Old 01-30-2005, 09:40 AM
Greg 79 f150
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Originally Posted by sixgunkelly
Hey All,I wanted to fill a horse tub up with something to let parts and reusable nuts/ bolts soak and get cleaned up.Anybody know of a good cheap detergent that'll get the job done???

A horse tub ? man, your old truck must have a LOT of bolts in it The parts washer tub is a cool piece of equipment to have. It has a little pump in the tank that keeps mineral spirits recirculating over the rusty stuff. Maybe some others will chime in soon with better ideas , good luck and jmo
 

Last edited by Greg 79 f150; 01-30-2005 at 09:42 AM.
  #3  
Old 01-30-2005, 02:41 PM
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I just do them a little at a time. Once they are cleaned and maybe painted I put them in a ziploc bag and label it for later. I have a hard time remembering where they all come from otherwise.

I put them in a pan that was for draining oil into when you change it. Use a little varsol or other solvent and they come pretty clean.
 

Last edited by 460f250; 01-30-2005 at 02:44 PM.
  #4  
Old 01-30-2005, 05:39 PM
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<cr>
I have used paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) for years. It has a slow evaporation rate and although flammable, doesn't have the flashback problems related to other solvents.

I have seen ads for an orange cleaner (similiar to the orange hand cleaner I believe). It is nonflammable. I'm not sure now well it works.

I have seen some recommendations for Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda, lye, Drano, & etc.) for cutting grease. I'm sure it does cut the grease but I real concerns about the associate hazards and disposal issues. By the way, if you get sodium hydroxide on your skin, it will feel slippery. That's because it turning the oil in your skin and tissue into soap. True story !! Well, true chemistry anyways.
 

Last edited by Aekisu; 01-30-2005 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 01-30-2005, 08:43 PM
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coca cola and wire brush
 
  #6  
Old 02-01-2005, 10:44 AM
sixgunkelly
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Ok ,well i have plenty of mineral spirits and i have nuts/bolts all marked in bags for different parts so i'll try one bag at a time in a small bucket or something.I thought maybe i could delute some Zerorust in a horse troft and put parts like the battery tray and stuff like that in there.
 
  #7  
Old 02-01-2005, 11:25 AM
429 78 F100
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Question Cleaning larger pieces/Steering Box

Originally Posted by sixgunkelly
Ok ,well i have plenty of mineral spirits and i have nuts/bolts all marked in bags for different parts so i'll try one bag at a time in a small bucket or something.I thought maybe i could delute some Zerorust in a horse troft and put parts like the battery tray and stuff like that in there.
I would also like any recomendations for cleaning up the larger parts(inner fenders, front crossover support ect.). I have the front of the truck completly apart. The only thing left is the frame and cab/firewall. The only places where there is oil is around where the steering box was, where it ran down on the frame crossmember and around the king pins. I plan on painting afterward.
And just a little off this subject anyone ever change the seals in the steering box? Easy or hard? Special tools?
 
  #8  
Old 02-01-2005, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 429 78 F100
I would also like any recomendations for cleaning up the larger parts(inner fenders, front crossover support ect.). I have the front of the truck completly apart. The only thing left is the frame and cab/firewall. The only places where there is oil is around where the steering box was, where it ran down on the frame crossmember and around the king pins. I plan on painting afterward.
And just a little off this subject anyone ever change the seals in the steering box? Easy or hard? Special tools?
Wow, your in to a major restore it sounds like. I used simple green and purple power from my local auto store for my big cleaning. Both can be used in a pressure washer or scrub on with a brush and warm water , then rinse off . Might want to take your steering question to the " steering/ suspension " forum to get more replies on it. good luck on your truck
 
  #9  
Old 02-01-2005, 08:32 PM
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CLR takes the bolts down to bare steel. Taks 2-3 days. Castrol cleaner also works good for getting the grease off. -4speed
 
  #10  
Old 02-02-2005, 12:10 AM
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For the bigger stuff I'm fortunate to have access to a bead blaster. Works like a charm and doesn't take too much time. Pretty much ready for paint after that.
Other stuff I just scrape and scrub down with Varsol.
 
  #11  
Old 02-02-2005, 09:23 AM
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4Speed...Where did you get that castrol cleaner ,auto parts store???Thats the kinda stuff that was hope'n would be out there to use,Thanks,Sixgun
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-2005, 09:09 PM
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Walmart! It came in a gallon bottle and the bottle was purple. I used it soak my head bolts in after they were removed. After about 24hr soaking, I pulled the bolts out, and dried them with a paper towel and they were as good as new. -4speed
 
  #13  
Old 02-03-2005, 10:16 AM
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muriatic acid used to clean swimming pools will take the rust off down to the steel.works fast just rinse with water.
 
  #14  
Old 02-06-2005, 04:50 PM
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dont hold me respnosible for this if you blow something up cause its extremely flammable, but when i rebuilt my drum brakes, the small parts were filthy. i let them sit in a coffe can full of gas overnight, then took a toothbrush to them. worked pretty good but very dangerouls.
 
  #15  
Old 02-06-2005, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sandrailer99
muriatic acid used to clean swimming pools will take the rust off down to the steel.works fast just rinse with water.
DON'T use it on 'soft metels'
 
 


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