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Hey guys and gals,
Does any one out there have dimentions or pics they want to share to c-notch the rear of my 52 panel. It has a firebird sub frame and the rear end looks like its way up in the air. I have the rear from the firebird and want to move the perches so that I can put it over the springs. Thanks, John
i cnotched my 59 f-100, all i did was take some 2X3 tubing and pie cut it, squeeze it together, making sure that the edges of metal met up nicely, and then welded it. then i cut the top part off of my frame where the notch legs go down, welded as much as i possibly could, then cut underneath and finished welding.
i used the side of an anvil-the base to be more specific, and beat a piece of metal into shape, cut out the bottom, put in the curved plate, weld it to the side and bottom, cut out the notch, weld where needed, box it as you see fit....i would hav prefered to used some pipe but i couldn't find any big enough
I saw an article in Classic Trucks magazine several months ago regarding a frame that is produced by No Limit Engineering and they were retrofitting an even more aggressive notch onto the already notched frame. They basically cut two pieces of flat metal (looked like a 90 degree elbow 3" wide by 3/16" thick) and welded to each side of the frame rail. Then cut another piece to lay over the side pieces. Then they cut out the portion to be notched and welded a flat piece under the side pieces. You may be able to find the article on the Classic Trucks magazine web site.
I used this method to notch my 53 and it worked great and I am a self taught MIG welder of about 6 months practice.
I had the same problem with my truck after I put the 20" x 10" American Racing Hopsters on the back.
I like to answer stuff like this with a step by step guide.....I figure that's what I would want if I asked the question.
use 6" thick wall pipe......most agricultural or steel supply places should have an offcut
Take a 2" ring off the offcut and the cut it in half to form two C's
Squash them in a vice a bit, to spread the legs out
grind the inside corners to fit into the curved corner of the rail and then weld them into the rail
Box a foot either side. I prefer a stepped box, with the plate recessed in half an inch
Now slice out the C notch and run a weld around the exposed joint and grind it back
If you want to get tricky.........make the C notch so it extends an inch out from the rail at the top of the curve. Drill a hole in the top of this "tab".......you now have a spot for your bump stop to bolt........just use a small 3/4" high rubber bumper. The ones I use are from the upper front control arms of Mitsubishi comercial vehicles...I'm sure you can find something similar
that's a pretty good answer from halfdone(not that the rest are not) although I would add that it is a good idea to add a third boxing plate inside the frame. Let me try ti explain this if I can. After the lower "C" section has been tacked in, add a vertical stiffener 1 1/2 inch in from the edge of the rail, and extend it 6 inches forward and aft of the notch. When it is complete you will, in effect, have 3 vertical sections of frame rail through the c notch area. This will give added stiffness to the rail and it will also take away the tendency of the rail to twist in the notched area. Real important if you plan to put any serious power thru the rear. Hope this is clear and helps too. Fatfenders56
fatfenders must be building an indesructible truck lol good tip though, wish i would have done it. also you can weld in crossmember from one side to another made from some 2x3.