7.3 oil cooler O - ring replacement
#16
I have some pics of the repair I made on my '02 last year in my profile.
You can also search for this repair; there is a thread where you can see the write-up with details.
I pulled the power steering pump and alternator bracket to provide more access to those two front mounting bolts. I also replaced the power steering pump at that time.
Not a bad job, just messing and a little time consuming.
You can also search for this repair; there is a thread where you can see the write-up with details.
I pulled the power steering pump and alternator bracket to provide more access to those two front mounting bolts. I also replaced the power steering pump at that time.
Not a bad job, just messing and a little time consuming.
#17
oil pump
I find it easier to remove the entire cooler assembly togther. Put in a vise and remove the front and rear sections. Clean the cooler itself and housings. Install new o-rings with eng assembly lube (helps w/ installing the housings back on). Ive been lucky one time to have both housings go on w/o putting them in a press. Be careful you can break the aluminum housings.
#19
hold the center in your hand and RUBBER mallet to either end being carefull to go around the circumfrance.
better question is what is that metal barrel on the opposite side of 6881 with the spring? and after cleaning every thing and putting it back togeather the same way it came out, is it good to go(being as it came out?)
better question is what is that metal barrel on the opposite side of 6881 with the spring? and after cleaning every thing and putting it back togeather the same way it came out, is it good to go(being as it came out?)
#20
hey guys i just pulled mine and painted and reassembled, what im wondering is can you install the entire front rear and tube as one unit into the truck or do i have to take the front header off to get it in? waiting for paint to dry now then will install but would rather take front header back off if its not possible instead of scratching it all up find out it dont fit that way
as i took it out. rear seperate and unbolt front header later.
as i took it out. rear seperate and unbolt front header later.
#25
Just recently purchased a 2001 Super Duty, and I haven't looked really closely to see if the procedure would be the same for the Super Duty as it was for my OBS, but the OBS was fairly easy. I jacked up the front drivers side of the truck, removed the drivers side front wheel, and removed the plastic fender liner. That gave me really good access to the mounting bolts on the front oil cooler housing. You do need a long( like 18-24") extension for your ratchet though. Remove the cooler in one piece, disassemble, clean throughly, lube inside of both housings and the ends of the cooler, lube new O rings, reassemble the ends onto the cooler using a pipe clamp if necessary. Re install cooler onto engine. It was a relatively simple job going in through the wheel well. I would recommend getting the Orings and gaskets from Diesel Orings.com, as they are factory Ford parts, and A LOT cheaper than getting them from the dealer. I rebuilt my cooler because the coolant Orings were leaking and allowing oil to get in the coolant.
#26
It's actually easier on a Super Duty. There's more clearance for the front mount to fit between the block and cross member/motor mount.
#27
I finally got tired of fighting the front and decided to remove the PS pulley and loosen the bracket... that gave me plenty of room for a much easier install (you just have to make sure to get the pulley reinstalled in alignment with the other pulleys, though, or you'll eat a serp belt in a VERY short time).
#30
I finally got tired of fighting the front and decided to remove the PS pulley and loosen the bracket... that gave me plenty of room for a much easier install (you just have to make sure to get the pulley reinstalled in alignment with the other pulleys, though, or you'll eat a serp belt in a VERY short time).
Kyle